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Stock PP Package Wheels Question- Widened by Weldcraft?

GrabberB

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I have a PP and a whipple. I also liked the the PP wheels but decided to go with what I knew would fit with no issues. LMR set of 19x10 for the front and 19x11 for the rear. When doing this you also shed some weight. The PP wheels are heavy. Good luck with your wheel setup
I too have a Whipple and the PP. I will be upgrading to wider wheels and tires very soon. Hopefully I will get a little more traction. Can you share the offsets on the wheels?
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86pagt

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SVE DHP1
Wheel SpecsFrontRear
Diameter 19"19"
Width 10"11"
Bolt Pattern 5x114.3 mm.5x114.3 mm.
Offset +35 mm.+50 mm.
Backspacing 6.88 in.7.94 in.
Centerbore 70.6 mm.70.6 mm.
Weight23 lbs23.4 lbs
 

MustangNoob

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Take the wider rear wheels and run them as fronts, and take the fronts and have WeldCraft widen them by 2” to 19x11” - will cost around $700.
My 2 cents
Have you ever considered the significant risks coming from this process? How about the structural integrity of the modified rims? $700 does not worth the risk if you are to put down 700+ horse power.
You are already spending $2300 for 9 speakers and some fancy bs lighting. Better stick with the 300 package and use the money to buy some nice wheels.
p.s I personally find the 301 package useless unless you have the car for cruising and going to excursions etc but even then it does not worth the money.
Don't forget that you are supercharging you mustang - do you really care about sirious xm , lumbar ,lighting ?
 
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Stanzi

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I too have a Whipple and the PP. I will be upgrading to wider wheels and tires very soon. Hopefully I will get a little more traction. Can you share the offsets on the wheels?
Manual or auto? And just how bad is the traction? Are you able to drive it without the rear end coming undone at all?
 
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Stanzi

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My 2 cents
Have you ever considered the significant risks coming from this process? How about the structural integrity of the modified rims? $700 does not worth the risk if you are to put down 700+ horse power.
You are already spending $2300 for 9 speakers and some fancy bs lighting. Better stick with the 300 package and use the money to buy some nice wheels.
p.s I personally find the 301 package useless unless you have the car for cruising and going to excursions etc but even then it does not worth the money.
Don't forget you that you are supercharging you mustang - do you really care about serious xm , lumbar ,lighting ?
I can absolutely afford the new wheels- I’m wanting to retain the stock look.

The wheel strength isn’t an issue- they are used on high horsepower race cars without incident. It’s not “bob’s garage” doing this….

I ordered the 301A for the power lumbar and heated seats, and am spending $2k on leather because the 400 isn’t a comfortable seat for me personally. Not only that it’s not even fully leather.

and yeah, it’s worth the price to me. The 400 wasn’t worth it.
 


GrabberB

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Manual or auto? And just how bad is the traction? Are you able to drive it without the rear end coming undone at all?
Manual. Traction is manageable but it would be nice to hook a little better.
 

86pagt

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Auto…stock pirelli’s not very good.. BMR CB010 and CB762 with a 325 Firestone Indy is much better. I don’t floor it from a stop so can’t answer in traction but as your rolling slight traction loss but very little and controlled
 
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Stanzi

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Manual. Traction is manageable but it would be nice to hook a little better.
Thanks! Good to hear. Just don’t want my wife to wig out when she drives it… she doesn’t do well with the rear ends of cars coming out. lol. I ordered the manual hoping for better control.

I had a 2004 Viper back in the day and I couldn’t drag race it- it would literally be spinning the tires through the traps.

I'm hoping this is more manageable with the higher HP but lower TQ motor of the Coyote
 
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Stanzi

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Auto…stock pirelli’s not very good.. BMR CB010 and CB762 with a 325 Firestone Indy is much better. I don’t floor it from a stop so can’t answer in traction but as your rolling slight traction loss but very little and controlled
Thanks for the description. That sounds livable. It’s not like I can test drive these things with the blowers on them haha
 

Cobrakit

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Weldcraft has been widening wheels for a long time, very reputable. I also liked the wheels on my 13 GT track pac, and it had a Whipple, widened from 9 to 10.5 to run 305 tires on rear. Took it to the road course several times, no problems.

I put my base DH on the lift to measure clearances for you. Harder than I thought to get accurate measurement. There are obstructions that stick out. So it looks like ~9in backspacing would contact. If you add 2in to the inside of your 9in stock wheel, you would be at a 8.77in backspacing. And if you run more negative camber, that would decrease. 10.5 would be safer and still allow you to run a 305 or 315. OBTW HP DH 11in wheels have a 8.07in backspacing for reference. As you know, aftermarket 11in wheels also change offset to move wheel outboard. Widening, still cheaper than buying 4 new wheels, especially if you like the factory ones. Maybe someone has better measurements.
 
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Stanzi

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Weldcraft has been widening wheels for a long time, very reputable. I also liked the wheels on my 13 GT track pac, and it had a Whipple, widened from 9 to 10.5 to run 305 tires on rear. Took it to the road course several times, no problems.

I put my base DH on the lift to measure clearances for you. Harder than I thought to get accurate measurement. There are obstructions that stick out. So it looks like ~9in backspacing would contact. If you add 2in to the inside of your 9in stock wheel, you would be at a 8.77in backspacing. And if you run more negative camber, that would decrease. 10.5 would be safer and still allow you to run a 305 or 315. OBTW HP DH 11in wheels have a 8.07in backspacing for reference. As you know, aftermarket 11in wheels also change offset to move wheel outboard. Widening, still cheaper than buying 4 new wheels, especially if you like the factory ones. Maybe someone has better measurements.
Man thank you so much…

so maybe new plan is to keep the stock wheels up front, and just widen the rears by 1 inch which allows me to mostly keep everything in check and gives me the ability to run a 305 rear tire over a 275 tire.

that should work!

I appreciate it. Once I finally get mine I’ll get under mine and measure before I do it.

💪💪💪💪
 

Cobrakit

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Jack up under lower control arm and remove wheel for better measurement. Also, some of the obtrusion might be able to be modified to make more clearance. I would think a 10.5in is doable.
 

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The front wheel doesn't really move much further outside; this is because the rear wheel has a 52.5 offset and the front a 24mm offset. Adding a 25mm spacer with the rear 52.5 mm factory wheel gives the front just a 3.5 mm difference from the factory setting.

You are correct, the center of the rear wheel is 25mm further out on the front hub with the spacer, but because of the different shape or offset of the wheels, the outer part of the wheel stays about the same.
You are of course correct.

Offset is the distance from the centerline of the wheel to the mounting surface of the wheel. Therefore, a higher number (52.5mm v. 24mm) offset has less of a "dish" meaning it is actually going to mount further inward. I had it backwards. Sorry for the confusion.

I would still like to see how an 11" wheel and tire combo looks on the front and some real feedback on rubbing. Ford really pushed the wheel and tire combo on the Dark Horse handling package (I have comments from others all the time disbelieving that my wheels and tires are factory and not aftermarket). I imagine that if they could have put another half inch in there, then they would have.
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