Oil Pressure after hitting up some twisties

[GeekGT5.0]

Yesterday, little group went and hit up some twisties north east of Houston. ambient temps around 61 degrees, fantastic day.

Now I'm assuming this is just something I've never noticed in all my previous mustangs because I didn't have live gauges on oil temp and oil pressure like I do in the 2024 gt. (Don't remember the 2011 having them)

So I have a non-pp car, aka no big oil cooler. It's something I want to upgrade because I do have the 3.55 diff gear, and autos with an upgraded diff gear tend to run higher oil temps.

That said, was a lot of 3-5th gear manual sport mode running these twisties, was a lot of fun. The hottest I saw the oil was 241 degrees. I wasn't "on it" as hard as i could be, just spirited fun driving, getting on it out of the turns. Mine will go from 210 to 240 degrees pretty quick which is surprising with 10q of oil.

When we rolled into the gas station, and idle for a min, my idle oil pressure was sitting at 16/17 when the oil temp was about 230 still. (driving its up like normal, cold starts it's 100psi)

Im running what the dealer is putting in there, motorcraft 5w-30, and this idle oil pressure just bothers me lol, like my water hose has 20psi of pressure.

Is this normal? I've watched videos about the oil pumps and LOL im just worried about this stuff, is this normal? am i just over obsessing about it?

If this was a fox body,even with some hot summer day hitting up twisties if it had 16/17 psi oil pressure I would be freaking out.

The little group...

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[robvas]

Normal.

 

[MAT1955]

@GeekGT5.0 ..... you are okay. Remember "today's" synthetic oils run thinner (they have too) and are formulated to do so. Their VI's (viscosity improvers) can form long chain polymers to protect against engine heat and even spikes in a nano second. Two suggestions: I have a 2024 GT and will soon have a 2026 GT and I have and will always run FULL synthetic as it is IMO a universe different than semi-synthetic or synthetic blend. I only use Ford FULL synthetic and Ford oil filters. Ford has an amazing base stock and superior VI package. Second, if you are going to have some "normal" fun and having a 3:55 considering an augmented oil cooler for the engine and even transmission sounds like a wise idea.

 

[GeekGT5.0]

@GeekGT5.0 ..... you are okay. Remember "today's" synthetic oils run thinner (they have too) and are formulated to do so. Their VI's (viscosity improvers) can form long chain polymers to protect against engine heat and even spikes in a nano second. Two suggestions: I have a 2024 GT and will soon have a 2026 GT and I have and will always run FULL synthetic as it is IMO a universe different than semi-synthetic or synthetic blend. I only use Ford FULL synthetic and Ford oil filters. Ford has an amazing base stock and superior VI package. Second, if you are going to have some "normal" fun and having a 3:55 considering an augmented oil cooler for the engine and even transmission sounds like a wise idea.

Oh yeah, for sure using the full synthetic.

Yeah, I want to do the oil cooler package ford offers that's like $700, plus $100 install. Just a matter of time. Really think it should of been part of the 3.55 package add-on, just seems like nickel and diming on Ford's side. But it is what it is.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Oh yeah, for sure using the full synthetic.

Yeah, I want to do the oil cooler package ford offers that's like $700, plus $100 install. Just a matter of time. Really think it should of been part of the 3.55 package add-on, just seems like nickel and diming on Ford's side. But it is what it is.

You can also consider upgrading to a better, aftermarket solution for oil cooling.

Setrab 960 oil cooler and -12 lines

#5

full quote at that link:

10 psi/1000 rpm under load is normal optimum pressure for function and longevity. I have confirmed this with multiple respected Ford/Coyote builders. In a race I see 100+psi cold start, 95-100psi warmed up above 2300 rpm-7700 and end of race/session 80-90 psi with oil temps of 240-250 actual/255-268 Ford ECU inferred. My combination is GT500 pan/pump, Setrab 960 oil cooler and -12 lines. At idle warm/hot the car will see psi as low at 28, which is not an issue, DHR cars we see it as low as 26 which sometimes causes the warning to illuminate in the MoTec dash, totally acceptable as long as running at load pressures are in the limits.​

​

The poster is an actual race car driver (Ford Dark Horse R)

 

[GeekGT5.0]

You can also consider upgrading to a better, aftermarket solution for oil cooling.

