iDatalink Maestro A2B Amplifier Replacement Module

[SteveinKG]

Has anyone here any experience with one of these?
It appears these are fairly straightforward (with the correct harness, of course) and would be an easy plug and play install. I thought i might try one of these idatalinks, coupled with a 6 channel 900 (or so) watt amplifier. I would then wait to see how it sounded before I made a decision to swap out the door speakers. I have already swapped out the OEM sub with a Polk Audio DB 1042 DVC.
I'm not an audiophile, but have some experience with installing basic audio, so my confidence level in completing this installation is high.
Is a 900 or so watt amp enough, or should I be looking for something with a little more than the OEM wattage? It looks like, with some mapping, I can retain full audio control/settings with the idatalink. That being said, I need enough wattage to power everything.
Also, does the OEM sub power every speaker, or just a select few?
Any suggestions/input would be greatly appreciated.

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[Fruitstang]

Get the PAC Audio AmpPRO AP4-FD31.
True plug & play (driver side in trunk) with necessary harness included.
Will get 6 channels cinch preout + remote out and speaker cables for front woofers, mids, center, rears and main sub.
Fader, balance etc. will work.
It has also an optical digital out, but then Fader will not work.
Only thing you need to do is either connect the a pillar tweeters with a separate cable to the mids in the doors, or route the new cables to the rear where you place the new amp.

I kept the original speakers and use an 8 channel DSP-Amp from Helix and it's a day and night difference.

 

[SteveinKG]

Get the PAC Audio AmpPRO AP4-FD31.
True plug & play (driver side in trunk) with necessary harness included.
Will get 6 channels cinch preout + remote out and speaker cables for front woofers, mids, center, rears and main sub.
Fader, balance etc. will work.
It has also an optical digital out, but then Fader will not work.
Only thing you need to do is either connect the a pillar tweeters with a separate cable to the mids in the doors, or route the new cables to the rear where you place the new amp.

I kept the original speakers and use an 8 channel DSP-Amp from Helix and it's a day and night difference.

Thank you, i appreciate the suggestions. The one thing I most do not want to do, is have to run additional/hook up wiring: I am hoping I can just plug and play from where the original amp is located (LH rear quarter) and everything else from the head unit work exactly as it does now. This is one helluv'n expensive way to do it, but I am willing if I can do it with a simple swap of an amp and an amp interface.

 

[HWill]

I have used a similar device (NAV-TV ZEN-A2B) on my F150.

A2B interface is the proper way to install a system.

The iDatalink doesn't list a model for the 24 Mustang, The PAC as stated from Fruitstang does, and everything they state is true.

The PAC is $329 on Crutchfield, that is a lot cheaper than what I paid for the ZEN A2B.

I'm pretty sure in my F150 the tweeters are powered by the head unit and everything else is ran off an external amp.
If this is the case with the Mustang and you are looking to get the best sound you will need to run the wires from the tweeters to the new amp.

 

[SteveinKG]

I know this depicts a truck, but in the description it states it is for 2017+ Ford vehicles with the B&O system. According to the video, everything is run from the amp. I sent the Idatalink people an email, and will see what they have to say as far as the OEM amp powering al of the speakers. But according to the video, it looks like this module would even be able to read the head unit output for speakers?

 

[Fruitstang]

The PAC is simple plug and play at the exact location of the original amp.
You need to connect some wires to a new amp whatever solution you choose and these wires are also at the original amp location.
Only the tweeters are for whatever reason connected to the head unit.
You could let the head unit do the job for them, but it makes zero sense because the equalizing of the new DSP wouldn't have any effect on them.
Running their wires directly to the door mids would require more effort than just run them to the location of the new amp and either connect them to the same output of the new amp or to a separate one depending on the number of channels the amp will have.
Absolutely no big deal.

 

[Decible]

Get the PAC Audio AmpPRO AP4-FD31.
True plug & play (driver side in trunk) with necessary harness included.
Will get 6 channels cinch preout + remote out and speaker cables for front woofers, mids, center, rears and main sub.
Fader, balance etc. will work.
It has also an optical digital out, but then Fader will not work.
Only thing you need to do is either connect the a pillar tweeters with a separate cable to the mids in the doors, or route the new cables to the rear where you place the new amp.

