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There's that but there's also not being negligent and driving it through sub zero temperatures, snow and calcium chloride. Do whatever you want with your brand new $60k car though

The people that want their car to stay nice still don't do it. Why the heck would I want to drive something like a Mustang in the snow anyway? It's terrible. Sure, you can get snow tires, but you just plow chunks of snow and ice with your front bumper, slide all around, get snow inside the car...

The smart ones that live where it snows/salts park their cars during the winter. When I was young and dumb I drove my new Mustangs/Camaros in the snow but I know better now.

No thanks. Rather have the bottom of the car not have shit all over it.

I kind of figured they were talking about on the street

Can you get a 12"?

Hard to believe the model didn't outsell last years.

I'm not a huge fan of having to cut up the factory panels. Better than the older ones where you had to cut more holes, but still.

It's around 430lb-ft which was coincidentally the rating of the GT350 that it was previously in. Now, that doesn't mean the second you make more than that it will blow up. Plenty of people are running around with supercharged engines and MT-82's, and before that had supercharged engines with...

I would want to see a slightly taller tire in there, 26.6" might leave you with more wheelgap than you want

Depends on which one you buy. there is concentrate and then there is ready to use.

How many miles were on it and what kind of stuff did you have to replace?

Yea, for a 9.5-10.5, 265 width shouldn't even be in the running

If the clutch fluid, fuel, auto trans fluid, etc got all over the exhaust manifold on that side, caught on fire, it's not going out until the fire department gets there

But there are two traps now with two intakes, and they don't need to flow anywhere near as much air since they combine to basically create the number a single one did before. So removing them doesn't help. And how do you measure the "throttle response" that people always like to talk about?

Do you see any evidence of a leak on the engine anywhere, or coolant collecting in the underbody anywhere? you can check the oil on the dipstick for coolant milkshake, you don't have to wait for an oil change.

Or just leave it stock since you're not gaining anything

Dyno tests been done yet?

In all my years I've never seen a K&N foul a MAF straight out of the box...

Has anyone done an oil analysis at 1,000 miles, or cut a filter open to see what's in there at that time? Some people recommend doing it before 1,000 miles, or doing it again at 2-3,000