Winter storage

[GKman]

The manual says to move the car 25 feet every 15 days during storage and let it run for 15 minutes. Tough to do with an ice and snow covered driveway. Or if it's outside and covered (battery removed). Seems like overkill. Is all that necessary?
Comments?

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[Decio]

The manual says to move the car 25 feet every 15 days during storage and let it run for 15 minutes. Tough to do with an ice and snow covered driveway. Or if it's outside and covered (battery removed). Seems like overkill. Is all that necessary?
Comments?

That's what I used to do with my S197, but I'd take it around the block until my tires worked out their flat spots and get everything up to temp after sitting for a month. I've checked around, and the consensus with the mechanics I've spoken to is to leave it alone. Connect a battery tender and leave it until spring once you winterize it (search this forum for winterizing ideas).

I don't have a tender, so I'll charge it every month. I turned off every electronic feature possible to save the battery. Other than that, it will sit with its stabilized fuel under the cover until April. I no longer plan to start the engine and I'll deal with flat spots later. From all reports I received, starting it is more trouble than its worth. Anyone is free to pounce on this and correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[Bob M.]

My big concern is creating condensation issues. I put it away warm and dry. So, I do not start mine until April. Car cover, battery tender, fuel stabilizer, tires to 45 psi and steel wool in the quad exhaust.

 

[Skye]

Last year was the first with my car, the first Winter in storage.

Did virtually everything the OP did.

Last November, I'd just crossed 1000 mi / 1600 km.

- Full tank of fuel
- Stabil
- Full detailing, inside and out
- Inflated tires to 40 psi, 2.75 bar
- Did not set parking brake (stored inside garage)
- Placed wheel chocks, forwards and back
- Left in neutral (M6)
- Attached to tender
- Covered

During storage, I'd occasionally check under the hood and under the car, to ensure nothing was leaking, and to ensure a family of varmints hadn't moved in. Every once in a while, unlocked the car, to wake it up, then locked again. Otherwise, did nothing.

In April, I went to start the car; she started as if I'd turned the car off five minutes before. No stumble, hesitation, smoke or weird noises. Immediately got oil pressure and smooth idling.

Did not experience any flat spotting of tires, even temporarily.

Coming out of storage, I was down to about 27% on the Oil Life Monitor; this was the original, factory fill. I changed the oil after a few weeks. Oil analysis came back normal for that first season.

 

[JohnO]

I've stored my old Mustang for 22 Winters in my garage. I keep a battery maintainer on it, full tank of gas (no stabil), inflate tires to 50+ psi, don't start it all Winter unless we get a really warm day. If I do start it, I let it get to operating temp. I don't cover it because it only gets a little dusty and it's good to periodically check for rodents. I put dryer sheets inside on the floor and under the hood. I put mouse traps in the garage too. I also change the oil before storing.

 

[Vapor Blue GT]

I’ve winterized one car for 10 years. Do as the others say: change the oil, inflate tires to 40 lbs or more, battery tender, fuel stabilizer, and DO NOT start it at all. Moisture will become an issue inside the motor, exhaust, etc… and it’s also a good time to condition your leather seats and add ceramic coating or whatever protection you prefer. My car sat from October to April and I never had flat spots and my original battery lasted from 08-21.

 

[GKman]

Thanks. The manual made no sense.

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