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Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ?

JRONET

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Does anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? I use this on my ‘06 Mustang GT and like it. I have not seen it mentioned in the Forum and wonder if anyone else uses it. I am researching the ceramics and the prices of the professional applications are starting to scare me.
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Vapor Blue GT

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Does anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? I use this on my ‘06 Mustang GT and like it. I have not seen it mentioned in the Forum and wonder if anyone else uses it. I am researching the ceramics and the prices of the professional applications are starting to scare me.
I have no personal experience with that brand. However, there are quite a few user friendly ceramic coatings you can do yourself. If you can wax a car you can apply many ceramics. It’s not as scary as most people think. Polishing is very simple too.
 

roadpilot

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I have no personal experience with that brand. However, there are quite a few user friendly ceramic coatings you can do yourself. If you can wax a car you can apply many ceramics. It’s not as scary as most people think. Polishing is very simple too.
It's scary if you don't paint correct or get all the swirls, scuffs, and other crap out of the top/clearcoat. If you don't, you're sealing all of that in permanently.
 

DFB5.0

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It's scary if you don't paint correct or get all the swirls, scuffs, and other crap out of the top/clearcoat. If you don't, you're sealing all of that in permanently.
Considering a ceramic coating will last years, compared to a few months for a wax, yes, it's important to get the car polished and corrected before application. But coatings are not permanent, so at the very least, you are locking the paint for 2 to 3 years.

I actually had to deal with something like this recently. I have the Jaguar coated with Gyeon Pure EVO, a 3+ year coating applied two years ago. At the last wash, I noticed some quite nasty scratches on the trunk, almost like something landed on the paint. I spot polished the affected area, but ended up having to polish the whole panel because of a pronounced side by side difference in color. I ended up applying a spray sealant to the trunk to tide me over to the next major detail.

The tricky and annoying thing is the cost and effort that goes into a ceramic coating. Then something like the above happens and what would have been a quick and easy problem to address turns into quite the saga. I can't help thinking a wax is so much easier to manage than a drama queen ceramic coating.

I contemplate the above while waiting for my S650 to be built. I was all set to coat the new car in Gyeon Mohs EVO for its above average slickness and ease of application. However...............................I'm now seriously considering a return to wax. Longevity is not really a main concern of mine. I really like how Collinite 845 looks and feels on Race Red, so I know its a proven winner and doesn't require kid gloves to deal with.

S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? oct209
 

Vapor Blue GT

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It's scary if you don't paint correct or get all the swirls, scuffs, and other crap out of the top/clearcoat. If you don't, you're sealing all of that in permanently.
One thing to remember is you nor will anyone get a cars paint 100% swirl/marring/scratch free with a few exceptions. I’ve only seen a handful of cars that I couldn’t see a flaw and those paint jobs were probably as expensive as some cars I’ve owned over the years and had multiple layers of clear coat applied and then buffed and polished to perfection. There will always be a flaw or flaws some where. Factory clear coat is too thin to get 100% award winning paint. You can make it look really great but at what cost to your clear coat thickness. As mentioned above, go with a good wax or spray sealant.

I did ceramic to see how I’d like it when it comes to ease of cleaning and for UV protection. The car is mostly garage kept so the UV isn’t as important as I originally thought but it doesn’t hurt. So far I love it, it was fun to apply. Washing is a breeze, better than anything else I’ve tried but again it gets washed weekly and sometimes only driven once in awhile. Was it overkill, probably as a good sealant or wax reapplied every 6 months would suffice.
 


Logan

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Mr JRONET:
I am personally not a fan of ceramic coating, much for reasons mentioned above. Attached is a photo of one of my cars which has not been waxed at least 8 years from taking picture. I just finished washing it by hand. I use Maguire's products only. Of course the paint is not a factory paint job. I had all door handles and emblems removed. Looks nice. But this was done early 99 truck was only 6 months old when I had work done.i does get rained on if I'm caught in it. Only used in snow for one winter. Not been waxed afterwards. Only hand washed and Maguire's Quick Detailer between hand wash. Hope this helps in your decision making

S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? IMG_20200717_200212888


S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? IMG_20200717_200146890_HDR
 

roadpilot

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One thing to remember is you nor will anyone get a cars paint 100% swirl/marring/scratch free with a few exceptions.
Of course not. But 95% or 98% correction is far better than 0% correction before applying a ceramic coat that locks those imperfections and damage in for many, many years.

2-3 years might be it for cheaper ceramic coatings. IGL Kenzo is warrantied for 5 years if applied by a certified installer. That means they will fix it, even if you're at 4.75 years. That's what I'm having done.

