26GT got boost - not ESS/Whipple/Procharger *Roush 2650 Phase2 810hp*

[needforspeedirl]

Yeah man out of box kit. No hardware changes. You are missing all the cooling changes I make in the tune. You got several things that change cooling for the better. My IATs are like 5* over ambient for my total pulls on the street. So much needs to be updated not just power and trans.

Just to clarify I’m talking about the IAT2 temps. The temperature after the air has gone through the blower.

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[ZXMustang]

Just to clarify I’m talking about the IAT2 temps. The temperature after the air has gone through the blower.

Yes understood. Mine are about 140 max on the long pulls to 160. And thats FL heat temps. Like today it was 95 when I was out.

 

[needforspeedirl]

Yes understood. Mine are about 140 max on the long pulls to 160. And thats FL heat temps. Like today it was 95 when I was out.

What is a “long pull”? 8 seconds? 20 seconds?

 

[ZXMustang]

What is a “long pull”? 8 seconds? 20 seconds?

40-140. I havent draggy'd it but yes 140-170 is going to add a lot of time to that. But Im not going that fast for any reason. Are you talking grille shutters being closed when you say intakes? I have those set to always be open. Rad fans come on sooner, and much faster vs stock roush (same as OEM). Several other tweaks that help out the intercooler and cooling overall.

 

[needforspeedirl]

40-140. I havent draggy'd it but yes 140-170 is going to add a lot of time to that. But Im not going that fast for any reason. Are you talking grille shutters being closed when you say intakes? I have those set to always be open. Rad fans come on sooner, and much faster vs stock roush (same as OEM). Several other tweaks that help out the intercooler and cooling overall.

Sorry. I meant throttle blades in the the throttle bodies of the intakes.

 

[needforspeedirl]

40-140. I havent draggy'd it but yes 140-170 is going to add a lot of time to that. But Im not going that fast for any reason. Are you talking grille shutters being closed when you say intakes? I have those set to always be open. Rad fans come on sooner, and much faster vs stock roush (same as OEM). Several other tweaks that help out the intercooler and cooling overall.

On draggy
My 60-130 on street tires is around 5.6 consistently. Some 5.4’s in lower temps and some 5.9’s in 3000+ DA. My 100-150 is consistently 6.3 seconds. Full weight 10r80 on e85. I can only do 2 back to back 60-130 pulls and on the second pull when it’s hot out 80+ I can feel it pulling timing. I’m targeting 21* but it’s pulling about 10* or more out of it when she heat soaks and the car is basically in protection mode.

 

[ZXMustang]

Sounds like you need some tune changes but also do need them cooling mods. I dont see me doing 160+ in the quartermile and Im sure as shit not going 140+ on the street. Not anymore. The chiller would be ideal but thats an invasive install.

 

[D/\rK•650]

Sounds like you need some tune changes but also do need them cooling mods. I dont see me doing 160+ in the quartermile and Im sure as shit not going 140+ on the street. Not anymore. The chiller would be ideal but thats an invasive install.

Love how you said "not anymore". I Totally can relate.

 

[raycer]

Also, the car is perfectly dialed now. Runs like a swiss watch at WOT, every shift perfect. And drives better than any mustang on the road I would be willing to bet. Its so dialed, it makes me sad that others are running around on those junk roush tunes thinking they should have gotten a whipple.

I really need to get this on a dyno, but I can only imagine how smooth that graph would look and what it could make on a correctly calibrated dynojet. It just freight trains through the gears with no feel like it wants to let up. The logs are perfect. Fueling, spark and airloads are all exactly what im asking of it. And there is probably still 10% headroom on the table for spark and fueling. Once I got the fuel pump booster dialed in right, its like its not even there. Perfect idle pressure. Feed forward is basically stock until the high side where I rescaled it up to take advantage of the real extra voltage. So its not even doing anything different than stock until you are at full WOT and fuel flow is 8lbs/min ++. Had to lower the voltage floor though so it would idle at the correct pressure like stock. But all that good now.

This kit has really surprised me. I bought it as a goof to just do something different than the whipple/ESS crowd and to build tunes for it in case anyone wants one, and man Im glad I did. I knew the 2650 was a menace to the streets, but with tuning available, its become a real contender to the top spot - in my opinion. Granted out of the box, its not. The whipple cals even being very similar in most respects, are still better. But all thats changed now.

This gives me PP GT vs Darkhorse vibes in the Roush Phase 2 vs Whipple stage 2 debate.

Once all things are equalized with tuning, then neither one is better. I need to find some whipple folks local to tampa to get some runs in with.

One thing to note, I make very similar changes to whipple cals for both stage 1/2 cars. And since that cal starts from a more advanced place, it seems to arrive at the same destination in terms of performance as the roush car does with less tuning work, if that makes sense. Thats comparing logs from the many whipple cars ive done vs this one. So its pretty impressive to see this 2.65L blower keeping up with a 3.0L blower at least on paper. We will see how this plays out on the streets and with a dragy if I can find mine.

So now I’m wondering if extra tuning is needed on the Whipple stage 2 kit. VMP and lethal are including a pump booster with the kit where as the Whipple stage 2 does not.

 

[needforspeedirl]

Sounds like you need some tune changes but also do need them cooling mods. I dont see me doing 160+ in the quartermile and Im sure as shit not going 140+ on the street. Not anymore. The chiller would be ideal but thats an invasive install.

My car has trapped 142 in the 1/4 even with these issues.

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