Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
You must be very tall.
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GeekGT5.0
Well-Known Member
Exactly. Could be worse, could be a bmw, paid twice as much and STILL have the rattles.
Turn it up, and put the hammer down.
Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
Sometimes I open my glovebox when I get tired of listening to the rattle.
GooberDH
Well-Known Member
1/8in thick Dynaliner. This video shows how to remove the door card:
My rattle was top of the door card while listening to music. Appeared when it got below freezing and never went away. The card hooks onto a piece of rubber/plastic trim at the base of the window which itself slides down onto the door. If you look into the gap the window sits between you'll see some velvety trim, the one closer inside the car is the trim piece I'm talking about. Since the door card just hooks onto that piece it rattled like hell with music for me.
I pulled my doors apart and installed Dynamat on the inside of the outer shell, for "fun" (it took 10 hours
). The real fix for rattles was Dynaliner. Remove door card, remove the trim piece it hooks onto at the base of the window (held on by friction/compression and three rubber pushpin-like moldings), apply Dynaliner to top edge wrapping it down about 2in, don't apply any into the window well or that trim piece won't sit flush, just on tippy top edge and down the side closer to the cabin. Put the trim piece back on, I had to gently hammer it down with my fist to compress the foam. Apply Dynaliner in the valley of that trim piece and down the side closer to the cabin. Basically you're sandwiching that piece between foam. Hang the door card back on, bolt it up, rattles with bass should be gone.
If you wanna be extra you can replace the factory foam strip with a wider piece of Dynaliner around the perimeter of the door card.
The trim I've been talking about don't know the name:
My rattle was top of the door card while listening to music. Appeared when it got below freezing and never went away. The card hooks onto a piece of rubber/plastic trim at the base of the window which itself slides down onto the door. If you look into the gap the window sits between you'll see some velvety trim, the one closer inside the car is the trim piece I'm talking about. Since the door card just hooks onto that piece it rattled like hell with music for me.
I pulled my doors apart and installed Dynamat on the inside of the outer shell, for "fun" (it took 10 hours
). The real fix for rattles was Dynaliner. Remove door card, remove the trim piece it hooks onto at the base of the window (held on by friction/compression and three rubber pushpin-like moldings), apply Dynaliner to top edge wrapping it down about 2in, don't apply any into the window well or that trim piece won't sit flush, just on tippy top edge and down the side closer to the cabin. Put the trim piece back on, I had to gently hammer it down with my fist to compress the foam. Apply Dynaliner in the valley of that trim piece and down the side closer to the cabin. Basically you're sandwiching that piece between foam. Hang the door card back on, bolt it up, rattles with bass should be gone.If you wanna be extra you can replace the factory foam strip with a wider piece of Dynaliner around the perimeter of the door card.
The trim I've been talking about don't know the name:
COBill
Well-Known Member
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Fun thing to say but an M2 and Dark Horse are effectively the same price.Exactly. Could be worse, could be a bmw, paid twice as much and STILL have the rattles.
Dark Sprite
Well-Known Member
I donāt know why people compare the BMW M2 to the Mustang, when the M4 is a much more comparable model. I guess whatever suits your argument at the timeā¦
COBill
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2025
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 157
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- 208
- Location
- Louisville, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- Toyota FJ Cruiser
Because they're basically the same price.
If you're shopping one, you should definitely test drive the other.
The M4 base price is about $7K more than the average Dark Horse config.
If you're shopping one, you should definitely test drive the other.
The M4 base price is about $7K more than the average Dark Horse config.
bgeviljim
Active Member
Iāve chased rattles around my convertibleā¦
I fixed A) havenāt got round to B)
A) Convertible problem only - but the material/solution I used could help some of you out?*
Where the first part of the roof folds, directly next to your head, two pieces of the plastic frame come together. Not close enough to be tight, not far enough to be silent.
* I used the āsoft sideā of some self-adhesive Velcro applied in the gap and fixed it instantly.
I recommend this material as something that is black, hard wearing, trim-able, and with strong self adhesive.
B) Where the trim around the passenger air vent meets the part of the dash above (all above the glovebox). This could be the source of rattles coming from the vaguely passenger side area.
I fixed A) havenāt got round to B)
A) Convertible problem only - but the material/solution I used could help some of you out?*
Where the first part of the roof folds, directly next to your head, two pieces of the plastic frame come together. Not close enough to be tight, not far enough to be silent.
* I used the āsoft sideā of some self-adhesive Velcro applied in the gap and fixed it instantly.
I recommend this material as something that is black, hard wearing, trim-able, and with strong self adhesive.
B) Where the trim around the passenger air vent meets the part of the dash above (all above the glovebox). This could be the source of rattles coming from the vaguely passenger side area.
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