Anyone changed gear lube in Torsen 3:55 rear end? -- What gear lube and weight? Friction modifer?

[JS1951]

What gear lube and weight? Did you add the friction modifer?

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[Dena]

Should be page 380 in the first printing of the manual. If you don't want to pay for a rear axle rebuild, you should follow the specifications for fluid replacement. If you have the 5.0, it takes a lot of abuse and manufactures are pretty careful about selecting lubricants that will go the distance.

 

[06mach1]

torsen diffs do not require the use of friction modifier.

 

[Zig]

Wait… what? Already?

 

[Skye]

Unless you're doing something very unique, I'd leave things as-is and wait.

The factory fill should support you just fine. No one has reported issues with the oil or pumpkin. No one has reported any advantages if replacing so early. While the internals of the diff are seating and wearing, the conditions are not the same as within an engine (more extreme heat cycles, exposure to gases and fuel).

IF you think you have a problem, I'd go directly to the dealer and discuss, while under warranty. Otherwise, I wouldn't touch it.

In the mean time, sure, read up on what others have done, products they've used, tools they've needed.

FWIW, I've got a 3.73 Torsen. Other than checking for leaks soon after taking receipt and occasionally during break-in, I've never touched it. Works flawlessly.

 

[Iceman28]

At 700 miles I changed the engine oil and had the mechanic pull the fill plugs on the tranny and diff to make sure they were full. They were, but the diff had 3 metal chips on the plug. The mechanic said to bring it back at 1500 miles to change the fluid. At 1500 miles he drained the diff, the fluid was dark gray to black which he said was due to the clutch pack breaking in. He shined a flashlight on the fluid and there was a whole lot of glitter. I replaced the fluid with Castrol GL5 lube. That will be in there for 500 miles and then will be replaced for good with Redline GL5 lube. I think the gearbox probably has a lot of metal in the lube from all those gears meshing. I'm researching which lube to put in it.

 

[JS1951]

Unless you're doing something very unique, I'd leave things as-is and wait.

The factory fill should support you just fine. No one has reported issues with the oil or pumpkin. No one has reported any advantages if replacing so early. While the internals of the diff are seating and wearing, the conditions are not the same as within an engine (more extreme heat cycles, exposure to gases and fuel).

IF you think you have a problem, I'd go directly to the dealer and discuss, while under warranty. Otherwise, I wouldn't touch it.

In the mean time, sure, read up on what others have done, products they've used, tools they've needed.

FWIW, I've got a 3.73 Torsen. Other than checking for leaks soon after taking receipt and occasionally during break-in, I've never touched it. Works flawlessly.

Changed mine at 4050 miles. Magnets were full. Zoom in on pic and see the thikness of iron wear. Oil was jet black, thought it was FM, no it was ferrous meter too, xl-3 is green. Amazing how much wear. The 85 weight from factory was more viscous than anticipated. Surprisingly the 90 weight runs cooler??

 

[JS1951]

Changed mine at 4050 miles. Magnets were full. Zoom in on pic and see the thikness of iron wear. Oil was jet black, thought it was FM, no it was ferrous meter too, xl-3 is green. Amazing how much wear. The 85 weight from factory was more viscous than anticipated. Surprisingly the 90 weight runs cooler??

Changed mine at 4050 miles. Magnets were full. Zoom in on pic and see the thikness of iron wear. Oil was jet black, thought it was FM, no it was ferrous meter too, xl-3 is green. Amazing how much wear. The 85 weight from factory was more viscous than anticipated. Surprisingly the 90 weight runs cooler??

 

[JS1951]

Sorry pics won't post. Bottom line change fluid especially since it only holds 1.6 it's and it is so cheap and easy to do.

 

[RLE55]

torsen diffs do not require the use of friction modifier.

I used Lucas Syn. gear oil, 75w140 and Ford friction modifier when changing the gear oil in my Torsen T-2R. Owner's manual list it as well for the S650.

 

[Zig]

Sorry pics won't post. Bottom line change fluid especially since it only holds 1.6 it's and it is so cheap and easy to do.

Try jpgs

 

[JS1951]

Sorry pics won't post. Bottom line change fluid especially since it only holds 1.6 it's and it is so cheap and easy to do.

trying to upload from tablet.

Try jpgs

 

[JS1951]

Upload

 

[JS1951]

Upload

Try jpgs

 

[nashbridges]

I used Lucas Syn. gear oil, 75w140 and Ford friction modifier when changing the gear oil in my Torsen T-2R. Owner's manual list it as well for the S650.

Why 75w140 over a 75w85 or 75w90?

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