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P2138 code anyone?

mandersgt

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2025 Dark Horse with TREMEC had SES light come on and no throttle response when shifting into 4th to go over 35mph. Pulled over and read the codes and got P2138. Seemed intermittent and was fine for a few days but towed her into the dealership today. Curious if anyone else has had this happen? I am having a D1 crash out my poor baby 😭
S650 Mustang P2138 code anyone? IMG_6482
S650 Mustang P2138 code anyone? IMG_6483
S650 Mustang P2138 code anyone? IMG_6474
S650 Mustang P2138 code anyone? IMG_6460
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Cz_Ziemniak

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Nothing serious based on the code, wouldn't worry too much about it.

At worst, probably just needs a new sensor and recalibration
 


smithbrandon84

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2025 Dark Horse with TREMEC had SES light come on and no throttle response when shifting into 4th to go over 35mph. Pulled over and read the codes and got P2138. Seemed intermittent and was fine for a few days but towed her into the dealership today. Curious if anyone else has had this happen? I am having a D1 crash out my poor baby 😭
IMG_6482.webp
IMG_6483.webp
IMG_6474.webp
IMG_6460.webp
Was this ever fixed? I bought a 2025 gt performance pack, a couple weeks into ownership I got this code and p2122. It was intermittent at first and got worse. I was finally able to get it into the dealership on October 28th and they've had it ever since. They replaced a pedal, didnt fix it, replaced the connector at the pedal with a pigtail, it didnt fix it, and last I heard they ordered a pigtail for the pcm side which scares me. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
 

Neggytive

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Was this ever fixed? I bought a 2025 gt performance pack, a couple weeks into ownership I got this code and p2122. It was intermittent at first and got worse. I was finally able to get it into the dealership on October 28th and they've had it ever since. They replaced a pedal, didnt fix it, replaced the connector at the pedal with a pigtail, it didnt fix it, and last I heard they ordered a pigtail for the pcm side which scares me. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
effn dealership mechanics, they should be in there with a scope and back probing wires and doing continuity tests, wiggling the crap out of the harness, etc.

Instead they are just firing the parts cannon at it.

Signal at the PCM for both sensor wires, signals at the pedal, continuity in the harness.

signal out of the PCM that is created by the 2 sensors in the gas pedal needs to be looked at too.

 
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mandersgt

mandersgt

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Was this ever fixed? I bought a 2025 gt performance pack, a couple weeks into ownership I got this code and p2122. It was intermittent at first and got worse. I was finally able to get it into the dealership on October 28th and they've had it ever since. They replaced a pedal, didnt fix it, replaced the connector at the pedal with a pigtail, it didnt fix it, and last I heard they ordered a pigtail for the pcm side which scares me. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
At least they’re trying with yours! Mine sat there for a week and a half and they wouldn’t look at it. My issue was frayed wiring (from the factory) above the clutch pedal which was causing a short. Was identified by an independent shop and fixed within an hour. Good luck!!
 

smithbrandon84

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effn dealership mechanics, they should be in there with a scope and back probing wires and doing continuity tests, wiggling the crap out of the harness, etc.

Instead they are just firing the parts cannon at it.

Signal at the PCM for both sensor wires, signals at the pedal, continuity in the harness.

signal out of the PCM that is created by the 2 sensors in the gas pedal needs to be looked at too.



I agree. Im frustrated that its been there going on 2 weeks and it sounds like they want to hack uo my pcm wiring.
 

Neggytive

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ok just tossing an opinion out there... the problem is that many of the "technicians" are still mechanics.

All they know how to do is replace parts, or as we call it firing the parts canon at the car until they find the part that solves the problem

I am finding I am spending more time looking at sensor data, wiring, ringing out harnesses, etc than replacing parts.

It helps I went to a Vo-Tech for Electronics and worked for many years part time as a tech/engineer in broadcast radio. Electricity is second nature to me.

On a new car you are not usually dealing with mouse/rat damage, connectors that are 10 years old that are brittle and break if you touch them, etc.

There is also another condition that happens if a connector has been connected and disconnected multiple times, the female side which sandwiches the pin from the male side loosens up from being taken apart too many times, then you get an intermittent connection.

Faye Hadley ( Pistons & Pixie Dust) and Eric O (South Main St Auto) point this out on their videos often and Eric has a gauge kit he uses to measure the drag in the connector, too loose and he knows he has to fix or replace that connector.

