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Yamazuki

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Any recommendations? I believe these are grade 8 bolts.
Since the bolt is metric, it is actually going to be 10.9 or better. The number should be stamped right into the head of the bolt.
Comparatively speaking however, 10.9 is generally considered the metric equivalent to SAE grade 8.

As far as recommendations for an EZ-out, sorry, I don't have any other than to reiterate that I think you're going to be farther ahead by drilling out the bolt as it is. You're still going to have to drill a hole in the bolt to even try the EZ-out, and if that thing then breaks off they are a mofo to try and drill out!
 
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klopklop

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Since the bolt is metric, it is actually going to be 10.9 or better. The number should be stamped right into the head of the bolt.
Comparatively speaking however, 10.9 is generally considered the metric equivalent to SAE grade 8.

As far as recommendations for an EZ-out, sorry, I don't have any other than to reiterate that I think you're going to be farther ahead by drilling out the bolt as it is. You're still going to have to drill a hole in the bolt to even try the EZ-out, and if that thing then breaks off they are a mofo to try and drill out!
So its a M10 bolt. Are you saying I should use a drill bit and drill out the hole? What drill bit size should I use and if I do this, what happens to the threads in the hole?
 

Yamazuki

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So its a M10 bolt. Are you saying I should use a drill bit and drill out the hole? What drill bit size should I use and if I do this, what happens to the threads in the hole?
Unfortunately, the threads in the hole are probably already damaged to the point of not being salvageable. If they weren't already damaged, the bolt should not have broke.

Start with something like 1/4" and go all the way through the bolt, then you can go up to the final size.

A 3/8's drill bit is going to be just ever so slightly smaller than 10mm, so you could try that next. A 10mm bolt isn't going to go through a 3/8 hole, but if you can get your hole perfectly centered and drilled straight all the way through the broken off bolt, you may be able to peel what's left out of the threads and see what kind of damage has been done. I've never been that good, or lucky enough to do that myself.

Ideally you're probably going to want to find a 10mm drill bit, and depending on what it looks like on the backside of whatever the bolt was going into, will determine what's going to work for repairing it. The easiest would be if you can get a longer bolt in there and put a nut on it. Preferably self locking, or red lock-tite the hell out of it.
 
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klopklop

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Unfortunately, the threads in the hole are probably already damaged to the point of not being salvageable. If they weren't already damaged, the bolt should not have broke.

Start with something like 1/4" and go all the way through the bolt, then you can go up to the final size.

A 3/8's drill bit is going to be just ever so slightly smaller than 10mm, so you could try that next. A 10mm bolt isn't going to go through a 3/8 hole, but if you can get your hole perfectly centered and drilled straight all the way through the broken off bolt, you may be able to peel what's left out of the threads and see what kind of damage has been done. I've never been that good, or lucky enough to do that myself.

Ideally you're probably going to want to find a 10mm drill bit, and depending on what it looks like on the backside of whatever the bolt was going into, will determine what's going to work for repairing it. The easiest would be if you can get a longer bolt in there and put a nut on it. Preferably self locking, or red lock-tite the hell out of it.
Is it possible to use a tap to fix threads if I can get the bolt out and the threads are messed up?
 


Yamazuki

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Is it possible to use a tap to fix threads if I can get the bolt out and the threads are messed up?

I guess I should have asked rather than assuming based on the photos in your opening post.

Did the bolt go in hard and break before going in all the way, or was it in all the way and just over tightened?

Based on the photos, it appears that it broke before it was all the way in.
 
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klopklop

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I guess I should have asked rather than assuming based on the photos in your opening post.

Did the bolt go in hard and break before going in all the way, or was it in all the way and just over tightened?

Based on the photos, it appears that it broke before it was all the way in.
Correct it broke before it got all the way in. Its probably in 3/4 of the way
 

Yamazuki

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Correct it broke before it got all the way in. Its probably in 3/4 of the way
Okay. Just wanted to make sure.

So back to your question about tapping the threads to repair them.
The problem here is that the hole is almost certainly cross threaded. When this happens, the bolt is essentially cutting new threads in the hole, and when it does this it's cutting through or across the original threads causing a lot of damage to them. You could try to re-thread the hole with a tap once the bolt is out; but unless you go up a size on the bolt it probably wont be as strong of a fix as it should be.
 
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klopklop

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Okay. Just wanted to make sure.

So back to your question about tapping the threads to repair them.
The problem here is that the hole is almost certainly cross threaded. When this happens, the bolt is essentially cutting new threads in the hole, and when it does this it's cutting through or across the original threads causing a lot of damage to them. You could try to re-thread the hole with a tap once the bolt is out; but unless you go up a size on the bolt it probably wont be as strong of a fix as it should be.
are you saying I can try tap with a m10 tap but I would have to use a bigger bolt like m12?
 

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are you saying I can try tap with a m10 tap but I would have to use a bigger bolt like m12?
If you want to try and save the original threads, the drill bit you use to drill the bolt out will need to be the recommended size for a 10mm tap, or smaller. I just don't think there will be enough material left in the hole, once the bolt is out, to re-tap the hole at 10mm and be strong enough to hold what it needs to.

In order for it to be strong enough, you're going to need to either drill and tap for the next size up bolt, do some kind of thread repair to keep it at 10mm, or put a nut on the back side.

Those Keen-serts work! I've used them to repair threads for engine cylinder head bolts.
 
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klopklop

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If you want to try and save the original threads, the drill bit you use to drill the bolt out will need to be the recommended size for a 10mm tap, or smaller. I just don't think there will be enough material left in the hole, once the bolt is out, to re-tap the hole at 10mm and be strong enough to hold what it needs to.

In order for it to be strong enough, you're going to need to either drill and tap for the next size up bolt, do some kind of thread repair to keep it at 10mm, or put a nut on the back side.

Those Keen-serts work! I've used them to repair threads for engine cylinder head bolts.
Ive seen similar thread inserts on amazon for m10 size bolts. So if I were to use those would that work? The original bolt is like 30mm in length the inserts are not that long though, would it still work?

S650 Mustang I might have messed up IMG_1237
 

Yamazuki

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Ive seen similar thread inserts on amazon for m10 size bolts. So if I were to use those would that work? The original bolt is like 30mm in length the inserts are not that long though, would it still work?

IMG_1237.webp
Those are Heli-coil type. They're kind of like threading a slinky into the hole.

The keen-serts are more like a bolt with a hole through the center of it.
 
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klopklop

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Those are Heli-coil type. They're kind of like threading a slinky into the hole.

The keen-serts are more like a bolt with a hole through the center of it.
Thx ill look into those. They would stay in place?
 
 








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