B&O 10" sub replacement?

[MCS]

No. But you can drill new holes rather than cutting the speaker if you prefer. Post #25 details possible speakers but none share the exact same holes. I drilled new holes which worked fine.

Thanks. I’ll check out that post. In fact I’m going to need to go through this thread more thoroughly to get a parts and tools shopping list together. Those connectors look like I’ll need a soldering gun lol

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[Gregs24]

Thanks. I’ll check out that post. In fact I’m going to need to go through this thread more thoroughly to get a parts and tools shopping list together. Those connectors look like I’ll need a soldering gun lol

You don't need the connectors, you can just chop off the plugs inside the sub enclosure and connect the wires directly to the sub. The Pioneer one is designed to take bare wires. The thread on the S550 forum referenced above has all the details

 

[Honor]

Can you confirm that my wiring is correct?

Yesterday, I've replaced subwoofer with TS-A250D4 with above wiring, but it is not worked.
(No sound, no vibration)
If above wiring is not correct, please let me know correct one, if you don't mind.
It is serious for me.

 

[Gregs24]

The black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive

Can you confirm that my wiring is correct?

Yesterday, I've replaced subwoofer with TS-A250D4 with above wiring, but it is not worked.
(No sound, no vibration)
If above wiring is not correct, please let me know correct one, if you don't mind.
It is serious for me.

Looks correct - you did reconnect the plug at the back of the sub when you put it back in?

 

[Honor]

The black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive

Looks correct - you did reconnect the plug at the back of the sub when you put it back in?

The black and purple wires are negative, the green and yellow wires are positive

Looks correct - you did reconnect the plug at the back of the sub when you put it back in?

Just before, it was solved.
The problem was the volume.
When I volumed up to mid. Sub woofoer started to vibrate.
Thank you for your kind reply. Thank you so much.

 

[VileKnight]

You don't need the connectors, you can just chop off the plugs inside the sub enclosure and connect the wires directly to the sub. The Pioneer one is designed to take bare wires. The thread on the S550 forum referenced above has all the details

Thank you for pointing this out. Just saved me a ton of headache. I've got the box pulled out and started the swap, then pulled out the redwolf wiring kit and was puzzled for a minute....

F me, it's been so long since I had my hands on installing audio in a car that I was stumped. Thank god for car forums!

 

[Cobrakit]

I opened up the holes in the Pioneer Speaker and used the orginal screws. Filled box with poly fil and used new connectors ($9). I reused the ring with double sided tape to cover screws and installed a new open grill ($18) with screws which also hold ring in. Speaker, connectors and grill came from Amazon, ~$100. Easy, no special tools. Just one way to do it!

You can also replace front center speaker, plug and play. Amazon Infinity REF-3032CFX. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8T66KB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Each of these are only marginal improvements, but noticeable, inexpensive and easy to install.

 

[Gry_6hst]

I just installed the DD Redline 10” sub and it sounds incredible versus the stock sub. Took about 45 minutes, added a bag of Acousta-Stuf polyfill and the 4 bar grate. Fits right in the enclosure with no trimming needed but I did grind down the 12 o’clock centering tab for an easier fit.

I stripped the stock connectors(you can get adapters), the black & purple are negative and yellow & green are positive. The DD has push connectors. Piece of cake. The stock amp drives the sub just fine.

https://www.ddaudio.life/shop/rl-sw...-subwoofer-eol-d4-14175?category=10#attr=5952

Where did you get the 4 bar grate?

 

[Cobrakit]

Amazon!

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