Setrab 960 oil cooler and -12 lines

#5

full quote at that link:

10 psi/1000 rpm under load is normal optimum pressure for function and longevity. I have confirmed this with multiple respected Ford/Coyote builders. In a race I see 100+psi cold start, 95-100psi warmed up above 2300 rpm-7700 and end of race/session 80-90 psi with oil temps of 240-250 actual/255-268 Ford ECU inferred. My combination is GT500 pan/pump, Setrab 960 oil cooler and -12 lines. At idle warm/hot the car will see psi as low at 28, which is not an issue, DHR cars we see it as low as 26 which sometimes causes the warning to illuminate in the MoTec dash, totally acceptable as long as running at load pressures are in the limits.​

​

The poster is an actual race car driver (Ford Dark Horse R)

Im guessing that's something that could be an upgrade to the ford oil cooler setup?

 

[GeekGT5.0]

Im also thinking I'll have to change my fake vents on the front bumper to the open ones for the air to flow though the cooler? Isn't it mounted behind this vent?

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Im also thinking I'll have to change my fake vents on the front bumper to the open ones for the air to flow though the cooler? Isn't it mounted behind this vent?

That's where Ford put my Dark Horse cooler, but I think the race cars (Dark Horse R) put the after market unit in front of the radiator (and they also have a different, dual pass radiator).

There is a manual with updates for all of the things that they install and how to install them. There are links to it over on trackmustangsonline

 

[MAT1955]

......you can even get oil coolers that have small electric cooling fans that are very effective. There are many "remote" oil coolers that can be placed in a number of areas under the S650 platform that are exceptionally effective. RSA (race solutions America) used to have some videos of their solutions for their WRXs and their personal 2000 WHP twin turbo Mustang GT (called the Lambo killer). You have many options to protect your transmission and engine that can be tailored to the "style" of driving you want to do.

 

[hal26]

Yesterday, little group went and hit up some twisties north east of Houston. ambient temps around 61 degrees, fantastic day.

Now I'm assuming this is just something I've never noticed in all my previous mustangs because I didn't have live gauges on oil temp and oil pressure like I do in the 2024 gt. (Don't remember the 2011 having them)

So I have a non-pp car, aka no big oil cooler. It's something I want to upgrade because I do have the 3.55 diff gear, and autos with an upgraded diff gear tend to run higher oil temps.

That said, was a lot of 3-5th gear manual sport mode running these twisties, was a lot of fun. The hottest I saw the oil was 241 degrees. I wasn't "on it" as hard as i could be, just spirited fun driving, getting on it out of the turns. Mine will go from 210 to 240 degrees pretty quick which is surprising with 10q of oil.

When we rolled into the gas station, and idle for a min, my idle oil pressure was sitting at 16/17 when the oil temp was about 230 still. (driving its up like normal, cold starts it's 100psi)

Im running what the dealer is putting in there, motorcraft 5w-30, and this idle oil pressure just bothers me lol, like my water hose has 20psi of pressure.

Is this normal? I've watched videos about the oil pumps and LOL im just worried about this stuff, is this normal? am i just over obsessing about it?

If this was a fox body,even with some hot summer day hitting up twisties if it had 16/17 psi oil pressure I would be freaking out.

The little group...

...

Yesterday, little group went and hit up some twisties north east of Houston. ambient temps around 61 degrees, fantastic day.

Now I'm assuming this is just something I've never noticed in all my previous mustangs because I didn't have live gauges on oil temp and oil pressure like I do in the 2024 gt. (Don't remember the 2011 having them)

So I have a non-pp car, aka no big oil cooler. It's something I want to upgrade because I do have the 3.55 diff gear, and autos with an upgraded diff gear tend to run higher oil temps.

