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I think a pedal commander would Help, the factory throttle input lag is the issue, spend a day flooring it around town, it may not be the gearing like you believe

Before the cars roll off the line they are driven over dyno rollers and floored flat out to run through the gears, then after they leave CAL line sub contractors hop in them and go WOT basically down the backroads and park them. then you buy it at the dealer and want to worry about break in …

There is probably 10,000 trouble free units to every 1 story like this. I still don’t understand what exactly is being complained about…. Like DFU Mean no slippery mode??

Looks chonky and out of round, is that the temu 1 for 600?

Go stage 2, you’ll want rear axles upgraded as driver side is likely to snap, Mt82 will be the weak link after that. Keep your octane up, unleaded race gas if you’re gonna be thrashing it hard back to back, or E30 with a BAP the kit comes with colder plugs, and no pop n drop piston/rod kits...

I did just the steeda cradle bushings and locating dowels, also lowered the car… zero wheel hop with those 3 was in my buddy’s GT500 and I couldn’t believe how bad that hopped and chattered, tried telling him he has got to look into those parts

I wouldn’t jump through too many hoops for “warranty” if the car has a thousand or so miles nothing catastrophic is likely to happen from a manufacturer defect. And the stage 1 is tame… bolt it on, let it rip and move on with life… if you eat a rod or 10r80 just get a new aluminator short...

Shop other estimates and tell them you’re paying out of pocket, a lot of time they are running the numbers up to cover paying deductible and maximum insurance billing

Op… had similar happen to my daily driver. eat the cost out of pocket and keep cheap premiums, sucks but that’s life

My tick came after my 2nd oil change, but it’s a pain to even try and hear, you have to put the car in quiet mode, let it idle down and lean forward with the windows rolled down in park, next to a wall… and when the wind stops blowing and no birds chirp… then you can faintly hear it audible

The only gains will be from trans tuning and raising a few hundred rpm up top. the trans tuning on the whipple is so incredible, makes sport mode just so damn snappy even cruising around, and they reduced throttle input lag…. It such a perfect tune it’s worth the extra couple of bucks to put...

No, I’m running the jones max flow dual 3” muffler as my resonator, into my stock active exhaust

I don’t think that would pass US standards, but very cool car, looks a little too kit car for the money

Sounds crazy expensive, the install is not bad at all, if you insist on a dealer install I’d get a quote from Lebanon as they’re the only name I know that build whipple OEM cars with any kind of volume pricing

@Swan City Mustang I did a cold start vid This is off road longtubes, into the jones max flow 3” resonator/muffler, into factory active on quiet

I just got a. Update but no new gauges 😖

I just did a search, ok now… those cars are expensive AF!! 67K plus TTL is the cheapest listed nationwide…

I don’t follow them close enough, Why do I only see fast M4s I wonder now.. are there M2s in the 7s?, i think there is several M4s, and countless in the 8s

great question, is the S58 engine in the M2 now? I’ve yet to see any quick M2s at the track or On the street… I’ve seen countless M4s with a down pipe and E30’tune run whipple coyote numbers if the S58 engine is in the newer M2s maybe they’ll start to show out this year

If….and I mean IF…. I went to the Germans…. M4 comp X drive or bust…. Buying an M2 is basically signing up for “why didn’t you just get the M4” regret as long as you own it.