Best mode for drag racing

[B229218]

Went to the drags Friday, with stock Continental tires, and a Whipple. Got best time of 11.64. But all kinds of weird traction problems. what is the best mode for drag racing with this combo, drag mode sport mode, etc. Should I turn traction control off or on, put it in and drive let it shift for itself or put it in manual mode and do my own shifting. Also should I turn off advanced traction control? It did shift the hardest in drag mode.
Any help would surely be appreciated,

Sponsored

 

[robvas]

What mph did you run? What tires?

 

[B229218]

What mph did you run? What tires?

130 with stock Continental 255 4019

 

[Sofa King]

Drag mode...

 

[B229218]

Drag mode...

Traction control on or off?
And what about advance traction control? I think they call it..

 

[Farmer Fran]

you need tires then play with settings

 

[B229218]

Traction control on or off?
And what about advance traction control? I think they call it..

when featheringthe throttle, how do you keep it in the first gear? It tends to go right in the second.

 

[Q6543]

MPH tells the story, you went nowhere off the line and poured it in up top.

Don’t race anymore on the stock continentals, very VERY easy to wreck your car, the 1/2 or 2/3 shift can easily kick the ass end out and you won’t recover before the wall.

put a drag radial on it, since it reads you’re new, leave T/C advancetrac on.
Don’t try to rev it at the light, just pull up and stage shallow as possible (just barely light the 2nd set of bulbs) for max rollout… and floor it.

your gonna want to do a light break torque cleanup burnout before you stage.

130MPH is good enough to crack 10s, you’ll likely pick up some MPH on D/Rs
Have fun and enjoy.

cold track, hot tire big burnout, hot sunny track, cold tire small burnout

 

[B229218]

MPH tells the story, you went nowhere off the line and poured it in up top.

Don’t race anymore on the stock continentals, very VERY easy to wreck your car, the 1/2 or 2/3 shift can easily kick the ass end out and you won’t recover before the wall.

put a drag radial on it, since it reads you’re new, leave T/C advancetrac on.
Don’t try to rev it at the light, just pull up and stage shallow as possible (just barely light the 2nd set of bulbs) for max rollout… and floor it.

your gonna want to do a light break torque cleanup burnout before you stage.

130MPH is good enough to crack 10s, you’ll likely pick up some MPH on D/Rs
Have fun and enjoy.

cold track, hot tire big burnout, hot sunny track, cold tire small burnout

Should I change axles before
D/R?

 

[Junkyard Dog]

You have already exceed the strength of the half shafts Ford installed in your car. The "all kinds of weird traction problems" are the only thing saving your half shafts.

 

[Q6543]

Should I change axles before
D/R?

i personally just replaced the driver side with 1 GT350 axle (that’s the weak link)

power is not what breaks them, wheel hop is. So if the track is glued, and the tire is stuck and for some geometric reason you break traction and the rear lift’s weight transfer, the wheel is still spinning and the inertia coming back down grabs super hard again from a super sticky/track/tire…. SNAP.

thats how it happens most of the time… there is a taper in the stock driver side shaft only that is a weak point that tends to break.

if you race you just gotta be prepared to break stuff or consistently upgrade your weak links.
Not a bad job, probably did mine in a hour or so.

i also run bias ply drag tires which are way softer and have more give… far less likely to stress and break stuff.
I only use drag radials for street/highway traction, cruising

 

[ZXMustang]

i personally just replaced the driver side with 1 GT350 axle (that’s the weak link)

power is not what breaks them, wheel hop is. So if the track is glued, and the tire is stuck and for some geometric reason you break traction and the rear lift’s weight transfer, the wheel is still spinning and the inertia coming back down grabs super hard again from a super sticky/track/tire…. SNAP.

thats how it happens most of the time… there is a taper in the stock driver side shaft only that is a weak point that tends to break.

if you race you just gotta be prepared to break stuff or consistently upgrade your weak links.
Not a bad job, probably did mine in a hour or so.

i also run bias ply drag tires which are way softer and have more give… far less likely to stress and break stuff.
I only use drag radials for street/highway traction, cruising

This person knows the info.

 

[CrossCajunMustang]

Went to the drags Friday, with stock Continental tires, and a Whipple. Got best time of 11.64. But all kinds of weird traction problems. what is the best mode for drag racing with this combo, drag mode sport mode, etc. Should I turn traction control off or on, put it in and drive let it shift for itself or put it in manual mode and do my own shifting. Also should I turn off advanced traction control? It did shift the hardest in drag mode.
Any help would surely be appreciated,

I have experience the same when drag racing the S650. Better wheels and tires and a couple of suspension upgrades will improve the launch. I’ll use this L an example. This gentleman had zero power mods and 8k in suspension upgrades…his words.

 

[tktrain]

i personally just replaced the driver side with 1 GT350 axle (that’s the weak link)

power is not what breaks them, wheel hop is. So if the track is glued, and the tire is stuck and for some geometric reason you break traction and the rear lift’s weight transfer, the wheel is still spinning and the inertia coming back down grabs super hard again from a super sticky/track/tire…. SNAP.

thats how it happens most of the time… there is a taper in the stock driver side shaft only that is a weak point that tends to break.

if you race you just gotta be prepared to break stuff or consistently upgrade your weak links.
Not a bad job, probably did mine in a hour or so.

i also run bias ply drag tires which are way softer and have more give… far less likely to stress and break stuff.
I only use drag radials for street/highway traction, cruising

Agree. First mod I made was a rear cradle support (Stop The Hop kit). It really helps keep the tires planted.

 

[B229218]

MPH tells the story, you went nowhere off the line and poured it in up top.

Don’t race anymore on the stock continentals, very VERY easy to wreck your car, the 1/2 or 2/3 shift can easily kick the ass end out and you won’t recover before the wall.

put a drag radial on it, since it reads you’re new, leave T/C advancetrac on.
Don’t try to rev it at the light, just pull up and stage shallow as possible (just barely light the 2nd set of bulbs) for max rollout… and floor it.

your gonna want to do a light break torque cleanup burnout before you stage.

130MPH is good enough to crack 10s, you’ll likely pick up some MPH on D/Rs
Have fun and enjoy.

cold track, hot tire big burnout, hot sunny track, cold tire small burnout

You’re absolutely right I did just that on Saturday on the street. I did. I did a hit and man that car is asking when the left and like half a second I was shocked till far it went. I recovered and didn’t hit nothing. It didn’t wheel hop, though it just lost traction it went to the left big time one over three lanes of traffic.

Sponsored