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Oil Separator-Good!

Skye

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Why not just disconnect those hoses from the vented crankcase to the intake and plug the ends? Will the ECU notice?
I pulled some threads on the debate of using a can versus venting.

Some owners will have unique applications with venting that does not involve the PCV valve and system. I'll set this category aside, as it often involves specific tuner/modder/part manufacturer recommendations.

For the rest of us, primarily street drivers, with occasional track or strip action, I'll break it into two examples.

1. Venting with no PCV system.

You've removed the PCV valve, capped the hose at the intake and the port in the valve cover. You've installed a filtered vent in the valve cover. This is one way to prevent any oil-based vapors from entering the intake system. But all the rest of the effects are negative.

- In states with emissions testing, it's an immediate fail

- I doubt any Ford dealer would see it in good light, especially if dealing with other engine-related matters

- Previously, there was negative pressure helping "suck" the rings onto the piston lands; that's gone

- Several parameters in with PCM/ECU could reach their upper ranges, with no adjustability left

- The venting filters have to be cleaned. Depending on conditions, oil may drip out and you might clean often

2. Catch Can with PCV system.

You've placed a catch can in-line with the PCV system.

- You'll have to occasionally remove the can, drain and re-install (5-10 minutes, once or twice a year)

- I get something of a window into the crankcase (see water, fuel contamination)

- Negative impacts listed in the previous paragraph don't exist

Option two, the catch can, seems like the path ahead, if concerned about oil-based vapors and the desire to keep them out of the intake
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Zig

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Why not just disconnect those hoses from the vented crankcase to the intake and plug the ends? Will the ECU notice?
Bing bing bing. Winner winner chicken … oh well. Short answer … because and no not really well maybe a little bit on second thought …

Condensation will build fairly quick without any vent.
 

roadpilot

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Does installing one of those violate the Ford Warranty guidelines?
(same question for Oil Coolers)
Ford can't void your (entire) warranty because you install something like that.

What they CAN do is: If they determine that the modification you made was the cause of an otherwise covered part to fail, they can deny the warranty claim/repair for THAT specific issue.

Install an oil cooler or other similar modification, engine somehow has oil related issues and seizes up or has internal issues that are oil related, they could probably get away with blaming your lubrication system modification for the damage and deny the claim.

CAN they do it? Sure.

WILL they do it? No way to tell.
 

CarsAndWines

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Ford can't void your (entire) warranty because you install something like that.

What they CAN do is: If they determine that the modification you made was the cause of an otherwise covered part to fail, they can deny the warranty claim/repair for THAT specific issue.

Install an oil cooler or other similar modification, engine somehow has oil related issues and seizes up or has internal issues that are oil related, they could probably get away with blaming your lubrication system modification for the damage and deny the claim.

CAN they do it? Sure.

WILL they do it? No way to tell.

Regardless if it is Ford OEM/Ford Performance parts and installed at Ford dealership?
Just wondering if anyone has an experience of that kind...
 


roadpilot

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Regardless if it is Ford OEM/Ford Performance parts and installed at Ford dealership?
Just wondering if anyone has an experience of that kind...
Depends upon the component.

And keep in mind Ford OEM != Ford Performance.
 

MustangNoob

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Hello folks.

I had installed the ford performance air oil separator on both sides. Today I checked them.
Drivers side completely dry
Passengers side has few mm oil.

I daily drive this car with occasionally spirited drive.

S650 Mustang Oil Separator-Good! tempImagehQ7rxE
 
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OP
OP

SSuperDave

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I changed my oil friday, and emptied the separator at that time. Mine is the round canister type with the screw off reservoir, and in 2500 miles and had about an inch of oil in it.
 

24 vert

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...Almost never come stock. Rumor there is a unicorn that self drains (no user maintenance required?) but that’s a rumor of a unicorn.
Not a rumor or a unicorn. I was investigating this option heavily before eventually deciding that the hassle of tapping the oil pan for a drain line wasn't worth it when the car is still under warranty and just bought a UPR kit when they went on sale around Christmas time.

This type of system of an air oil separator with a drain is quite common on turbo diesels especially in Australia. Also, it is a factory OEM part on BMW and Porsche. If you Google BMW air oil separator or Porsche air oil separator you'll get tons of links for OEM replacement parts. Quite frankly, those OEM designs are much better than what we typically use in the coyote aftermarket catch can/AOS options with regards to how well they separate the air and oil. The Ford part seems pretty good with air oil separation but with the exception of excessive price and the typically unnecessary addition of the mandatory driver side unit which really doesn't pick up much. Technically that's supposed to be the fresh air return to the crankcase after the vapors are vented from the passenger side. I don't know if there is one present in the OEM setup but the simplest solution would be a check valve that only allows air to go into the crankcase from that line as opposed to air coming back towards the intake. The addition to a catch can/air oil separator would be an outlet drain on the bottom of the can with a check valve at the end that then goes to the oil sump/drain pan just below the oil level in the sump. The check valve prevents crankcase oil from backing up into the air oil separator through the drain line and allows the drain to self empty especially when the engine is off.
On the diesels in Australia, the aftermarket kits typically have a clear fiber reinforced drain hose with a quarter turn ball valve on the end that goes down through the engine bay to the level of oil pan and can be manually drained at time of oil change. This would be a useful addition for us as well but the best option would still be a return to the drain pan/sump below the oil level. Hopefully the links below will help you understand. Since I knew about this stuff, I felt that the options available in the Coyote aftermarket and even the Ford OEM solutions were just a step behind. After getting the UPR air oil separator, I realized that the internal Air/oil separation is better than I expected but the can still has some shortcomings not present in the OE engineered solutions. I may consider a conversion depending on how it goes. Some links below to help put a visual to the text. The Provent product from Mann and Hummel is the best option. It even has an over pressure valve to prevent it from bursting if the can accidentally becomes pressurized somehow. This is useful in the turbo and high horsepower applications if they have tons of blow by pressurizing the crankcase. The other thing I like about the provent system is that it has a replaceable filter. Not a frequent thing but recommended for replacement every I think 60,000 km in the diesel applications. At that point, it should probably go the life of the car or at least the length of your ownership without needing any replacement.

Example of the BMW OEM parts are seen in the images on this Google link. You will see similar results if you Google Porsche air oil separator.
https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW...s-revc&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8&inm=vs

An example of the most common aftermarket air oil separator used on turbo diesels. I think the pro vent 100 used in our application might be quite useful. If you look up mann provent 200 on YouTube, you'll come across with tons of install/review videos from Australia.
https://oem.mann-hummel.com/en/oem-products/crankcase-ventilation-systems/provent-100-300.html

Short YouTube video on the mann provent 200 air oil separator. It gives a good example of the drain hose and ball valve. Just keep in mind that this gentleman misidentifies the input to the can and the exit. The input is actually the hose that comes into the middle side of the can and the exit is actually the hose on the can that is higher up.


Cheers,
24 Vert
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