Factory spec on front camber after Steeda camber plate install on MY26 Mustang GT

[fveegt]

Just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue. I did a search and came up empty. I installed Steeda camber plates on MY26 GT with performance package. When I set the camber on the passenger side for a track day, I got -3.1 with the strut rod just touching the tower. On the drivers side, the strut rod had a bit over 4.5mm gap between it and the tower to get the same -3.1 camber. Now, when trying to return to the factor spec of -.6 degrees, I can only get there on the passenger side with -1.1 being the best I can get on the drivers side. Factory springs and no other changes. I didn't think there could be that much difference from the R&R of the lower strut bolts but maybe? I'm ready to pull both out, check to see if there are any differences in the camber plates and maybe clamping the strut to the steering knuckle as I torque those bolts. TIA for any ideas/comments.

Sponsored

 

[Sofa King]

1.1 is fine... factory spec is 1.

 

[krisk]

Just wondering if anyone else here has had this issue. I did a search and came up empty. I installed Steeda camber plates on MY26 GT with performance package. When I set the camber on the passenger side for a track day, I got -3.1 with the strut rod just touching the tower. On the drivers side, the strut rod had a bit over 4.5mm gap between it and the tower to get the same -3.1 camber. Now, when trying to return to the factor spec of -.6 degrees, I can only get there on the passenger side with -1.1 being the best I can get on the drivers side. Factory springs and no other changes. I didn't think there could be that much difference from the R&R of the lower strut bolts but maybe? I'm ready to pull both out, check to see if there are any differences in the camber plates and maybe clamping the strut to the steering knuckle as I torque those bolts. TIA for any ideas/comments.

I’m running the Steeda camber plates and have done numerous alignments myself, had it aligned by Steeda twice and had other shops attempt to align it only to check behind them and find out the specs were way out. Here are some comments:

1. -1.1 is good for front camber on a daily driver. Spec is -1.0 (+/- .75).
2. Toe affects camber, but a change in camber due to toe will not change the position of the top of the strut. Point being, you can reposition the top of the strut to the exact same point two times in a row and have a different camber if the toe has changed.
3. The struts are not going to match exactly left to right unless everything on the car is perfectly aligned, including the subframe. If the subframe is slightly off center then the tops of the struts are going to be in different positions to achieve the same camber on both sides.

The bottom line is if you can get both sides to -1.1 and your toe is set correctly, you should be fine.

Sponsored