Doug Watson
Well-Known Member
I've got the Steeda jacking rails on my DH and had them on the M1, love them.
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Right on, thank you!All I purchased for the mustang were the pinch weld blocks from quick jack. They have slots that fit perfectly under the mustang lift points. I ordered it all from Home Depot.
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Great choiceI've got the Steeda jacking rails on my DH and had them on the M1, love them.
Are the jacking points the knife edge part or inboard on the flat spot as far as factory jacking points are concerned
I purchased AGM jack rods. They lock a floor jack to act like a backstage. I use them in pairs with 2 floor jacks to lift front/rear or side, depending on the work. Wish I had a lift, but jack rods are great.My question is, so if you jack up with a floor jack, from the correct lift points, where do you place the jack stand?
Sorry to resurrect an old thread. I need to jack up the rear off the car (DH) to work on some LED lights. I'm seeing the cut outs with the arrows. No problem jacking up the car there. But where to place the floor stands? It doesn't fit next to jack. From what I gathered is to jack up the car near this area (preferably using Rubber Slotted Frame Rail Protectors) and then place the floor stand where the 'arrow' is - the jack point). Or do I need to do the opposite: use the jack point for the actually jacking up off the car, and then place the floor stand with the protectors near this?There are little cut outs in the plastic side panels under the sides near each jack point for jack stands. The jack points have little arrows in the plastic panels. Jack stands go in near the jack lift points .
You are still talking about the protection for the pinch welds (and no issues there), but my question was where to place the jack and the floor stands?For my fellow OCD perfectionists, I've found that many rubber jack pads are not deep/tall enough to fully prevent pinch welds from cutting through (and contacting the metal of the jack cup, thus scratching the paint on the bottom of your pinch welds). Same thing with those metal pinch weld adapters--those often have an exposed metal piece at the bottom of the channel (to secure the nylon guard that runs through the channel) which scratches your pinch welds.
I wonder why manufacturers don't just make them slightly taller/deeper, and I suspect it's because if they made them taller, there might be too much side-to-side flexion and the item could slip off the pinch weld.
I have now ordered polyethylene jack pads from Amazon. They are harder than rubber so should not get cut through, but still soft enough to not damage pinch welds. We'll see if that actually works.
I wish Ford made a simple lifting solution for DIYers, or even plastic lift points that could be replaced if/when worn out (like BMWs and Teslas).