Factory spec on front camber after Steeda camber plate install on MY26 Mustang GT

[fveegt]

Just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue. I did a search and came up empty. I installed Steeda camber plates on MY26 GT with performance package. When I set the camber on the passenger side for a track day, I got -3.1 with the strut rod just touching the tower. On the drivers side, the strut rod had a bit over 4.5mm gap between it and the tower to get the same -3.1 camber. Now, when trying to return to the factor spec of -.6 degrees, I can only get there on the passenger side with -1.1 being the best I can get on the drivers side. Factory springs and no other changes. I didn't think there could be that much difference from the R&R of the lower strut bolts but maybe? I'm ready to pull both out, check to see if there are any differences in the camber plates and maybe clamping the strut to the steering knuckle as I torque those bolts. TIA for any ideas/comments.

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[Sofa King]

1.1 is fine... factory spec is 1.

 

[krisk]

Just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue. I did a search and came up empty. I installed Steeda camber plates on MY26 GT with performance package. When I set the camber on the passenger side for a track day, I got -3.1 with the strut rod just touching the tower. On the drivers side, the strut rod had a bit over 4.5mm gap between it and the tower to get the same -3.1 camber. Now, when trying to return to the factor spec of -.6 degrees, I can only get there on the passenger side with -1.1 being the best I can get on the drivers side. Factory springs and no other changes. I didn't think there could be that much difference from the R&R of the lower strut bolts but maybe? I'm ready to pull both out, check to see if there are any differences in the camber plates and maybe clamping the strut to the steering knuckle as I torque those bolts. TIA for any ideas/comments.

I’m running the Steeda camber plates and have done numerous alignments myself, had it aligned by Steeda twice and had other shops attempt to align it only to check behind them and find out the specs were way out. Here are some comments:

1. -1.1 is good for front camber on a daily driver. Spec is -1.0 (+/- .75).
2. Toe affects camber, but a change in camber due to toe will not change the position of the top of the strut. Point being, you can reposition the top of the strut to the exact same point two times in a row and have a different camber if the toe has changed.
3. The struts are not going to match exactly left to right unless everything on the car is perfectly aligned, including the subframe. If the subframe is slightly off center then the tops of the struts are going to be in different positions to achieve the same camber on both sides.

The bottom line is if you can get both sides to -1.1 and your toe is set correctly, you should be fine.

 

[fveegt]

I’m running the Steeda camber plates and have done numerous alignments myself, had it aligned by Steeda twice and had other shops attempt to align it only to check behind them and find out the specs were way out. Here are some comments:

1. -1.1 is good for front camber on a daily driver. Spec is -1.0 (+/- .75).
2. Toe affects camber, but a change in camber due to toe will not change the position of the top of the strut. Point being, you can reposition the top of the strut to the exact same point two times in a row and have a different camber if the toe has changed.
3. The struts are not going to match exactly left to right unless everything on the car is perfectly aligned, including the subframe. If the subframe is slightly off center then the tops of the struts are going to be in different positions to achieve the same camber on both sides.

The bottom line is if you can get both sides to -1.1 and your toe is set correctly, you should be fine.

Interesting - my info shows the base GT camber as -1.0 which matches your comment but with the performance package at -0.50 to -0.75. Thx for the info. Makes more sense now with your comments on toe. Mine came from the factory set at -.6

 

[krisk]

Interesting - my info shows the base GT camber as -1.0 which matches your comment but with the performance package at -0.50 to -0.75. Thx for the info. Makes more sense now with your comments on toe. Mine came from the factory set at -.6

My 2024 manual shows -1.0 for both base and performance pack.

 

[Sofa King]

Interesting - my info shows the base GT camber as -1.0 which matches your comment but with the performance package at -0.50 to -0.75. Thx for the info. Makes more sense now with your comments on toe. Mine came from the factory set at -.6

Definitely DO NOT go by what it came at from the factory... some (most) of these come way off from the factory.

 

[fveegt]

My 2024 manual shows -1.0 for both base and performance pack.

Thanks - that helps. Now I just need to fiqure out why the LH and RH strut rod positions are so far off of each other. I assume there is enough 'slop' in the strut bolts to explain the difference. Just didn't expect that much with splined strut bolts.

 

[krisk]

Thanks - that helps. Now I just need to fiqure out why the LH and RH strut rod positions are so far off of each other. I assume there is enough 'slop' in the strut bolts to explain the difference. Just didn't expect that much with splined strut bolts.

A subframe that is 2mm off from center would result in a 4mm difference in the left and right camber plate position for mirrored camber settings. It wouldn't surprise me to find the subframe to be 2mm off center. My rear camber arm settings left and right are different by around 4mm while at identical camber angles, and I even have rear subframe alignment sleeves.

I'm not following the comment about "slop" in the strut bolts. I don't recall there being any play in the connection of strut and spindle.

 

[fveegt]

A subframe that is 2mm off from center would result in a 4mm difference in the left and right camber plate position for mirrored camber settings. It wouldn't surprise me to find the subframe to be 2mm off center. My rear camber arm settings left and right are different by around 4mm while at identical camber angles, and I even have rear subframe alignment sleeves.

I'm not following the comment about "slop" in the strut bolts. I don't recall there being any play in the connection of strut and spindle.

Before removal of the struts to install the Steeda camber plates, both LH and RH camber was -.6 degrees. The strut rod was within a few thousands of being exactly centered to the tower opening on both sides. After the Steeda camber plate install, the LH and RH placement of the strut rods in the opening, are significantly different and the drivers side won't go under -1.1 - the passenger side will go back to the original -.6 but is not centered in the tower as it was before the Steeda plate install. The only place I can see for the difference is in the connection between the steering knuckle and the strut. I did not compare the two Steeda camber plates before install to see if there was any difference there but maybe there is although I don't see how that could be the factor.

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