Explain the 1,000 mi oil change to me

[SAL-E]

My Ecboost doesn’t have that many screws. Has like 6-8 with two push in clips.

Interesting... my Ecoboost has all 15 plus the 4 clips.

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[24BlueStang]

Interesting... my Ecoboost has all 15 plus the 4 clips.

That’s crazy

 

[Paul's stable]

I feel the 1,000 mi / 1,600 km point is something some (many?) of us have gravitated to over time. The origins of that milestone come from Ford's statements in the Owners Manual related to the car's overall break-in period.

Should you change at the reference point above? This topic and oil type is something you're going to get a wide variety of feedback on. Above all, read Ford's guidance in the manual; this is your baseline. If you'd like to do better still, as a personal preference, do so.

I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km for a few broad reasons:

- From machining and assembly, there's "junk" in the engine and now oil filter

- From the wear of break-in itself, the internals of the engine have shed material

- The mileage is a waypoint in the car's life and wear; it's something of a freshening up

- IMO, the factory fill is not what you get off the shelf, but shelf and break-in additives, both of which are now spent. I have not documented proof of this. Just a belief. See Motorcraft XL-17

- From first light, it will take several oil changes (2 to 3) to stabilize what you ultimately run on. For example, from factory fill to Motorcraft Synthetic, the overall effect will take a few changes. When you change the oil, close to a quart (and other junk), is still in the galleys, maybe a cooler. It'll take a bit of time to work out. So, one change at 1,000 / 1,600, then one or two more later, you see nothing but the oil you're consistently using, and it's working properties

But do you have to? No. Follow the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) and the Owner Manual. There is no requirement you change the oil at the point mentioned. If you'd like to as a step towards goodness, great. If not, follow Ford's plan. Millions of vehicles have done nothing more than follow the manual and they are still going strong.

Ford Dealers will use Motorcraft 5W-30, blend oil, unless the manual specifies something else. This oil is a mix of synthetic and dino. Dealers often give the option of using a Motorcraft synthetic, which is fine. Using either oil and keeping records will maintain the factory warranty.

If you'd like to use aftermarket oil and filter, you can do that to. Use items that meet or exceed Ford's guidance in the manual. Document with a receipt or photo. Update in Ford Pass App. Something. Anything that will confirm later (if needed) you have been changing the oil, when and what you used. Your warranty will be maintained.

Should you use a full synthetic? I like using synthetics over dino or blends for one reason: they are designed as an engine oil. Dino can and does work fine. But in extreme tolerances and conditions, synthetics can work better. Further, synthetics are detergent, good at keeping the insides of the engine clean over the long term.

Again, you'll get a lot of feedback on this. In summary, I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km, am using full synthetic, 5W-30 and am now following the OLM and Owner Manual.

This broad topic also leans into the trans and diff; they've been breaking in to. Some change their fluids quite early. That's cool. But IMO, these devices do not see wash from fuel, condensation or encounter the same temperatures and stresses as the engine does. Further, many items these days, many manufacturers, use synthetics or long-life oil from the start. I'll be changing mine early (still don't know at what point), but not way early. As a reference, my truck says I never have to change the Manual Transmission (MT) oil, except under certain conditions. I change it every 30,000 mi / 48,000 km anyway. The Owner Manual is the baseline for when to change and what to use.

Finally, if you'd like to know how things are going, do an oil analysis at that first change (and others if you like). Most of us use Blackstone's service. You can get a sample kit for free and stow it for now. Analysis is like $30-35. Some of us get the test done. It's nice to know. And when/if the car is ever sold, it will give confidence to the buyer things are well.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

Nice write up very thorough. The only thing I would mention and it's just my opinion. I use dino oil up to around 5000 miles it helps the rings to seat with the cylinders walls. Then I switch to full synthetic the reason I don't run it at first is it works to good and don't let the rings and cylinder walls not break in properly. But like I said it's just the opinion of an old man.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

Yup, unfortunately if someone does your oil change make sure they put it back on correctly.

Funny you should mention that! On one oil/filter change on the Focus RS I traded in on my GT; never mind the tech putting all the under tray screws and fasteners back in; he left the freakin under tray off!

Seems like he would have noticed he had extra parts left over after the jub. Just sayin...................