I can understand why a Tech would slam a new pedal assembly in and hope it solves the problem. This is warranty work which pays nothing for labor and trying to get paid for diagnostic time takes begging to the service manager and the service manager has to go beg Ford to get the tech paid.. But the minute that a pedal R&R failed to solve the issue then it is inspect connectors and the harness for obvious defects, then scope the 2 pedal signals thru the harness back to the ECM, looking for signal voltage being present and correct and the output of the ECM that is derived form the 2 input signals.

Lots of those signals can be read with a good scan tool

But seriously you spend a lot of time looking at schematics, looking for connector locations, digging into tight spaces to find all this crap. If you are weak on diagnostic skills in the wiring department, on YT South Main St Auto has some of the best videos out there for electrical diagnosis. Watch a few of his videos and you get an idea of the methodology he uses to diagnose and repair things.

I spend more time with a scan tool and meter in my hands than a wrench these days, the mechanical stuff is so much more reliable than it was when I started doing this more than 40 years ago, The electrical? Not so much. The worst part is even if you get the electrical diagnosis right, the aftermarket parts and sensors are absolute garbage, you will replace a known bad part and still have the same problem because the replacement part is also defective. Eric O's latest video (South Main St Auto ) is a rant about garbage aftermarket parts. Personally especially with Toyota products I am using OEM parts only. Their computers are not tolerant of anything that is not exactly to their specification. Ask any person that tried to use an aftermarket O2 sensor in any Toyota ever made. Get the Denso sensor from the dealer and save yourself a lot of headache.

I would not assume for a second that the harness was good. I had a SRS light come on in my car before the first tank of gas was gone and it went back to the dealer for a drivers seat airbag harness due to a manufacturing defect.
 

smithbrandon84

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ok just tossing an opinion out there... the problem is that many of the "technicians" are still mechanics.

All they know how to do is replace parts, or as we call it firing the parts canon at the car until they find the part that solves the problem

I am finding I am spending more time looking at sensor data, wiring, ringing out harnesses, etc than replacing parts.

It helps I went to a Vo-Tech for Electronics and worked for many years part time as a tech/engineer in broadcast radio. Electricity is second nature to me.

On a new car you are not usually dealing with mouse/rat damage, connectors that are 10 years old that are brittle and break if you touch them, etc.

There is also another condition that happens if a connector has been connected and disconnected multiple times, the female side which sandwiches the pin from the male side loosens up from being taken apart too many times, then you get an intermittent connection.

Faye Hadley ( Pistons & Pixie Dust) and Eric O (South Main St Auto) point this out on their videos often and Eric has a gauge kit he uses to measure the drag in the connector, too loose and he knows he has to fix or replace that connector.

I can understand why a Tech would slam a new pedal assembly in and hope it solves the problem. This is warranty work which pays nothing for labor and trying to get paid for diagnostic time takes begging to the service manager and the service manager has to go beg Ford to get the tech paid.. But the minute that a pedal R&R failed to solve the issue then it is inspect connectors and the harness for obvious defects, then scope the 2 pedal signals thru the harness back to the ECM, looking for signal voltage being present and correct and the output of the ECM that is derived form the 2 input signals.

Lots of those signals can be read with a good scan tool

But seriously you spend a lot of time looking at schematics, looking for connector locations, digging into tight spaces to find all this crap. If you are weak on diagnostic skills in the wiring department, on YT South Main St Auto has some of the best videos out there for electrical diagnosis. Watch a few of his videos and you get an idea of the methodology he uses to diagnose and repair things.

I spend more time with a scan tool and meter in my hands than a wrench these days, the mechanical stuff is so much more reliable than it was when I started doing this more than 40 years ago, The electrical? Not so much. The worst part is even if you get the electrical diagnosis right, the aftermarket parts and sensors are absolute garbage, you will replace a known bad part and still have the same problem because the replacement part is also defective. Eric O's latest video (South Main St Auto ) is a rant about garbage aftermarket parts. Personally especially with Toyota products I am using OEM parts only. Their computers are not tolerant of anything that is not exactly to their specification. Ask any person that tried to use an aftermarket O2 sensor in any Toyota ever made. Get the Denso sensor from the dealer and save yourself a lot of headache.

I would not assume for a second that the harness was good. I had a SRS light come on in my car before the first tank of gas was gone and it went back to the dealer for a drivers seat airbag harness due to a manufacturing defect.
Yeah I have access to Ford PTS at work, I brought up the wiring, and how to troubleshoot it. This is part of the reason I dont understand why they are doing what their doing.
S650 Mustang P2138 code anyone? 1000066622
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