or ese is the active exhaust version ? Enhanced capability of same function. If preprogrammed it would be easily detectable with the resonator delete or even resonator increase (as in add more baffling) and the faux would then increase since it can’t detect the variance ?Yeah, I didn't find any microphones for ESE front or rear, looked through the diagrams. I wouldn't be surprised if its just digitized sound being played through the speakers, or pre-programmed.
It makes such a huge difference in the Ecoboost, and yet we really have no idea how this works.
I haven't even watched the video, I'm at work.
Heavily edited this original post to reflect the final build and process.
Hi all. I've been closely reading the various threads on here about modifications to the audio systems, specifically the subwoofers, and watching anything I can on Youtube. That said, I've never done any work on a car audio system before, so I was a little nervous as I get ready to tackle this. The below reflects the end results of my research and steps I took to install a subwoofer on a GT Premium with the 9-speaker system (not B&O and no factory subwoofer).
So, as you can see, my basic plan was:
1. Tap the wiring harness going to the rear speakers, and feed that into the Kicker KISLOC2 line output converter.
2. That goes to the amp, and amp to speaker.
I had originally planned to mount the amplifier to the subwoofer box with some rubber isolation washers, but I decided against that as I wanted to be able to remove the subwoofer from the trunk without having to disconnect the power and ground wires for the amp.
Power line from the battery to the amp was run through a gasket located behind the passenger-side wheel well. It was a bit of a pain to get in there; I took the tire off and opened up the cover for the wheel well, then used a utility knife to carefully slice an opening, then fed a wire hanger through and taped the power cable to it before pulling it back through the gasket.
The line output converter I'm using is the KISLOC2 LOC. It has a remote wire that will turn the amp on or off depending on whether there is power to the rear deck speakers, so that means I won't need to tap a fuse for on/off. Downside is apparently the mustang's rear deck speakers (perhaps all of them) power on when you approach the car with your keyfob, so there will be a few "thumps" from the subwoofer. I like to think of it as a heart beat. That said, I've confirmed the LOC and the subwoofer do turn off after a couple minutes you turn off and walk away from the car.
Update 6/29/24: I swapped out the cruddy Autotek amp for an Alpine and the sound is much improved. I did finally notice the buzz that some other folks have reported while cruising, so I loaded up Forscan and took a look. Using this super helpful post (thank you @roket ). I was 99% certain the buzzing sound was coming from Active Noise Cancelation (ANC) because lots of folks have said the GTs don't have the fake engine noise piped in. Well, as it happens, my ANC value was already set to 0 but the Software ESE was set to 1 -- I was getting fake engine noise, and it was making the subwoofer buzz and hum under acceleration. After setting that value also to 0, no more buzz.
That is exactly what I already posted and described, also refering to others having had the same experience.
You know that we are talking about frequencies in the hearing range?
Although that is a demonstration how to capture noise not heard. But oddly the noise that is claimed to be heard is unable to be recorded.
