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shadow black is not a metallic paint. you may be seeing some sort of micro scratches that give the look of metal flake. if you have a vehicle that is Agate Black or Tuxedo Black, you will see just how non-metallic it is

2 is for the Dark Horse, 3 is for the GT and EcoBoost, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and A are unused and result in the DRLs being on for an unknown amount of time, and 9 turns the lights off, which is used in the farewell section

its because Ford didnt design anything with people like us in mind. in their systems, this all makes 100% complete sense. they have a lot of unique or questionable choices, but as a programmer myself, it makes sense because to them it probably makes perfect sense, and thats all that really matters

plot twist, it's really the 1.0L EcoBoost from the EcoSport

my ability to help with the auto start stop will be limited because mine doesnt have it, so i would honestly search around for someone else who does to help you with that. for the seat belt screen, im pretty sure there was an entire thread for that around here somewhere. finally, for the...

probably fake. i found this comment about them on the Mazda3 Subreddit also they have a 47% ScamAdvisor score, which is pretty bad it seems like the Colorado Fans, Cadillac Owners, Toyota Nation, and Kia Forte forums have all agreed that they are 100% worthless. one thing i saw that is very...

dealer got one. R8748. race red, handling package, recaros, manual, 700A

the reason they are faster is because they use solenoids to redirect fluid flow. and the reason they are stronger is because the 10R80 is designed to stand up to the likes of the Raptor R (640 lb-ft) while towing 8700 lbs, and the 10R140 to the likes of the high output 6.7L diesel (1200 lb-ft)...

you are able to add that yourself. in FORScan, go into the IPC (not the as built data one) and enable the boost gauge and disable the vacuum gauge, then do the same for the APIM. then, it will show you vacuum from 30 inhg to boost up to 30 psi in the gauge details on the dash and add a...

i have no idea

i think 12psi is the max on stage 1

ive heard that trying to get more boost out of stage 1 results in a wrench light. i cant actually remember where i heard that, so maybe its not true, but i know for sure that the stage 1 tune hates more boost. pretty sure they did it so people cant just swap out a pulley on a kit with a warranty...

i would honestly err on the side of caution and keep it covered

always here to help!

true, but it still might be possible if someone knew what they were looking for. as for the waterproof thing, it probably is IP65 or IP66, but i would definitely not risk possibly exposing the module that controls the engine and transmission to more water than it already is

yep, unless you dont mind people trying to unplug your PCM

this is a screenshot from the workshop manual instructions on PCM removal in the diagrams, you can see the front marker light as well as the cover for that right vent

i really like the new shift tone feature Ford added to 10.1.0, it helps me time my shifts without staring at the tachometer. plus, its a nice little audible cue when im going full throttle and i hit 7000rpm (my shift point i have set) just before the transmission upshifts

was only now able to do a sanity check against another Mustang with the 10.1.0 update. everything is true except the border cross thing. that was something i changed, being "considerate prompts" in the IPC and APIM

my Mach 1 used to have the undertray trap door for the oil filter. i honestly prefer this new undertray, even with the underbody air deflectors i have to remove as well. i dont know why, but i just do