The one they showed me at the shop was a 32"W x 12" H x 16" D. I'm thinking it was gonna take up most of my trunk
i’m running a 2300W system on my dark horse and haven’t noticed any strain
Damn...do you know if your alternator is 190 amps by chance as well? Or do you have any electrical upgrades done?
i haven’t measured but i’ve been running the system with no problems. you have an AGM battery so it should hold up pretty well to the abuse. i mean the stock system was 1100W too.
which stock system? the 9-speaker? or the B&O
I have the 6 lol. so its probably way less
AudioDesign in Jacksonville FL is around the corner from my house. They scanned my trunk with a 3D scanner. There is a little difference in the '24 with the fuel line, and why there is a little space in the original design pictured in his car. I also got the amp rack that they sell, and it fits in the '24. I will post in the next week when I get the subs in. I have Sundown SML 10" that are going into the new boxes. I wanted to save the trunk space and the passthrough to the back seats.
Can someone confirm that these colour codes are correct for the speakers?
Did you disable the fake exhaust sound (engine sound enhancement) that is pumped through the speakers?To say that the new B&O sound system in the 2024 Mustang GT Premium wasn’t very impressive would be an understatement. I was hoping that Ford stepped it up with all of the new electronic enhancements in the S650 but they did not. This system is basic to say the least and does little to excite you. No DSP and a basic 3 level eq for bass, mids, and highs. It would have been nice to have a separate adjustment for the subwoofer but it does not.
The only positive would be clarity. I did not hear any distortion and/or clipping at any volume. Again, the volume level does little to impress but it’s clear.
Metra, Scosche, PAC Audio, none of the manufactures are making wiring harnesses for the S650 yet. I am sure it won’t be long but as of this post they have nothing. Eventually I would like to replace all of the speakers in the S650 but for now I will just add subs and an amp.
For the most part it’s just like any S550 installation. A few of the trim panels are different but similar enough. One big difference, while not affecting the install, was no more battery box. The new battery is out in the open. See picture below:
I tapped into the factory subwoofer wiring for the input into the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter. This will provide the desired low frequencies for the subwoofer amp. The factory sub is a dual voice coil sub with what I thought was left and right inputs. After playing around with fading on the screen and testing with a meter, I discovered that both of the voice coils of the factory subwoofer are feed with the same mono input. What does that mean? It means that you only need to tap into one of the pairs and not both. Here are some pictures of the factory subwoofer.
The bass roll off in the factory B&O system starts at volume level 22. You will hear no increase in bass out of the subwoofer after volume level 22. That is where the AccuBASE feature of the AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter comes into play. It will fill in the subwoofer bass after volume level 22.
I did not reconnect the factory sub. I just bolted it back into the factory spot so that you wouldn’t see the ugly cut outs in the carpet.
I also placed sound deadening material all around the trunk area to avoid any unwanted rattles and improve overall sound quality.
Here is a picture of the install:
I wish I would have taken more pictures during the install but at the time I was not thinking about writing a thread. Overall, the install was pretty easy with only a few issues.
Important take aways:
- You only need to tap into 1 of the leads feeding the factory dual voice coil subwoofer. Tap into the wiring behind the factory plug so that you can actually remove the factory sub box without affecting your connection.
- Run power and ground just like any S550 install.
- Bass roll off is at volume level 22 on the B&O system.
- Despite all the added sound deadening material, the rear deck lid behind the back seat rattled really bad! I had to resort to stuffing the cavity with scrap pieces of felt to stop.
- The deck lid behind the rear seats is a pain to remove with little room to maneuver. You have to first remove the two side panels between the window and deck lid. The deck lid is slotted and 2 prongs from these panels go into the deck lid. The deck lid also has 3 blue retaining pins holding it to the sheet metal. One left, one right, and one center. Easy enough to access from below but tricky to squeeze and push through. You also need to remove and/or loosen the side panels beside the back seats. This will give you access to remove the seat belt strap from the plastic guides built into the rear deck lid. Once you have all this removed, you can finally slide out the rear deck lid (plastic piece). Be careful when removing the deck lid!!! It will want to catch and snag the wires feeding the rear defroster. I almost pulled mine loose from the window. You can actually remove the wires from the terminals on the window first if needed.
Here is a list of the material used in the install:
Skar Audio SKv2-1500.1D Amplifier
2 Rockford Fosgate P3D2-12 Subwoofers
AudioControl LC2i Pro Line Output Converter w/ Remote
Stinger SSCap2M 2 Farad Digital Capacitor
Stinger SPD512 PRO Series Power Distribution T-Block
Stinger 1/0 Gauge Amp Kit (SK4201)
Dynamat sound deadening material
XS Power D4700 Battery
Any chance you still have the model files for the printed parts?