 

[SAL-E]

Funny you should mention that! On one oil/filter change on the Focus RS I traded in on my GT; never mind the tech putting all the under tray screws and fasteners back in; he left the freakin under tray off!

Seems like he would have noticed he had extra parts left over after the jub. Just sayin...................

Was this at a dealer?

 

[dusman59]

If I payed with a credit card I would have rejected the charge. I also would get the management involved and get my parts left off. I would never go back to that establishment again. I will be doing my first oil change myself and after that the dealer. I will let them know to do it right. I expect people to do their job right.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

Was this at a dealer?

At my dealer or at Livernois Motorsports (I was in for some minor work and a 93 O dyno tune).

Obviously; the undertray is "out of sight.................". Didn't discover it was gone until a couple months after the fact when my bud and I ran the RS up on his hoist to replace the under tray with an aluminum skid plate.

I'd had the RS in to both service providers within a week of each other; no way to tell "who done it". The under tray was 6 years old and in admittedly **** state (why I was replacing it with an aluminum unit); I had/have a good relationship with both providers; so no sense in making a stink and corroding the relationships over small potatoes. Whoever realized they had left over parts was likely a low ranking staff member who ditched the evidence fairly quickly leaving superiors in the dark as to the "minor oversight".

I did pay quite a bit "more attention" to the RS's condition after subsequent services!

 

[LaMakina2]

I feel the 1,000 mi / 1,600 km point is something some (many?) of us have gravitated to over time. The origins of that milestone come from Ford's statements in the Owners Manual related to the car's overall break-in period.

Should you change at the reference point above? This topic and oil type is something you're going to get a wide variety of feedback on. Above all, read Ford's guidance in the manual; this is your baseline. If you'd like to do better still, as a personal preference, do so.

I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km for a few broad reasons:

- From machining and assembly, there's "junk" in the engine and now oil filter

- From the wear of break-in itself, the internals of the engine have shed material

- The mileage is a waypoint in the car's life and wear; it's something of a freshening up

- IMO, the factory fill is not what you get off the shelf, but shelf and break-in additives, both of which are now spent. I have not documented proof of this. Just a belief. See Motorcraft XL-17

- From first light, it will take several oil changes (2 to 3) to stabilize what you ultimately run on. For example, from factory fill to Motorcraft Synthetic, the overall effect will take a few changes. When you change the oil, close to a quart (and other junk), is still in the galleys, maybe a cooler. It'll take a bit of time to work out. So, one change at 1,000 / 1,600, then one or two more later, you see nothing but the oil you're consistently using, and it's working properties

But do you have to? No. Follow the Oil Life Monitor (OLM) and the Owner Manual. There is no requirement you change the oil at the point mentioned. If you'd like to as a step towards goodness, great. If not, follow Ford's plan. Millions of vehicles have done nothing more than follow the manual and they are still going strong.

Ford Dealers will use Motorcraft 5W-30, blend oil, unless the manual specifies something else. This oil is a mix of synthetic and dino. Dealers often give the option of using a Motorcraft synthetic, which is fine. Using either oil and keeping records will maintain the factory warranty.

If you'd like to use aftermarket oil and filter, you can do that to. Use items that meet or exceed Ford's guidance in the manual. Document with a receipt or photo. Update in Ford Pass App. Something. Anything that will confirm later (if needed) you have been changing the oil, when and what you used. Your warranty will be maintained.

Should you use a full synthetic? I like using synthetics over dino or blends for one reason: they are designed as an engine oil. Dino can and does work fine. But in extreme tolerances and conditions, synthetics can work better. Further, synthetics are detergent, good at keeping the insides of the engine clean over the long term.

Again, you'll get a lot of feedback on this. In summary, I changed mine at 1,000 mi / 1,600 km, am using full synthetic, 5W-30 and am now following the OLM and Owner Manual.

This broad topic also leans into the trans and diff; they've been breaking in to. Some change their fluids quite early. That's cool. But IMO, these devices do not see wash from fuel, condensation or encounter the same temperatures and stresses as the engine does. Further, many items these days, many manufacturers, use synthetics or long-life oil from the start. I'll be changing mine early (still don't know at what point), but not way early. As a reference, my truck says I never have to change the Manual Transmission (MT) oil, except under certain conditions. I change it every 30,000 mi / 48,000 km anyway. The Owner Manual is the baseline for when to change and what to use.

