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roket

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What you will need:
  • - 7mm socket
  • - 8mm socket
  • - 10mm socket
  • - T20 bit
  • - Body clip removal tool
  • - Something that can cut in small areas (like wire stripper-cutters)

Directions:

1. Pop off the air filter cover. this is done with 2 small clips in the front of the cover. they are very easy to remove and replace.
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144262136


2. Take out the black 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the air box. it really only has resistance for a small distance, then can be undone by hand
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144285170


3. Loosen the clamp on the air filter. it has an 8mm bolt to loosen it, then take the filter off completely

4. Loosen the clamp holding the intake tube onto the throttle body. it has a 7mm bolt to loosen it

5. Disconnect the crankcase hose. Driver side has a blue clip that you reach under, pull it towards the front of the vehicle, and pull the hose off. Passenger side has a black push button that you push in and pull the hose off
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144338389
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144355948


6. Unplug the mass airflow sensor and pop off the anchor holding the wire to the intake tube with a body clip removal tool. remove the intake tube from the throttle body, then unscrew the two T20 screws and pull out the mass airflow sensor. you will bend the "fins" on the anchor, there is nothing you can do about it and it will work fine after re-installation
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144431486


7. At the end of the tube where the filter attaches, there should be a sort of plastic grate that makes an "H" shape. This is an insert and on either side of the insert there are little clips. pull them inwards at the same time and pull the insert out
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144454586


8. Further in the tube is a 3-spoke structure holding the hydrocarbon filter in place. use the cutting tool of your choice to cut each of those spokes as close as you are comfortable with to the base on the outside of the tube

9. Put your hand in the small end of the tube and push the filter out. then repeat what you did for step 8 on the second 3-spoke structure
S650 Mustang DIY: how to remove hydrocarbon filters from 2024 Mustang GT / Dark Horse 1694144513288


10. Re-install the tube, doing steps 1-6 in reverse. NOTE: the mass airflow sensor has a small arrow on it. that arrow is to be pointing the direction of air travel towards the throttle body. Repeat all steps for the other side
Sponsored

 
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Lidsoff

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You’re the bomb for this. First thing I’m doing when I bring the girl home.
 

Dena

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There is a potential problem with this modification. When you get your smog test, they may check to make sure the filter is in place. People have removed the catalytic converter and sometimes even get away with it for a while. Then one of the inspectors does their job correctly and finds it's missing. Needless to say, you don't pass inspection until everything is restored to factory specifications.
 

Dena

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what does this actually do?
When you shut the engine off, there are still hydrocarbon vapors floating around in the engine. The EPA feels they will leave the engine through the air intake. The filter will catch them and hold them until the running engine will draw them back in and burn them. There has been a similar system on your fuel tank for years. When the car isn't running, fumes from the fuel are absorbed by a activated carbon filter. When the the engine runs, it draws air through the filter so they can be burned and the filter is cleaned of the fuel it captured.
 


LETHAL

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There is a potential problem with this modification. When you get your smog test, they may check to make sure the filter is in place. People have removed the catalytic converter and sometimes even get away with it for a while. Then one of the inspectors does their job correctly and finds it's missing. Needless to say, you don't pass inspection until everything is restored to factory specifications.
Highly doubt they will be disassembling the air intake system to check. Much less Joe wrench even knows about them to look. Maybe in Nazi Cali or NY but..
 

SoggyBottomBoy

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When you shut the engine off, there are still hydrocarbon vapors floating around in the engine. The EPA feels they will leave the engine through the air intake. The filter will catch them and hold them until the running engine will draw them back in and burn them. There has been a similar system on your fuel tank for years. When the car isn't running, fumes from the fuel are absorbed by a activated carbon filter. When the the engine runs, it draws air through the filter so they can be burned and the filter is cleaned of the fuel it captured.
So why would someone want/care to remove them
 

erocker

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So why would someone want/care to remove them
They block airflow. Probably get an HP or two out of it.

There is a potential problem with this modification. When you get your smog test, they may check to make sure the filter is in place. People have removed the catalytic converter and sometimes even get away with it for a while. Then one of the inspectors does their job correctly and finds it's missing. Needless to say, you don't pass inspection until everything is restored to factory specifications.
In my state, they plug in an OBD2 connector and it's either pass/fail if you have a code or not.
 

Dena

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In my state, they plug in an OBD2 connector and it's either pass/fail if you have a code or not.
Same here but they look around to make sure everything is in place. It's not a detailed inspection and because they are currently short handed, I suspect they don't always do everything they should. I do suspect that if it gets out that people are removing stuff, they might take a closer look.
 

SoggyBottomBoy

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They block airflow. Probably get an HP or two out of it.



