How to change brake rotors and pads?

[nle_bonqueque]

I have an automatic 2024 dark horse with the track handling pack, and the time has come after many days of track used to change the rotors and pads. I want to do them myself and have the parts sitting on my kitchen table, but I can’t find any instructions online on how to do it for the newer Mustangs. If anyone else knows a good YouTube video or a website that has a guide it would be greatly appreciated.

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[Wiley Marmot]

Might be of help to you;

https://www.powerstop.com/resource-category/how-tos/

If you don't already know them; you might want to find out the proper torque specs for all the fasteners involved.

Best of luck!

 

[Neggytive]

the hardest part is retracting the rear brake calipers into the service position

Try this method if you do not have a bi-directional scan tool



DO NOT FORGET TO TAKE IT OUT OF SERVICE MODE !!!!

 

[Neggytive]

I also suggest that on the front brakes you crack the bleeder and force the pads back with a screwdriver levering against the rotor and caliper.

This prevents any crap in the pucks from being forced back up the line, and I also suggest gravity bleeding them by just opening the bleeder a little when done and letting a little fluid drain out. then add fluid AS YOU GO from corner to corner

 

[garagely]

I have an automatic 2024 dark horse with the track handling pack, and the time has come after many days of track used to change the rotors and pads. I want to do them myself and have the parts sitting on my kitchen table, but I can’t find any instructions online on how to do it for the newer Mustangs. If anyone else knows a good YouTube video or a website that has a guide it would be greatly appreciated.

Curious if you'd share how many track days you had on the original equipment before needing to replace? Im impressed with how long my DH brakes have held up after continued track use but I bet i'm also not pushing the car as hard as some of the others are on this forum.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I'd also like to know two things. (1) what pads are you installing to replace the originals?

and

(2) would you please take some careful photographs of the back of the pads and post them here so that we can see the markings (front and rear, please)?

There is a lot of debate going on about the OEM manufacturer of the Dark Horse handling package brake pads.

 

[nle_bonqueque]

About 17-20 is when I change em out

 

[nle_bonqueque]

I’m putting on Glok r10 compound I got off of steeda w/the slotted rotors. And if I remember I will take those photos for you

 

[krisk]

I’m putting on Glok r10 compound I got off of steeda w/the slotted rotors. And if I remember I will take those photos for you

Did you get the G-LOC pads pre-bedded? If not, the R compound requires bedding for them to work properly. https://www.g-locbrakes.com/faqwd/whats-proper-way-bed-g-loc-r-series-compounds/

I order lots of stuff from Steeda, but the pads I ordered were not pre-bedded. Fortunately I checked with G-LOC before they shipped and had them pre-bed them, which is an extra fee. I now order all my pads from Optimum Performance Racing because they only sell the pre-bedded pads. https://www.opmustang.com/store/c47/Brakes.html#/

 

[krisk]

About 17-20 is when I change em out

You get 17-20 track days out of a set of brake pads? The max I can get is 6-7 days (12-14 hours on track) before they are under 3mm. My OE rotors lasted through three sets of pads before the heat checking was enough that I felt like it was time to replace them. One difference is I do have the GT one piece rotors, which are interchangeable with the DH two piece, but are a different part (significantly cheaper to replace).

 

[Skye]

The attached compliments the videos posted earlier.

 

[DarkHorsePremium]

Greetings,
One thing I didn't see mentioned here. I recommend you remove some of your brake fluid from the reservoir before compressing the pistons. When you push the pistons in, the brake fluid level increases in the reservoir. If the top is off it will dump in your engine bay. This will make your life a lot easier. I use a pad spreader. I never use a screwdriver even if I'm going to replace the rotor and pads. Poor man's method.... Some people use C-Clamps, rags and wood door frame shims. If you're not really careful though you'll scratch your calipers. Another item you absolutely need are bungee cords. These are used to hold the caliper up and out of the way. You can wrap it around the spring and then take the tension off of the brake line. Do not let your calipers hang on the brake lines .

If you're going to do a brake fluid replacement / flush, I use a Motiv bleeder. Another thing that's often overlooked and mentioned above.... A good OBD II reader that can cycle your ABS module. Old fluid will remain in the module if you can't electronically cycle it. I saw something about service mode (above) and don't know if that's just for the parking brake or if it can be used to cycle the ABS module as well. I've only had my Mustang for 2 months but I've been running big brakes for over a decade. Make sure you have a good supply of brake grease on hand, and brake kleen.

When you take the rotors off the hubs, make sure the hub surface is absolutely clean. Wire brush off any surface rust. Put a thin coating of brake grease on the hub or on the back of the disc hat. Don't get any on the lugs. Use brake kleen to clean all of the springs, pins, retention clips and surfaces. Clean brake components function better and remain quiet. You can put a thin film of brake grease on the back of of your pads. It won't hurt the piston boots and further ensures quiet brakes. If you don't put a film on the back plates, vibration will cause noise.

I'll probably think of some other stuff but these are some key things to look at. Don't scrimp, assemble all the tools you'll need. To get the pins out on the calipers you need a proper punch set. You can do a lot of things with the wrong tools, but you will mar your calipers. Just take your time. Hope this helps.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I never thought about using bungee cords before for a brake change! Great suggestion.

Can you post a picture of your pad spreading tool?

I am guilty of being in the screwdriver club.

 

[krisk]

I never thought about using bungee cords before for a brake change! Great suggestion.

Can you post a picture of your pad spreading tool?

I am guilty of being in the screwdriver club.

Here’s what I use. It works well on the Brembos. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...ryblawb0tmbsj2duxxaq9yp1hfhsvkvyaatznealw_wcb

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