Man, you've "aged yourself" terribly throughout this thread and I think this forum has more than it's share of "older people". My dad bought a Coyote Mustang at 86 y.o. and enjoyed every minute of it. Maybe you have health problems or something but you'll be here to either enjoy what's left, or worry about it. Live it one day at a time and do what you want and have fun with each day. All you have to do is go test drive both transmissions and make a decision. Both are good IMO. It just doesn't matter that much to me what transmission other people have. Sorry, just had to say it and give you something to think about. There are young 70 y.o's and old 70 y.o's..... Sometimes it's a decision.I truly appreciate all the opinions shared ā whether itās manual vs. A10 from a reliability standpoint, which is faster, or which is most enjoyable. But youāre right: what I was really looking for was feedback on ease of use, especially for those of us no longer blessed with youth.
From what I can tell, this forum leans toward a younger crowd ā folks in that sweet spot of life where theyāve āarrivedā and can support an expensive hobby. As a longātime enthusiast, it makes me happy to see the torch being carried forward.
I sold my 56 Chevy exactly 30 years after buying it. In that time, I swapped three motors, a transmission, rear ends, and countless mechanical and aesthetic elements ; 100% all me in a townhouse garage. As retirement approached, the car became a serious handful. Keeping a 671āblown motor dialed in was a constant effort, and eventually I made the decision to let her go. My best friend, who owns wicked 55 and 56 Chevys, thought I was crazy ā maybe he was right. But my thinking was to buy a newāschool hot rod with just enough nods to the past to keep me happy. Something I could enjoy in retirement, keeping my hotārod identity intact without all the headaches that came with my 56.
So, long story short, what Iām really after is insight into the ease of driving a modern manual. My only memory of driving a stick goes back 55 years, and it was a nightmare thanks to the hilly area I lived in. I donāt know where my body will be in 5, 10, or 20 years (God willing), so Iāll test drive both and make the call. With winter here, Iāve got several months to hunt for the right deal. And if that deal turns out to be a manual, I came here hoping to hear from the āgeriatric crowd.ā.![]()
Go for the Manual! I initially bought an automatic because I thought it would be nice for a change not having to shift gears. Once the novelty of the new car wore off I was really wishing I bought a manual. So, I sold the automatic for a loss and bought another brand new one with manual transmission. Night and day difference for me! No regrets! The driving experience was so much better. I'm not into drag racing so I'm ok with cruising along and shifting gears. Be careful with your choice.Iām a bit embarrassed to ask, but itās been a long time since I last drove a manual. My first car was a 68 Chevelle with a small block and a stick. The motor was shot, so I rebuilt it in my high school shop with help from my teacher, who owned a 70 Chevelle 454 and a Corvette. The transmission worked fine, but the clutch was always a problem. I still remember sweating bullets on hills, terrified of rolling back when someone pulled up close behind me.
Now, at 70 years old, Iām considering buying another manual, but Iām nervous about the prospect. In my recently sold 56 Chevy, I ran a reverse manual valve body TCI Turbo 400 and loved itāthe fun of a manual without the clutch. Realistically, Iāll probably play it safe with a 10āspeed automatic, but deep down I know the stick would be more fun.
For those with experience: what are your thoughts on choosing a manual at my age? Any advice or stories that might help me decide? Iām currently leaning toward either a GT Premium (loaded) or a Dark Horse (basic), though also looking at a base stingray.
DANG! That hurts! GT or DH with the Tremec?Go for the Manual! I initially bought an automatic because I thought it would be nice for a change not having to shift gears. Once the novelty of the new car wore off I was really wishing I bought a manual. So, I sold the automatic for a loss and bought another brand new one with manual transmission. Night and day difference for me! No regrets! The driving experience was so much better. I'm not into drag racing so I'm ok with cruising along and shifting gears. Be careful with your choice.
Personally speaking, I don't consider EV's to be cars. Sustainable transport if you will.Fast? Faster than what? Every nice electric car on the road will smoke you⦠thatās why this āIām faster with my auto mustangā is hilarious argument.
Again, if youāre in a class at a drag strip, yes automatic wins.
Both. Live a little.I'm gonna have some ice cream...should I eat chocolate or butter pecan?
I truly believe that if you aren't taking the car to the track, the PP and DH cars just aren't worth it. You are essentially just paying for extra cooling on the PP and extra cooling and suspension for the DH. The suspension on the non PP GT is still excellent. Especially if you add the K and strut brace. I agree that if you are a straight line, street driver kinda guy, you should save your money and get the 401A and active Exhaust. The only exception would be if you want to super charge it. Then I'd get the PP because of the auxiliary oil cooler.I hearya Neggy. I'm startled by the pricing. It's why I'm now considering a GT Premium with a few options like 401A (or is it 401K), Active Exhaust, B&O, and Brembos. $45,000 max as dealers reduce inventory. I'll set aside a budget for a few aftermarket additions like adjustable coilovers and new wheels. The add-ons after adjusting to the new ride. Though I will not know till I test drive, I'm betting I will not need PP being a straight line kinda guy.