Full IGL Kenzo is $525. $125 for decon wash and $200 for one-step paint correction. That's $900. It's well worth $180 a year for that. Plus, if you actually maintain it properly and your car doesn't live outside 24x7, it will last many, many times longer than 5 years.

Ceramic coatings provide much higher durability than waxes, resisting heat, UV rays, environmental contaminants, and detergents much better than wax. Ceramic isn't just laying on top of your paint, wheels, glass, and trim - it's bonding to it at a molecular level.

With all due respect, anyone who thinks wax is equal to ceramic coating in protecting a vehicle is only fooling themself.
 

Vapor Blue GT

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Of course not. But 95% or 98% correction is far better than 0% correction before applying a ceramic coat that locks those imperfections and damage in for many, many years.

2-3 years might be it for cheaper ceramic coatings. IGL Kenzo is warrantied for 5 years if applied by a certified installer. That means they will fix it, even if you're at 4.75 years. That's what I'm having done.

Full IGL Kenzo is $525. $125 for decon wash and $200 for one-step paint correction. That's $900. It's well worth $180 a year for that. Plus, if you actually maintain it properly and your car doesn't live outside 24x7, it will last many, many times longer than 5 years.

Ceramic coatings provide much higher durability than waxes, resisting heat, UV rays, environmental contaminants, and detergents much better than wax. Ceramic isn't just laying on top of your paint, wheels, glass, and trim - it's bonding to it at a molecular level.

With all due respect, anyone who thinks wax is equal to ceramic coating in protecting a vehicle is only fooling themself.
You are correct on waxes not equivalent to ceramics. Some waxes are infused with UV inhibitors, graphene and ceramics which are more protective than regular paste wax.

Some don’t like the risk of applying a coating or want to pay someone to do it. Me personally I’d never pay to have it done since I’m comfortable doing it myself. I do understand it is a needed option for people to have it done. I don’t have the time to take my cars to someone for maintenance washes and whatnot. I feel the same about people who get their cars detailed. I don’t have the time to wait nor will pay for something I can do and enjoy. It is a need as many people get this done on a regular basis. I’m just happy we are getting products that are quality for our paint
 

roadpilot

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Some waxes are infused with UV inhibitors, graphene and ceramics which are more protective than regular paste wax.
I specifically asked the installer about "graphene". You know what he told me? When it comes to thin automotive coatings, "graphene" is a marketing term, just like "military grade".

I found this: Graphene is real, but graphene in thin film hand applied coatings is 100% a marketing term.

Some don’t like the risk of applying a coating or want to pay someone to do it. Me personally I’d never pay to have it done since I’m comfortable doing it myself. I do understand it is a needed option for people to have it done.
Long ago, I decided that, if I could make the money in the same amount of time it would take me to do it myself, I'm going to pay someone else do it (provided they are reputable).

I don’t have the time to take my cars to someone for maintenance washes and whatnot.
If your car is ceramic coated, you don't have to take it to someone for maintenance or washings. No idea who told you that. You simply have to use the correct product to wash (one that won't break down the ceramic coating) and keep your car clean (i.e., don't let dirt, mud, or other contaminant remain on the vehicle). Wash every couple of weeks or so, that's it. The only thing my installer told me was to bring it back once a year (during the warranty period) just so he can inspect it to make sure something isn't going wrong. This way, they can address it before it gets bad.
 

timd38

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I am retired and have lots of free time. I use Turtle Wax "1 and Done" ceramic that has a light abrasive in it to help polish out the imperfections, then two days later apply their Max Graphene. Is it the best ceramic, no, but it is relatively easy to use. relatively cheap and my cars look great. I use a Milwaukee M18 orbital buffer to apply both products,

Just my opinion.
S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? 1711468560436-wn
S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? 1711468713465-ek


S650 Mustang Anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? 1711468644297-gk
 

Vapor Blue GT

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I specifically asked the installer about "graphene". You know what he told me? When it comes to thin automotive coatings, "graphene" is a marketing term, just like "military grade".

I found this: Graphene is real, but graphene in thin film hand applied coatings is 100% a marketing term.

Long ago, I decided that, if I could make the money in the same amount of time it would take me to do it myself, I'm going to pay someone else do it (provided they are reputable).