In my state, they plug in an OBD2 connector and it's either pass/fail if you have a code or not.
Who is they? When in the world are yall having your cars inspected? Not once have i ever
 

jnj

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What you will need:
  • - 7mm socket
  • - 8mm socket
  • - 10mm socket
  • - T20 bit
  • - Body clip removal tool
  • - Something that can cut in small areas (like wire stripper-cutters)

Directions:

1. Pop off the air filter cover. this is done with 2 small clips in the front of the cover. they are very easy to remove and replace.
1694144262136.png


2. Take out the black 10mm bolt holding the intake tube to the air box. it really only has resistance for a small distance, then can be undone by hand
1694144285170.png


3. Loosen the clamp on the air filter. it has a 7mm bolt to loosen it, then take the filter off completely

4. Loosen the clamp holding the intake tube onto the throttle body. it has an 8mm bolt to loosen it

5. Disconnect the crankcase hose. Driver side has a blue clip that you reach under, pull it towards the front of the vehicle, and pull the hose off. Passenger side has a black push button that you push in and pull the hose off
1694144338389.png
1694144355948.png


6. Unplug the mass airflow sensor and pop off the anchor holding the wire to the intake tube with a body clip removal tool. remove the intake tube from the throttle body, then unscrew the two T20 screws and pull out the mass airflow sensor. you will bend the "fins" on the anchor, there is nothing you can do about it and it will work fine after re-installation
1694144431486.png


7. At the end of the tube where the filter attaches, there should be a sort of plastic grate that makes and "H" shape. This is an insert and on either side of the insert there are little clips. pull them inwards at the same time and pull the insert out
1694144454586.png


8. Further in the tube is a 3-spoke structure holding the hydrocarbon filter in place. use the cutting tool of your choice to cut each of those spokes as close as you are comfortable with to the base on the outside of the tube

9. Put your hand in the small end of the tube and push the filter out. then repeat what you did for step 8 on the second 3-spoke structure
1694144513288.png


10. Re-install the tube, doing steps 1-6 in reverse. NOTE: the mass airflow sensor has a small arrow on it. that arrow is to be pointing the direction of air travel towards the throttle body. Repeat all steps for the other side
Great guide! Very detailed! Thanks a lot for posting it.

I have a few questions:
1- Any long term damage to the engine if this mod is done without remap ecu? Some specialists don't even recommend adding high flow air intake without ecu remap.
2- Could this void warranty? I wonder if the sensors may detect a increased airflow and Ford may find out when reading statistics from the car in case you have another issue with the car and need to use the warranty to fix it.
3- Is this mod reversible?

Thanks!
 

Skye

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So why would someone want/care to remove them
On the Gen 3s, doing so was documented to gain a quick 10HP, minimum. Some reported as much as +20 HP.
 

Skye

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1- Any long term damage to the engine if this mod is done without remap ecu? Some specialists don't even recommend adding high flow air intake without ecu remap.

2- Could this void warranty? I wonder if the sensors may detect a increased airflow and Ford may find out when reading statistics from the car in case you have another issue with the car and need to use the warranty to fix it.

3- Is this mod reversible?
1. With respect to the Gen 3s, no. Removing the filter only, with no further mods to the tubing, the engine fuel trims adjusted to compensate, while leaving some further adjustment available. Testers did find on the 2022 Mach 1, that by removing a second inner tube with the filter, fuel trims were adjusted and maxed out. AFAIK, the former condition has resulted in 0 problems for anyone. The latter condition, with both the tube and filter removed, while not producing any ill effects, is not something I'd entertain.

2. Ford Engineers would have to prove this change created a condition which damaged an engine component and brought harm to the car. It has yet to be reported the adjusted condition has created problems for anyone, any equipment. Fuel trims adjust and remain within their factory range. 2022's (formerly factory rated at 470 HP / 350 KW) revert to a 2021 spec (factory rated at 480 HP / 358 KW). The only difference between a 2021 Gen 3 and 2022 Gen 3 is the filter and nothing else.

3. Yes. I can appreciate the concern. If brining into the dealer for other repairs and you don't want them to know, simply pop the filter back in; it is retained by clips (on the 2022 Mach 1). It only goes in one way. For the Gen 4, see above.

A high flow air filter can be installed to gain an additional 1-2 HP. These filters are often washable and last the life of the car.

Drivers report improved throttle response, all engine modes, with bettered engine sounds.

It's free HP. It's akin to installing lighter aftermarket rims, removing unsprung weight.

* 2022 Gen 3s have this filter, often removed by owners. I'm not sure there's one left installed, anywhere. Previous MYs also had a sound tube installed. The sound tube was a literal hollow tube, from the intake to inside the car, to pipe engine sounds into the interior. Not wanting to hear these "fake" sounds, people removed these tubes as well. Save these items. The joke is, 30 years from now, restorers are going to be scouring the country for the factory original items, with holders selling them on EBay for top dollar. :giggle:
 
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Katastrophe

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Not sure if there is a thread relating to this video or not...

Testing Intake Restrictions of the 2024 S650 Mustang GT! - YouTube

TLDW: You don't actually need to cut anything if you don't want to. The video gives some great information on how to do it. You could then put it back to stock with enough patience and probably swearing/sweating, LOL.

As for the dyno results...assuming these numbers are correct and not fudged in any way...that midrange gain is MASSIVE. Peak gains are also very stout, but that midrange torque blows my mind.

EDIT: For those too lazy to watch a 5 minute video, the gains were +16 WHP / +17 WTQ peak...and although they don't actually show you the official midrange numbers in the video (why DAMNIT?!), I'd wager almost +30 WHP and around +45 WTQ at roughly 3900 RPM. Those are serious gains that I hope more shops start to test and verify.
Sponsored

 
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