I kept the original speakers and use an 8 channel DSP-Amp from Helix and it's a day and night difference.

I’m thinking of using the v12 12 channel dsp amp for a full active system and running my subs off my JL 1200/1. How do you like the Helix amp?

 

[SteveinKG]

The PAC is simple plug and play at the exact location of the original amp.
You need to connect some wires to a new amp whatever solution you choose and these wires are also at the original amp location.
Only the tweeters are for whatever reason connected to the head unit.
You could let the head unit do the job for them, but it makes zero sense because the equalizing of the new DSP wouldn't have any effect on them.
Running their wires directly to the door mids would require more effort than just run them to the location of the new amp and either connect them to the same output of the new amp or to a separate one depending on the number of channels the amp will have.
Absolutely no big deal.

Thank you. I am understanding a little better now.

 

[SteveinKG]

So, I took yinz' advice and got the PAC Audio Amp PRO AP4-FD31 and went with the Alpine R-890S six channel amp. I have already run the hotwire, removed the OEM amp and secured one end of the ground. Should not take long once I get going this Friday.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[Interstellar]

Can someone explain what this does? Just increases power to speakers?

 

[Mr Hyde]

Can someone explain what this does? Just increases power to speakers?

Lets you retain the factory features like nav voice chimes and volume controls and provide a clean low level input to an after market amp

 

[Mustang8]

So, I took yinz' advice and got the PAC Audio Amp PRO AP4-FD31 and went with the Alpine R-890S six channel amp. I have already run the hotwire, removed the OEM amp and secured one end of the ground. Should not take long once I get going this Friday.
Thanks for the advice.

How'd it turn out?

 

[SteveinKG]

How'd it turn out?

Well, the OEM speakers are most certainly more vibrant! However, I have decided I will replace the OEM speakers; I am in the middle of deciding which aftermarket speakers I am going to buy. I have always had good luck with Kickers, and I am looking at their top tier KS series (51KSC6504 and KSC350). I have an Alpine R-A90S amplifier for the speakers and an older Boss 1100 watt Monoblock for the two subs I have in the back (one is a RF and the other - in the OEM sub box - is a Polk).
The PAC component seems to be working as it should as I have retained all the chimes, speakers (except the two pillar tweeters) , equalizer, etc. that I know of.
People have said not to worry about replacing the two rear deck speakers as they are just for filler; but I think I am going to replace them anyway, with the same as the door speakers (51KSC6504). I'm not much of an audiophile, but I hope all of this turns out sounding half decent. If Testament and Dio come loud and clear with some good bass, then I'm all set.

 

[HWill]

Well, the OEM speakers are most certainly more vibrant! However, I have decided I will replace the OEM speakers; I am in the middle of deciding which aftermarket speakers I am going to buy. I have always had good luck with Kickers, and I am looking at their top tier KS series (51KSC6504 and KSC350). I have an Alpine R-A90S amplifier for the speakers and an older Boss 1100 watt Monoblock for the two subs I have in the back (one is a RF and the other - in the OEM sub box - is a Polk).
The PAC component seems to be working as it should as I have retained all the chimes, speakers (except the two pillar tweeters) , equalizer, etc. that I know of.
People have said not to worry about replacing the two rear deck speakers as they are just for filler; but I think I am going to replace them anyway, with the same as the door speakers (51KSC6504). I'm not much of an audiophile, but I hope all of this turns out sounding half decent. If Testament and Dio come loud and clear with some good bass, then I'm all set.

I'd agree to leave the rear deck speakers and use that money to get better fronts.

 

[Fruitstang]

Before you spend any money on new speakers, get a DSP or an amplifier with integrated DSP.
Only this will allow you to set time alignment and equalization for each speaker individually.
Only this is the basis for whatever speaker you use.
I am an audiophile and can assure you that the speakers of the B&O system will sound absolutely acceptable, night and day difference.

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