2026 DARK HORSE 1ST OIL CHANGE QUESTION

[AHESQ]

THIS IS MY 1ST OIL CHANGE.

I AM TOLD THAT I NEED TO CHANGE THE CRUSH WASHER ON THE OIL DRAIN PLUG.

HOWEVER, WHEN I SEARCH FOR IT ONLINE, IT JUST SEEMS LIKE A REGULAR WASHER MAY BE NEEDED, NOT A "CRUSH" WASHER"

OTHERS HAVE SAID THERE IS NO WASHER AT ALL- ONLY AN IMBEDDED RUBBER O RING ON THE NUT WHICH CAN BE RE-USED.

WHICH IS CORRECT? THIS IS FOR 2026 V8 ONLY.

MANY THANKS

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[Upacurb]

No free first oil change at the dealer?

 

[Skye]

Long story short...

As the o-ring is imbedded inside the drain plug, buy a spare and set it aside. Pick an interval where you replace the plug, let's say every five oil changes or something like that. If you notice a nick, something doesn't seem right, or it actually begins leaking, replace sooner.

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From Forum threads, photos and videos, there is no crush washer. There is no gasket seating the bolt flange to the pan. There IS an embedded o-ring at the head end of the drain plug.

Most manufacturers recommend replacing drain plug gaskets or the drain plugs themselves at every oil change. The ask is there more to cover all bases, every instance of why something could fail.

In this example, the o-ring in the drain plug is not going to see a lot of physical wear. It's taken off maybe one or two times a year. It's lubricated from the dripping oil. The material itself is similar to other gaskets which encounter engine heat and oil and last the life of the vehicle.

Inspect the plug at each oil change and replace as necessary.

It's no different that a traditional plug using a paper gasket. While some replaced their's at each change, most of us would use it several times, flip the gasket, use it several more times and then replaced it when we thought it'd had enough. Replacing these plug at every change, that's a lot of drain plugs, considering there are millions on the road.

https://www.mustang7g.com/forums/threads/how-many-times-can-oil-drain-plug-be-reused.175194/

 

[SILVER ARROW]

Ive had mine changed twice at a Ford dealership once at 3000 miles. Second change when they installed the Ford performance supercharger. I looked over the paperwork and there was no charge for a new drain plug. This is at a Ford dealer.

 

[DarkHorsePremium]

@AHESQ
Drain bolt torque is 19 ft lbs. You have to take off the two bottom aero fins, all of the 7mm bolts and 3 pop-it. Two are the kind where pry the center out and one is solid. If you don't have a pop-it remover, get one because it'll make your life easier. When you take the filter off, use a pizza box or a plastic bag because it's right over two cross members and it'll make a mess. Also suggest a low pound torque wrench if you don't have one. 19 ft lb is less than people think. .

Filter is FL-2127 or FL-500S
Oil, 10qts (I use motorcraft full syn, but up to you)
Oil filter socket 76mm 14 flutes (whoever put my filter on at the factory put it on with both hands)
Plug can be reused a few times safely, just inspect as suggested.

Have fun! It's a love-hate relationship.

 

[AHESQ]

@AHESQ
Drain bolt torque is 19 ft lbs. You have to take off the two bottom aero fins, all of the 7mm bolts and 3 pop-it. Two are the kind where pry the center out and one is solid. If you don't have a pop-it remover, get one because it'll make your life easier. When you take the filter off, use a pizza box or a plastic bag because it's right over two cross members and it'll make a mess. Also suggest a low pound torque wrench if you don't have one. 19 ft lb is less than people think. .

Filter is FL-2127 or FL-500S
Oil, 10qts (I use motorcraft full syn, but up to you)
Oil filter socket 76mm 14 flutes (whoever put my filter on at the factory put it on with both hands)
Plug can be reused a few times safely, just inspect as suggested.

Have fun! It's a love-hate relationship.

 

[AHESQ]

Thanks to all of you for your helpful advice!

 

[krisk]

@AHESQ
Drain bolt torque is 19 ft lbs. You have to take off the two bottom aero fins, all of the 7mm bolts and 3 pop-it. Two are the kind where pry the center out and one is solid. If you don't have a pop-it remover, get one because it'll make your life easier. When you take the filter off, use a pizza box or a plastic bag because it's right over two cross members and it'll make a mess. Also suggest a low pound torque wrench if you don't have one. 19 ft lb is less than people think. .

