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TSB updated to add the typewriter tick on the 2024 models

GeekGT5.0

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I have a crazy theory on this typewriter tick, hear me out. I've owned a bunch of mustangs, around 8 foxbodies, 1 2005, 1 2011, etc. I had two foxbodies that were full on track cars, one of them had a tick like this.

After it was all said and done, tear downs trying to find it, etc, one day we added a windage tray and it was gone. It had something to do with how the oil was moving / slapping around in the pan.

Ford must be using either some kind of thicker break-in oil in them new, or maybe a modifier, for break-in period (to first oil change) and when you go to the 5w-30, you get the tick. Mine has it clear as day after the first oil change, and kept it after 2nd oil change (i do 3000mile oil changes) and you only hear it after the engine is warmed up 150 °F+

I've heard ppl using 5w-40 and solving the problem, if that's the case, it's just thicker and not slapping in the pan in the same exact way 5w-30 does. There must be a small pocket or something the oil is hitting and it's making a tic, as it's slapped in there and the air gets trapped and pops (think bubble gum pop) the oil is kind of being shot into a corner and making a pop kind of sound and we hear it outside as a metallic tic. I believe the technical name for this is "oil film acoustics"

So, it might be one of those things you just have to deal with. I don't recommend running 5w-40 because of cold startup wear that would come with it. (yeah might be minimal, but still), but the cam phasers are designed around a specific oil viscosity. Changing that out of spec will change (abit somewhat small amount) how they function (for better or worse)

The only *real* legit - non - warranty killing thing you could do is use one of the ticker 5w-30's out there. Such as Amsoil Signature or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Both of them are on the "thicker" side of the spec.

So my question would be, is anyone using one of those two oils, and do you have the tic and/or did the tic change?

Just my 2cents. Haven't tested Amsoil yet, but might be on the next change.
 

robvas

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So, it might be one of those things you just have to deal with. I don't recommend running 5w-40 because of cold startup wear that would come with it. (yeah might be minimal, but still), but the cam phasers are designed around a specific oil viscosity. Changing that out of spec will change (abit somewhat small amount) how they function (for better or worse)
The cold startup difference between a 5-40 and 5-30? Huh?
 

GeekGT5.0

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The cold startup difference between a 5-40 and 5-30? Huh?
In the extremes of hotter and colder climates, it's not much but there is a difference. Depends more on what the tolerances it was made for. Yeah a thicker oil could cause more startup wear as it won't flow the same as a thinner oil. Now think of start/stop system with a thicker oil. Higher oil pressure means the oil isn't flowing as well, flowing though the oil filter who's bypass was made for X pressure on a system, so your bypass will engage quicker (unfiltered oil) Yeah it's not something I'd fight over lol, but yeah it's a thing. Believe it or not, the engineers who designed the engine, crank bearings, cam bearings, design around what oil they are going to use.
 


robvas

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In the extremes of hotter and colder climates, it's not much but there is a difference. Depends more on what the tolerances it was made for. Yeah a thicker oil could cause more startup wear as it won't flow the same as a thinner oil. Now think of start/stop system with a thicker oil. Higher oil pressure means the oil isn't flowing as well, flowing though the oil filter who's bypass was made for X pressure on a system, so your bypass will engage quicker (unfiltered oil) Yeah it's not something I'd fight over lol, but yeah it's a thing. Believe it or not, the engineers who designed the engine, crank bearings, cam bearings, design around what oil they are going to use.
You're babbling around the question I asked.

The cold viscosity of a 5W30 and 5W40 are both going be in the same range as they are both 5W.

The '40' doesn't come into play until the engine oil gets to operating temp.

So why are you saying:

I don't recommend running 5w-40 because of cold startup wear that would come with it. (yeah might be minimal, but still)
And what does this mean?
but the cam phasers are designed around a specific oil viscosity.
Which would be? Depending on the year and model of the car, the Coyote would have specificed 5W20 or 5W50
 
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GeekGT5.0

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You're babbling around the question I asked.

The cold viscosity of a 5W30 and 5W40 are both going be in the same range as they are both 5W.

The '40' doesn't come into play until the engine oil gets to operating temp.

So why are you saying:


And what does this mean?

