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im not a certified technician but that sounds like a slave cylinder leak that got onto the exhaust manifold or cat

thats about $40k adjusted for indflation. you can get a basic EcoBoost Premium High 201A for that nowadays (before dest & delivery, tax, title, doc fees, dealer scams, etc)

i dont have the option for smaller sidewalls. i have been thinking about getting some of those rear spring spacers

on big bumps i already hit the inside of my quarter panels

i could not run 20s with a 30 series sidewall. i can barely run the sidewall i have

"journalism"

i actually did not know that. makes the odds of this working much higher

we are going to get some great info with this, even if it does not end up working

standard paved parking lot

yeah i went back in the store and bought a cheap ratchet and socket kit to disconnect the battery, and when i came back out everything was fine.

normally i unconditionally love my Mustang, but it's hard to do so when it refuses to start, stranding me at Walmart for 15 minutes. it had a bunch of invalid data and lost communication with ABS codes and the few times it did actually start, shifting into reverse shut it off

i got 2 more updates. one yesterday and one today. 6.2.0 updates the TCU, and 6.3.2 updates the APIM

remember the mounting hardware, you cant get all of it separate of the factory cat-back you can only get the spring (5F264 in the picture), actuator itself (6K789 in the picture), and nuts to mount everything (HN3 in the picture). the mounting plate and bracket that the wire harness clip to...

you will need 1X PR3Z-14A411-C and 2X PR3Z-14A411-A. i should note that if you plan to do the Dark Horse exhaust, it has different wires that connect to the actuators due to the longer distance. those ones are PR3Z-14A411-S and replace the ones ending in "A".

i found the wiring and it looks like the wires for active exhaust always exist at that connector, just are not used and not called by anything by programming. this is also backed up by the pictures i sent earlier, which seemed to always have the same wires regardless of whether or not it had...

no clue

i will have to look when i get home to know for sure, but i think it will just be plug in and go, minus the forscan stuff

PR3Z-14A411-C is the wiring harness that connects to the actuator wires and the evap system. S650 actuator part number is PR3Z-5K245-B

i say dont risk it. better to get something that is known to work than guessing something that might not

yes, in that area. as for the connector, i am 99% sure that the same wires exist on act8ve and non active vehicles, and 100% sure that it is the same connector. i honestly wish i had a non active one to test on, because i hate leaving these kinds of things to speculation only