That said, was a lot of 3-5th gear manual sport mode running these twisties, was a lot of fun. The hottest I saw the oil was 241 degrees. I wasn't "on it" as hard as i could be, just spirited fun driving, getting on it out of the turns. Mine will go from 210 to 240 degrees pretty quick which is surprising with 10q of oil.

When we rolled into the gas station, and idle for a min, my idle oil pressure was sitting at 16/17 when the oil temp was about 230 still. (driving its up like normal, cold starts it's 100psi)

Im running what the dealer is putting in there, motorcraft 5w-30, and this idle oil pressure just bothers me lol, like my water hose has 20psi of pressure.

Is this normal? I've watched videos about the oil pumps and LOL im just worried about this stuff, is this normal? am i just over obsessing about it?

If this was a fox body,even with some hot summer day hitting up twisties if it had 16/17 psi oil pressure I would be freaking out.

The little group...

...

My local dealer will put in SEMI Synthetic oil unless you specify 100% FULL synthetic oil. I have found a way around the high oil temps. Turn on your A/C ideally before and during as well as after hard driving. The fan will come on and reduce your temp by at LEAST 10 degrees. I run my 6 speed up to around 235 degrees and then turn on the A/C on my way home. It cools down to 212 before I park it in my garage after easy driving for around 4 miles. Oil cooler not required! Central Texas area

 

[Junkyard Dog]

I have found a way around the high oil temps. Turn on your A/C ideally before and during as well as after hard driving. The fan will come on and reduce your temp by at LEAST 10 degrees. I run my 6 speed up to around 235 degrees and then turn on the A/C on my way home. It cools down to 212 before I park it in my garage after easy driving for around 4 miles. Oil cooler not required! Central Texas area

At temperatures like that, the fan is already on, whether you turn on the a/c or not.

Also, the fans do not matter unless you are stopped or driving at very low speeds.

 

[hal26]

OK. So why does my oil temp fall so quickly when I turn on my A/C? I just figured that it activated the fan?

 

[bountifulgoose]

My local dealer will put in SEMI Synthetic oil unless you specify 100% FULL synthetic oil. I have found a way around the high oil temps. Turn on your A/C ideally before and during as well as after hard driving. The fan will come on and reduce your temp by at LEAST 10 degrees. I run my 6 speed up to around 235 degrees and then turn on the A/C on my way home. It cools down to 212 before I park it in my garage after easy driving for around 4 miles. Oil cooler not required! Central Texas area

I have driven through some fun twisty canyon down here in AZ during the summer where the outside temp was 118-120 degrees, highest temp I have ever seen in my DH was 227 -228 a non pp gt would have been damn near 250 degrees under those conditions. Oil cooler is a smart move.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

OK. So why does my oil temp fall so quickly when I turn on my A/C? I just figured that it activated the fan?

Well, it does activate the radiator fan, if the CHT is under the temperature where it turns on.

The thermostat opens around 190 degrees.

The fan turns on when CHT (not oil temp) hits around 200 (sorry if that is not quite right, as I am going off memory) at 40% and ramping up to high at around 220 (another going off memory and may not be quite right).

The idea is to keep the CHT in the 190s.

So if your CHT is 195, and you are idling at a stop light, and you turn on the a/c, the fan will turn on.

Some of the tuners bring the fans on earlier and on higher speed.

Some swap out the thermostat for a 170.

This means you are starting at a lower temperature, and it will take slightly longer to overheat just due to the coolant being at a lower temperature when you start pushing (but I think it is a bad idea on a daily driver to drive around all the time much cooler than 190).

If your inferred oil temperature is at 241 degrees (it is inferred, the car does not have an oil temperature sensor, and so the ECU will display a different temperature at the same temperature if you have a different oil, e.g., 5W-50 instead of 5W-30), you did not say what the CHT was, but if it is over the temperature where the fan is on high, then turning on the a/c will not make any difference to the fan. If CHT is lower, then it might.

Also, if you are driving along at say 60 mph, the fan does nothing at all to cool the engine. The fan cannot even come close to moving the same amount of air through the radiator that moving your car forward does.

 

[Junkyard Dog]

Also, oil at 241° is nothing to worry about.

Sorry if I did not mention that before.

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