Break in period?

[Frogdog1]

Yeah, I broke in my driver's seat wtih my smart-ass......

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[LouG]

Interesting read for those who want to understand more about breaking in an engine:

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Sorry, but that is bullshit. Fine if you ditch a car every three or four years, the next owner ( sucker) gets the downside.
All that he's doing is getting quickly what 5000kms normal running will get you, but shortening engine life by doing so. Racing teams break in engines with that method because they need to get the car ready for the next race and can't run the engine for a long period. In addition, they know they will be rebuilding the engine sooner anyway.
I've sold two cars to friends now, and felt really good that they were getting a car that's been treated properly.

 

[Katastrophe]

Sorry, but that is bullshit. Fine if you ditch a car every three or four years, the next owner ( sucker) gets the downside.
All that he's doing is getting quickly what 5000kms normal running will get you, but shortening engine life by doing so. Racing teams break in engines with that method because they need to get the car ready for the next race and can't run the engine for a long period. In addition, they know they will be rebuilding the engine sooner anyway.
I've sold two cars to friends now, and felt really good that they were getting a car that's been treated properly.

I've been doing this for 25+ years. My other family members/friends have been doing the same since the 60's. Minivans, wagons, cars, motorcycles, you name it. Many have gone up to almost a half-million kilometers, with no rebuilds. We also believe in the "Italian tune up" once in awhile, too.

Anyway, I suppose we'll just have to agree to disagree mate!

EDIT: For the sake of clarity, there is a difference between breaking an engine in methodically with some gusto vs beating the piss out of it.

 

[Frogdog1]

It always not quite amazes me that a lot of people equate a kilometer with a mile. Just for the record, they aren't the same thing. And now we know.......

 

[LouG]

I think we do disagree.
I don't think the talented people who design a mass production engine that makes 100hp per litre, spins to 7.5k or more, and then put a 5 year warranty on it, would not know the best way to break in that engine so as to ensure long reliable life and not have to pay out on warranty claims.
I think I may have mentioned this on another thread, but there was a test on 2 new Honda 250 singles where one had a hard break in, the other by the book.
When they were inspected, wear on bearings, pistons, etc was the same in both.
But, the ring gap on the abused engine was three times that of the other one.
That is premature wear and will cause earlier compression loss and reduced oil control.
So, if people are aware of this and go ahead breaking in however they want, that's fine. It's their choice. But guys that post vids like that one purporting to be experts, without warning of possible downsides, piss me off immensely.
Rant over

 

[robvas]

Did you watch either of those video and listen to what they had to say?

Also, testing a Honda 250 single isn't real relevant to a Mustang V8

 

[glenng6]

Maybe use the paddle shifters so you can vary RPM bit more than autoshift, while on highway? Or mqybe just try to avoid long constant RPM? I dont think it said to avoid the highway but just not a constant RPM for long periods. Im sure your car will be fine. Enjoy!

What you said is great advice. I do the same with all new cars. And no cruise control for 1K miles. Been doing this since the first new car I bought in 1970! Glenn

 

[LouG]

Did you watch either of those video and listen to what they had to say?

Also, testing a Honda 250 single isn't real relevant to a Mustang V8

I did.
The Honda is a 4 stroke ICE engine, runs on the same principles and, depending on model makes 112 to 164hp per litre. A pretty good example to use.

 

[Frogdog1]

I think we do disagree.
I don't think the talented people who design a mass production engine that makes 100hp per litre, spins to 7.5k or more, and then put a 5 year warranty on it, would not know the best way to break in that engine so as to ensure long reliable life and not have to pay out on warranty claims.
I think I may have mentioned this on another thread, but there was a test on 2 new Honda 250 singles where one had a hard break in, the other by the book.
When they were inspected, wear on bearings, pistons, etc was the same in both.
But, the ring gap on the abused engine was three times that of the other one.
That is premature wear and will cause earlier compression loss and reduced oil control.
So, if people are aware of this and go ahead breaking in however they want, that's fine. It's their choice. But guys that post vids like that one purporting to be experts, without warning of possible downsides, piss me off immensely.
Rant over

^^^^This.