Finally, if you'd like to know how things are going, do an oil analysis at that first change (and others if you like). Most of us use Blackstone's service. You can get a sample kit for free and stow it for now. Analysis is like $30-35. Some of us get the test done. It's nice to know. And when/if the car is ever sold, it will give confidence to the buyer things are well.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

I took my S650 for its 1000 mile oil change and the service manager laughed at me saying that he doesn’t believe that you guys are still doing this. Meaning me. He stated that Ford uses 100% synthetic oil on these cars and don’t need to go through the break in period any longer. This was true in the yester years when Ford was putting in break in oil. He said yes that oil had to be removed after 1000 miles and flushed. However in today’s vehicles the engines don’t need this. However it’s purely a preference for today’s enthusiasts. Still applying the old school thought. I told him thank you for the history lesson but I’m old school. lol.

 

[24BlueStang]

I took my S650 for its 1000 mile oil change and the service manager laughed at me saying that he doesn’t believe that you guys are still doing this. Meaning me. He stated that Ford uses 100% synthetic oil on these cars and don’t need to go through the break in period any longer. This was true in the yester years when Ford was putting in break in oil. He said yes that oil had to be removed after 1000 miles and flushed. However in today’s vehicles the engines don’t need this. However it’s purely a preference for today’s enthusiasts. Still applying the old school thought. I told him thank you for the history lesson but I’m old school. lol.

Except that the motorcraft oil isn’t 100% synthetic. Very few oils out there actually 100% synthetic. They’re usually like 10%-15% synthetic and that’s what they can pass as 100% synthetic according to what I’ve read up on

 

[steveo1960]

I took my S650 for its 1000 mile oil change and the service manager laughed at me saying that he doesn’t believe that you guys are still doing this. Meaning me. He stated that Ford uses 100% synthetic oil on these cars and don’t need to go through the break in period any longer. This was true in the yester years when Ford was putting in break in oil. He said yes that oil had to be removed after 1000 miles and flushed. However in today’s vehicles the engines don’t need this. However it’s purely a preference for today’s enthusiasts. Still applying the old school thought. I told him thank you for the history lesson but I’m old school. lol.

The way I see it the case for changing the factory fill is more due to flushing the normal manufacturing debris and engine break in debris trapped in the filter out of the system.
I'm at 1500 miles and plan to change before 2000 with PUP and a Motorcraft filter.
PUP seems to be well regarded from what I have been reading.

As a side note wifey's 2024 VW Atlas recommends 10k for the first oil change !!! There is no way I would EVER wait that long. Especially on a 4cyl turbo motor.

I'll send a sample to Blackstone Labs on both in order to get a benchmark.

 

[ZL1_1LE]

Hey everyone, so throughout the various oil threads (not my intention to open a can of worms) I noticed alot of people go with Penzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP). When reading the back of the label, it doesn't say it meets Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 as stated in the owners manual. I just ordered this for my 24 GT and 24 Eco based of the recommendation of this site, but very hesitant of putting it in my vehicles. Is it good to use or return and buy something that does meet the Ford specs?

 

[robvas]

Can't see why it would hurt

 

[steveo1960]

Hey everyone, so throughout the various oil threads (not my intention to open a can of worms) I noticed alot of people go with Penzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP). When reading the back of the label, it doesn't say it meets Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 as stated in the owners manual. I just ordered this for my 24 GT and 24 Eco based of the recommendation of this site, but very hesitant of putting it in my vehicles. Is it good to use or return and buy something that does meet the Ford specs?

I was originally going with PUP Full Synthetic, but since I'm under Warranty. I'm going to stick with an oil that meets the ford spec to the letter not that I think this makes a difference however it can't hurt. . At least from what I've read.. Here is decent thread on the subject. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2024-coyote-oil-selection.382340/

 

[ZL1_1LE]

I came across that thread as well a few days ago. I think I will just send the PUP back and will go with something that is approved.

I was originally going with PUP Full Synthetic, but since I'm under Warranty. I'm going to stick with an oil that meets the ford spec to the letter not that I think this makes a difference however it can't hurt. . At least from what I've read.. Here is decent thread on the subject. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2024-coyote-oil-selection.382340/

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