This exercise is helping me set expectations. Very helpful.
Here are my two cents,Iām a bit embarrassed to ask, but itās been a long time since I last drove a manual. My first car was a 68 Chevelle with a small block and a stick. The motor was shot, so I rebuilt it in my high school shop with help from my teacher, who owned a 70 Chevelle 454 and a Corvette. The transmission worked fine, but the clutch was always a problem. I still remember sweating bullets on hills, terrified of rolling back when someone pulled up close behind me.
Now, at 70 years old, Iām considering buying another manual, but Iām nervous about the prospect. In my recently sold 56 Chevy, I ran a reverse manual valve body TCI Turbo 400 and loved itāthe fun of a manual without the clutch. Realistically, Iāll probably play it safe with a 10āspeed automatic, but deep down I know the stick would be more fun.
For those with experience: what are your thoughts on choosing a manual at my age? Any advice or stories that might help me decide? Iām currently leaning toward either a GT Premium (loaded) or a Dark Horse (basic), though also looking at a base stingray.
Very interesting since I have the 3:15 auto. I don't find it lacks for anything power/speed wise with that rear end ratio. I've read the car is limited to 155, which doesn't matter to me.do the math on the gear ratios on the 3.55 gears, besides being something like a $1000 option on the automatic cars, the auto gear ratios with 3.15's work out right, especially the first gear Ford is known for... super low. I posted the gear ratio chart back a couple of weeks ago when we were discussing 3.73 and 4.10 (4.09?) gear sets.
The peak torque us just under 5000 rpm, with 6 of the automatic gear ratios being more than 1:1 you are going to get the benefit of not only torque multiplication but being able to keep the car in the sweet spot where it gives the most ooomph
The stick cars need the 3.55's due to the lack of torque multiplication in 2, 3 and 4
Manual with 3.55's the effective gear ratios are
11.537 to 1 in first
7.916 in second
5.715 in third
4.402 in 4th
Fifth gear is 1:1 times 3.55 which is 3.55
sixth is an OD so 2.23 : 1
Now lets do the 10 speed and 3.15's and remember every automatic 3.15 car has been about 2/10's of a second FASTER in the 1/4 than the 6 speed
4.70 x 3.15 14.805 to 1 (that is going to get you moving quickly)
2.99 x 3.15 9.418
2.15 x 3.15 6.772
1.77 x 3.15 5.575
1.52 x 3.15 4.778
1.28 x 3.15 4.032
1.00 x 3.15 3.15
0.85 x 3.15 2.677
0.69 x 3.15 2.173
0.64 x 3.15 2.016
so which one is going to give you better torque multiplication, shift faster, and allow you to pick a gear that is going to keep you in or just above the peak power range and not drop drop too far to quickly recover back to the peak power area (4700 to 5000, shift at 5200 to drop back into the bottom end of the power band)
now for the optional 3.55's
16.685
10.6145
7.6325
6.2835
5.396
4.544
3.55
3.017
2.449
2.272
now a 19' 275/40R19 tire has a diameter of 27.6"
3.15 gears, 5000 RPM's
first gear 27.75 MPH
43.61 mph in second
60.64 in third
73.66 in fourth
85.78 in 5th
101.86 in sixth
130.39 in seventh
153 in 8th, and that is theoretical and the car is speed limited to something like 165
189 in 9th, theoretical in a vacuum no speed limiter
213 in 10th, again theoretical, not counting drag and friction
3.55's @5000 RPM's
1 24.62 MPH
2 38.69 MPH
3 53.81 MPH
4 65.36 MPH
5 76.11 MPH
6 90.39 MPH
7 115.69 MPH
8 136.11 MPH
9 167.67 MPH
10 180.77 MPH
3.55's MANUAL transmission Tremec 6 speed @5000 RPM's
38.95 MPH
55.09 MPH
79.24 MPH
115.69 MPH
144.62 MPH
183.64 MPH
If you take the time to put this all in a chart I think you'll find the 10 speed with the 3.15's give the best performance when you are trying to keep the car in the power band
IMHO YMMV and anything past 7th gear in the Auto and 4th in the Tremec is an OD and you can forget making power in those gears, you'll eventually get to the limiter but once you cross 1:1 you do not have the benefit of torque multiplication