 

[robvas]

I did.
The Honda is a 4 stroke ICE engine, runs on the same principles and, depending on model makes 112 to 164hp per litre. A pretty good example to use.

Did they check the ring gap before the test? No reason why it would open up so much

 

[MustangNoob]

Regarding what occurs after engine assembly, it's my understanding that, while they physically spin the engine to confirm crank, valve and cam movement, it's not on a dyno. They do not actually fire the engine up and run it. To do so would involve fluids, fuel, time, labor, etc. From these "spin" tests, they can confirm from the effort made and feedback received if things are assembled correctly. It's a rough test, to clear the obvious while comparing against a baseline of an engine they knew was assembled correctly.

Edit,

Later, just before leaving the line, the car is fired up and tested. But this is not a formal dyno or break-in. They hock up, start the engine, run through the gears, check lights, computer feedback, etc. It's a detailed test of the car as a whole, but it is not performance-minded. Just detailed diagnostics.

YMMV.

Regarding break-in, the following is the process I followed. Afterwards, I cite an oil analysis thread, one recent post I made showing the changes in engine and oil properties. Finally, I'm attaching an article on cylinder wall glazing and why it's important to load the engine in a given manner.

Again, YMMV.

This topic tends to bring a wide variation of feedback. Below is the path I took: what I considered as a progressive break-in, increasing the engine RPM and load with each drive in the first several uses.

Information below is from posts I've made previously.

Read the Owner's Manual regarding initial driving and break-in. There are general guidelines and references you can be aware of and follow.

Don't be surprised if, on the initial drive home from the dealer, you smell a burning smell or smells. Countless people have put the car together and checked it out. There's oil residue and handprints everywhere. These smells should only be present during the first drive, once getting up to full operating temperature.

Before attempting any break-in driving, spirited driving, something which will stress the components, always, always, always bring the engine up to full operating temperature. DO NOT perform ANY stress processes until things are up to temp (185F / 85C).

It is generally a good idea to avoid highway driving, continuous RPM driving, if possible, throughout break-in. If you will be driving the highway, do not use cruise control and vary the RPMs often. Consider taking an off ramp, then getting back on. Something which will vary the RPMs and loads.

DO NOT drive the car at all unless you are going to reach full operating temps. If it will be a short run, drive more than expected to bring the car up to temps. It's actually better to let the car sit versus a short, non-operating temp drive.

DO NOT "lug" the engine, driving the car in a high-load, low-RPM scenario. If you need to downshift, do so.

Something I've yet to do is shock the drivetrain. For example, I've yet to "stomp" on the throttle. I've yet to dump the clutch and launch. Any stressing I've done has always been from a rolling position, being already in motion and being aggressive, but not beating on, the throttle.

I'm a low mileage driver, with the car in Winter storage throughout the season. I'll be changing the oil once a year. The Owner's Manual will explain oil changes and the Oil Life Monitor.

Many perform their initial oil change at the 1000 mi / 1600 km mark. I've come to the belief I'm better off waiting. I feel the initial fill at the factory is not "regular" off-the-shelf oil, but a special fill, to help with break-in. There's also assembly lube. I'm at 34% on the oil life monitor. I'm going to wait another month or two, then change to full synthetic. (Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, 5W30).

Regardless how you drive, the Oil Life Monitor counts down 1.92% each week. It will reach 0% at the one year mark, if not sooner, no matter how you drive.

My comments on the factory oil are my opinion, a belief. I have no proof. Many do and without issue change their oil at 1000 mi /1600 km and are just fine. As you'll see with oil viscosity debates, it's a personal thing.

At oil change, consider performing an engine oil analysis. I'll be using BlackStone. I want to perform an oil analysis because I'm curious, but also to document a baseline.

