Oil Life at 0% After 300 Miles

[LouG]

Bikes are very different for exactly the reason you called out, a bike's oil is formulated for that environment. The main reason a car's oil needs to be changed after a few days on the track is because of the repeated hard throttle and hard braking, robbing the car of all the power it just created, just for you to ask for that power again. But that is how you get to throw the weight of the car around, get that grip, and make the car really fly around the track!

At the risk of this thread becoming boring, not all bikers use bike oil. Many use Dexron and some other semi synth or non synth oil. And the main difference in bike oil is the lack of friction modifiers due to their wet clutches.
Your description of track use is pretty much like commuting on a bike. We'll, maybe I exagerrate a little. But bike engines generally get a much harder life than cars.
My Yamaha spent a lot of it's time at the Coyotes rev limit.
We'll have to agree to disagree.

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[robvas]

At the risk of this thread becoming boring, not all bikers use bike oil. Many use Dexron and some other semi synth or non synth oil. And the main difference in bike oil is the lack of friction modifiers due to their wet clutches.
Your description of track use is pretty much like commuting on a bike. We'll, maybe I exagerrate a little. But bike engines generally get a much harder life than cars.
My Yamaha spent a lot of it's time at the Coyotes rev limit.
We'll have to agree to disagree.

Most bike guys I know either use Rotella, Honda or Harley Davidson branded oil, or something like Motul or Redline

 

[LouG]

Most bike guys I know either use Rotella, Honda or Harley Davidson branded oil, or something like Motul or Redline

Rotella is the one, not Dexron. Thanks
I used Mobil R4T for years.

 

[Neggytive]

Bike oils especially where the clutch runs in oil has to have an oil with no molybdenum in it.

I like Valvoline VR-4 in my Harleys because it is high zinc and the cams and lifters love zinc

in the transmission and primary I run Red Line or other hole specific lubricant.

The Kawasaki's always had to have a JASO MA rated oil in order not to gunk the clutch up

Some of the Rotella's are JASO rated.

But as for the Mustang oil life monitor, my oil has 3179 miles on it and is showing 20% oil life left.

I was planning on changing the oil in 821 miles anyway when the car has 5000 on it ( first oil change was done at 1000 miles after a 2 month break in) but JFC 4000 miles give or take with 10 quarts of full synthetic has me wondering WTF is going on with their algorithm

Oh well we'll see what happens in October when I start driving the car again

 

[robvas]

Bike oils especially where the clutch runs in oil has to have an oil with no molybdenum in it.

I like Valvoline VR-4 in my Harleys because it is high zinc and the cams and lifters love zinc

in the transmission and primary I run Red Line or other hole specific lubricant.

The Kawasaki's always had to have a JASO MA rated oil in order not to gunk the clutch up

Some of the Rotella's are JASO rated.

But as for the Mustang oil life monitor, my oil has 3179 miles on it and is showing 20% oil life left.

I was planning on changing the oil in 821 miles anyway when the car has 5000 on it ( first oil change was done at 1000 miles after a 2 month break in) but JFC 4000 miles give or take with 10 quarts of full synthetic has me wondering WTF is going on with their algorithm

Oh well we'll see what happens in October when I start driving the car again

It's going to go down to 0% in a year even if you don't drive it.

 

[Frogdog1]

I just thought I’d share with everyone my experience, which demonstrates our cars are adjusting oil change intervals based on use. I changed my oil at 9,874 miles two weeks ago, reset the oil life to 100%, and today at 10,174 it hit 0% oil life. That is a total of 300 miles driven.

Now, to put some context to that, it was 300 track miles at Barber Motorsports Park. I just found it interesting that it went to 0% so quickly after two days of track driving. I’ll take it the car is designed to know when it’s time, so it looks like I’ll be changing the oil after every track weekend.

The owner's manual will clearly answer your question.

 

[krisk]

The owner's manual will clearly answer your question.

And what was my question?

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