If your car is ceramic coated, you don't have to take it to someone for maintenance or washings. No idea who told you that. You simply have to use the correct product to wash (one that won't break down the ceramic coating) and keep your car clean (i.e., don't let dirt, mud, or other contaminant remain on the vehicle). Wash every couple of weeks or so, that's it. The only thing my installer told me was to bring it back once a year (during the warranty period) just so he can inspect it to make sure something isn't going wrong. This way, they can address it before it gets bad.
Graphene forms water molecules into a tighter bond to help shed water. It’s just another form of ceramic but it’s a little harder. You’ll notice it on the same panel in a side by side comparison.

I’m surprised your warranty doesn’t require you to take it in for maintenance washes. Not properly washing and or with the wrong products shortens the life. I will hit mine with a decon soap every 6 months or so to keep the coating clean.

I’m also curious how he inspects the coating? Did he explain that to you? Maybe just washes it or hits it with water to see how it reacts on the clear coat. There’s no other way I know of to inspect it.
 

roadpilot

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Graphene forms water molecules into a tighter bond to help shed water. It’s just another form of ceramic but it’s a little harder. You’ll notice it on the same panel in a side by side comparison.
My understanding, and per that article I linked to from Feynlab (developer and manufacturer of product used for enhancing and protecting auto, marine, aircraft, and industrial finishes), graphene requires a THICK layer (~100 microns) to incorporate it, which is why a thin, hand applied coating has no real graphene protection. It is often used as an additive to a base, but you're not getting the protection that graphene COULD provide in a proper thickness when it comes to thin automotive application.

I’m surprised your warranty doesn’t require you to take it in for maintenance washes. Not properly washing and or with the wrong products shortens the life. I will hit mine with a decon soap every 6 months or so to keep the coating clean.

I’m also curious how he inspects the coating? Did he explain that to you? Maybe just washes it or hits it with water to see how it reacts on the clear coat. There’s no other way I know of to inspect it.
I can't tell you. All I can tell you is he said he will sell (or ID) the correct products to use and wants to see it once a year. They are a very reputable shop in our area, and the product has a 5-year manufacturer warranty.
 

Vapor Blue GT

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My understanding, and per that article I linked to from Feynlab (developer and manufacturer of product used for enhancing and protecting auto, marine, aircraft, and industrial finishes), graphene requires a THICK layer (~100 microns) to incorporate it, which is why a thin, hand applied coating has no real graphene protection. It is often used as an additive to a base, but you're not getting the protection that graphene COULD provide in a proper thickness when it comes to thin automotive application.

I can't tell you. All I can tell you is he said he will sell (or ID) the correct products to use and wants to see it once a year. They are a very reputable shop in our area, and the product has a 5-year manufacturer warranty.
You won’t get the proper protection of anything on a thinner application whether it’s graphene or ceramic. It’s been proven by plenty of tests that it does add benefits to whatever you are adding it too. Do companies use it as marketing, sure, because we really don’t need it. We really don’t need ceramic coating either. Wax is plenty for 99% of people. The ceramic just aids is easier washings, a little better protection against chemical attacks and some slickness.

That’s good on the warranty and that they tell you what you should use. Hopefully people actually use them and protect their investment. That’s a lot of money into a cars paint.
 

roadpilot

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We really don’t need ceramic coating either. Wax is plenty for 99% of people. The ceramic just aids is easier washings, a little better protection against chemical attacks and some slickness.
Wax vs ceramic coating: There is a difference. Even you admitted it a few posts ago "You are correct on waxes not equivalent to ceramics." Wax does not bond molecularly, while ceramic does. That's like the difference between laying a piece of paper over something versus gluing it to the surface - far less chance something compromises or comes between the two if using the latter process.

You won’t get the proper protection of anything on a thinner application whether it’s graphene or ceramic.
Ceramic != graphene. If ceramic did nothing, they would not use it.

It’s been proven by plenty of tests that it does add benefits to whatever you are adding it too.
Graphene in a thin automotive application does nothing. It's all marketing. I've provided my citation from a developer and manufacturer of coatings. I don't know what else to say.

Your car, your money, your choice. Or not.

Best of luck! I'm done.
 

JoesProGTO

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Does anyone use Top Coat F-11 Pro Polish and Sealer ? I use this on my ‘06 Mustang GT and like it. I have not seen it mentioned in the Forum and wonder if anyone else uses it. I am researching the ceramics and the prices of the professional applications are starting to scare me.
I use F11 Topcoat on my pro streeter (has a 27 year old paint job on it). It works well to shine up the paint before car shows, but doesn’t last long. I had my new Mustang ceramic coated (Ceramic Pro). As everyone is saying, the paint prep is crucial!!
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