The 2022 manual lists the overall break-in of 1000 miles / 1600 km and offers advice and guidance. It also states oil consumption might not stabilize until 3000 mi / 4828 km.

At one extreme, people baby their cars. At the other, they drive it like they stole it the second they have the keys. You'll find at least one video on YouTube of someone on a dyno hitting the rev limiter, with like 12 miles on the car. You'll know you're on the limit when the dash lighting turns red. LOL.

I took the middle route, and performed what I considered at progressive break in. Each drive, within the first 100 mi / 160 km especially, I increased my highest shift point, to help ensure I was seating the piston rings.

First drive, I was just getting home. I think the highest I rev'd was 3000 - 3500. All I was interest in was getting the car home safe, get used to the car. Ten miles, or 16 clicks.

Second drive, I was consistently hitting 4000 RPM. Not every time I shifted, but I made a point to do that several times.

Third drive, 4500. Same methodology.

Fourth drive, getting to 100 mi / 160 km, I hit 5000 RPM, several times.

From the fourth drive until now, I always shift at least once, often several times, from 5000 to now 6000 rpm. I intend to continue do so.

I would also and continue to randomly park the car and shutdown the engine for a few minutes. The engine gets hotter by sitting still, before it cools off. I then take off and continue the drive, not stressing the car again until temps have returned to normal.

Throughout break-in, engine deceleration is as important as acceleration. I have two advantages, with a MT and hilly/mountainous terrain. I've gotten into the habit of accelerating to 5000 RPM in low gear, keeping it there for about one second, and then slowly backing off the accelerator before continuing. I'm decelerating the engine, letting the engine load slow the car. I'll do the same, at lower RPM, simply from driving around the local area.

Throughout the process and especially the first several drives, check for fluid leaks and the oil level. Oil is denser when cold, with the dipstick easier to read. Oil expands when hot. The dipstick will read different between cold and hot. I always did a quick walk around when returning, checking under hood and underneath. While I checked the engine oil each time, everything else was a visual without opening anything.

However checking oil, check in a consistent manner, always in the same place, hot or cold.

So far so good. I've had zero issues of any kind.

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If you have an oil analysis performed, this is a thread with first-time oil change feedback, what to expect in the report.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/first-oil-change-and-analysis.132878/page-2#post-4125644

I've used Blackstone several times; they're great.

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/

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We often focus on the topics of load, piston rings, glazing and wear. The following article explains in detail what happens for cylinder wall glazing to occur.

https://www.auroragenerators.com/post/diesel-engine-glazing-carbon-buildup

That’s exactly what i’m doing with my new engine. It’s an auto though. I use the shifters . Past the first 50 miles, 4000-4500 is my limit now. Once I hit 150-200 miles I will increase it to 5k or so…all accelerations are quite linear, nothing aggressive.

 

[kinelisch]

I drove mine hard since new and never had a problem. 2 years ago and 12,000 miles still great!

 

[Dark Sprite]

I enjoyed this rather provocative message just as I was entering a tunnel and trying to explain to my son that I’m not reviving it over 4k just yet!

Shortly after I realised it was just displaying the song titles there

 

[LouG]

Did they check the ring gap before the test? No reason why it would open up so much

The engines were both new and unrun. We'll have to assume Honda built them correctly.
The logical conclusion was that the hard break in caused the rapid wear, there ws no other reason given the fact they were run together.
The guys who did the video glossed over the ring gap difference. They were trying to justify the hard break in theory.
But many people picked up on it and commented.
But, in the end people can do what they want, it's just best to do it in an informed way.

 

[robvas]

The engines were both new and unrun. We'll have to assume Honda built them correctly.
The logical conclusion was that the hard break in caused the rapid wear, there ws no other reason given the fact they were run together.
The guys who did the video glossed over the ring gap difference. They were trying to justify the hard break in theory.
But many people picked up on it and commented.
But, in the end people can do what they want, it's just best to do it in an informed way.

It just doesn't make any sense that you'd get triple the ring gap. Engines don't wear that way.

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