Filter is FL-2127 or FL-500S
Oil, 10qts (I use motorcraft full syn, but up to you)
Oil filter socket 76mm 14 flutes (whoever put my filter on at the factory put it on with both hands)
Plug can be reused a few times safely, just inspect as suggested.

Have fun! It's a love-hate relationship.

I’m assuming the aero fins you reference are the underbody strakes. I’ve never removed them to take off the underbody cover. The cover will slip between the strakes and the subframe. In fact, leaving them on keeps the cover in place before installing any screws.

Also, to clarify, the FL-2127 is specified for the Ecoboost and the FL-500S for the GT.

I agree on everything else. A filter wrench, torque wrench, plastic push pin tool and some cardboard will save some headaches.

 

[DarkHorsePremium]

Everything I read said The FL 2127 supersedes the FL 500s. ??? However, I know the bypass pressure is different. Rockauto also has it listed for the 5.OL. I realized that doesn't mean it's gospel. It was dimensionally identical to the factory filter I took off my car 1st oil change. What came from the factory was black. It had a sticker on it with a number. I think that started with a 9 but I didn't bother recording it. I compared both, they were identical. Physically anyway.

If I recall there are three screws holding the each strake on, (thanks for correcting my wording, strake is correct) and two screws that hold the back of the cover. I took the strakes off to make sure I wasn't going to miss any of the screws. I suppose you could remove just the bolts and shimmy the cover in. I was using my DeWalt so removing took 30 seconds. The funny thing is I had a harder time getting the front lined up and back in than I did the back. I'll try the other method (your suggestion) next time. Anything to save some time. Thank you

 

[graymatter]

@AHESQ
When you take the filter off, use a pizza box or a plastic bag because it's right over two cross members and it'll make a mess.

Flexible funnel

 

[DarkHorsePremium]

Flexible funnel

Yep, those work good too. I should probably grab one.

 

[Sofa King]

Save yourself a little headache in the future and replace the fir tree type plastic fasteners with the removable center type... you'll thank me later.

Strakes need not be removed, just slide the cover out from under them.

 

[krisk]

Everything I read said The FL 2127 supersedes the FL 500s. ??? However, I know the bypass pressure is different. Rockauto also has it listed for the 5.OL. I realized that doesn't mean it's gospel. It was dimensionally identical to the factory filter I took off my car 1st oil change. What came from the factory was black. It had a sticker on it with a number. I think that started with a 9 but I didn't bother recording it. I compared both, they were identical.

If I recall there are three screws holding the each strake on, (thanks for correcting my wording, strake is correct) and two screws that hold the back of the cover. I took the strakes off to make sure I wasn't going to miss any of the screws. I suppose you could remove just the bolts and shimmy the cover in. I was using my DeWalt so removing took 30 seconds. The funny thing is I had a harder time getting the front lined up and back in than I did the back. I'll try the other method (your suggestion) next time. Anything to save some time. Thank you

I have heard that the FL-2127 supersedes the FL-500S, but when I have researched that statement, I could not confirm it was the case. The owner's manual for my 2024 Mustang states the filter for the 2.3 Ecoboost is the FL-2127 and the filter for the 5.0 is the FL-500S. Also, I have not found a Ford source document that states this, but other sources show the FL-500S bypass valve pressure rating between 16-22psi and the FL-2127 between 11-14. They will both fit either engine in the Mustang, but I've not found them to be functionally the same.

Looking up the oil filters on Ford.com, it shows the FL-2127 fits the 24-26 Mustang 2.3 and the 25-26 Mustang GTD 5.0, but does not list the Mustang 5.0. The FL-500S filter shows it fits the 11-26 Mustang 5.0 and 3.7 as well as the Mustang GTD 5.2. Now, there is an error somewhere because the GTD has a 5.2, not a 5.0, so I don't take the fitment guide as the absolute truth, but it is one more indication that I should stick with the FL-500S for my GT.

As far as the cover, I have found it easiest to slide the front in first, then bent the back under the strakes. I've had mine off probably 15-20 times now, so I've found the tricks that work best for me. I use my impact driver as well and it takes just a few seconds to remove the bolts.

https://www.ford.com/product/engine-oil-filter-p4000078207
https://www.ford.com/product/engine-oil-filter-p4000147027

 

[steveo1960]

Flexible funnel

I use the same one.
It works rather well.

 

[Wiley Marmot]

That flexible funnel might be OK, but the advert/production company should use new/clean oil for the demo! If I caught a tech poring black/dirty oil like that into my GT; I'd have to come out of my Marmot Bag and bite 'em on their ankle!

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