Which would be? Depending on the year and model of the car, the Coyote would have specificed 5W20 or 5W50
Yes, I misspoke, I did not mean "cold" as in the first start of the day, I just meant startups and was thinking in start-stop use, thinner vs thicker oil. Too many thoughts was going on at once. Of course 5w-XX would be very near the same but not exactly the same, 5w20 at -30c will ever so slightly flow just a bit more than 5w40 but they both qualify for the 5W rating. But that wasn't my point...

I was much more thinking about the oil temp at 100c from 20 to 40 weight and was thinking of the pumping differences when starting and stopping that.

Which would be? Depending on the year and model of the car, the Coyote would have specificed 5W20 or 5W50
Yes, depending on the year, etc, etc, they would specify which oil to use.

My personal thought is, they design the engines around 30weight @ 100c (212F) oil temp. They use 20weight to get the economy out of them. They obviously use 40 weight for racing applications. But they do not do "racing applications" in -30c is the assumption i think they make, because you'd never want to use 5w-40 in -30c conditions LOL But the reality is, down here in Houston, you might want a slightly thicker oil, up in the northern states, you might want slightly thinner.

I mean bro, Im just one old car guy yappin' on a forum.
 

GeekGT5.0

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I changed my factory oil with Castrol 0W30 and no BBQ tick. I was afraid to have it after reading so many reviews, but mine never got it.
LOL it's like an STD because everyone sleeping with that one hot girl next door. :cwl: :cwl: :cwl:
 

JPGC_S650

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I have a crazy theory on this typewriter tick, hear me out. I've owned a bunch of mustangs, around 8 foxbodies, 1 2005, 1 2011, etc. I had two foxbodies that were full on track cars, one of them had a tick like this.

After it was all said and done, tear downs trying to find it, etc, one day we added a windage tray and it was gone. It had something to do with how the oil was moving / slapping around in the pan.

Ford must be using either some kind of thicker break-in oil in them new, or maybe a modifier, for break-in period (to first oil change) and when you go to the 5w-30, you get the tick. Mine has it clear as day after the first oil change, and kept it after 2nd oil change (i do 3000mile oil changes) and you only hear it after the engine is warmed up 150 °F+

I've heard ppl using 5w-40 and solving the problem, if that's the case, it's just thicker and not slapping in the pan in the same exact way 5w-30 does. There must be a small pocket or something the oil is hitting and it's making a tic, as it's slapped in there and the air gets trapped and pops (think bubble gum pop) the oil is kind of being shot into a corner and making a pop kind of sound and we hear it outside as a metallic tic. I believe the technical name for this is "oil film acoustics"

So, it might be one of those things you just have to deal with. I don't recommend running 5w-40 because of cold startup wear that would come with it. (yeah might be minimal, but still), but the cam phasers are designed around a specific oil viscosity. Changing that out of spec will change (abit somewhat small amount) how they function (for better or worse)

The only *real* legit - non - warranty killing thing you could do is use one of the ticker 5w-30's out there. Such as Amsoil Signature or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Both of them are on the "thicker" side of the spec.

So my question would be, is anyone using one of those two oils, and do you have the tic and/or did the tic change?

Just my 2cents. Haven't tested Amsoil yet, but might be on the next change.
I use Amsoil Signature Series 5w-30 and I can report that it still does the typewriter tick with it. I have tested many motor oils over the years with every Coyote I have had and oil brand did not matter. It does only do it when the car is at operating temp and typically right after I've been aggressively driving or cruising the interstate at higher speeds for a while. Still never had any issues because of it. Doesn't bother me personally any more.
 

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We continue to read these tick threads but we never hear of anyone having to have repair work done on their engine because of it. I have two cars garaged right now, one with direct and port injection (Mustang) and one with port injection. I can hear the injectors in both of them. Oh well. They both run good so that's good enough.
 

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So Ford can't tell you what the noise is or what makes it. However their sure it does not cause any permanent damage. It's oxymoronic.
Ford clearly do know what causes it, they know it causes no damage and they have publicly declared it via the TSB.

Because they have not told you the details doesn't mean they don't know.
 

Paul's stable

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Ford clearly do know what causes it, they know it causes no damage and they have publicly declared it via the TSB.

Because they have not told you the details doesn't mean they don't know.
Wow how gullible are you? Oh I guess where your from you trust everybody. Look at your immigration department.
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