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Dark Horse Stage 1 Warrantied

GrayHawK1

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Here in a week my car will be going to have the whipple stage 1 installed along with a stop the hop kit. Everything else will remain oem. I’m not trying to break records or anything. Never redline or do hard launches. Just wanted some extra power under the hood for my weekend driver. Going by what I’ve read am I safe to assume stock crank sprocket, oil pump gears, and cats would be ok?
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robvas

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Crank/OPGs aren't required either. Shops out there are running 8's and 9's without them. They wouldn't be risking it if they were as easy to break as the internet or some parts houses would make you believe.

Not sure what replacing those would do to your warranty, anyway.

Jump to the stage 2 kit as soon as you can, huge improvement over the neutered stage 1.
 
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GrayHawK1

GrayHawK1

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Crank/OPGs aren't required either. Shops out there are running 8's and 9's without them. They wouldn't be risking it if they were as easy to break as the internet or some parts houses would make you believe.

Not sure what replacing those would do to your warranty, anyway.

Jump to the stage 2 kit as soon as you can, huge improvement over the neutered stage 1.
I probably will at some point. I figured stage 1 is a good place for me to start. After a year or two go stage 2 with header upgrade. Maybe opg and sprocket upgrade along with it if it ends up being a known problem with gen4. I have a feeling it’ll be fine though like you said.
 
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Cz_Ziemniak

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highly recommend the oil pump gear. Watched a breakdown of the gen 4 Coyote, and the OPG is still questionable.

Better safe than sorry, may as well.
 


Q6543

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cats aren’t safe with boost. I know of plenty cars in the 8-900 RWHP plus range that are stock OPGs
 

tktrain

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Here in a week my car will be going to have the whipple stage 1 installed along with a stop the hop kit. Everything else will remain oem. I’m not trying to break records or anything. Never redline or do hard launches. Just wanted some extra power under the hood for my weekend driver. Going by what I’ve read am I safe to assume stock crank sprocket, oil pump gears, and cats would be ok?
That's amazing, I'm doing the same with my '25 DH. I am putting a double H pipe on at the same time. I had long talk with my dyno and build shop owner and he pulled up the Whipple warranty and we can't change anything inside the engine or exhaust cats forward or the warranty will be void. When the warranty is expired, I'm installing long tube headers, high flow cats, and billet OP gears.
 
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GrayHawK1

GrayHawK1

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That's amazing, I'm doing the same with my '25 DH. I am putting a double H pipe on at the same time. I had long talk with my dyno and build shop owner and he pulled up the Whipple warranty and we can't change anything inside the engine or exhaust cats forward or the warranty will be void. When the warranty is expired, I'm installing long tube headers, high flow cats, and billet OP gears.
Nice! I’m not hard on the car or anything. I’m sure I’ll push it every now and then but for the most part I’ll be driving it normally in the spring/summer on weekends. Hoping stock cats will be fine the next year or two. After that I’ll probably do the same.
 

tktrain

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Nice! I’m not hard on the car or anything. I’m sure I’ll push it every now and then but for the most part I’ll be driving it normally in the spring/summer on weekends. Hoping stock cats will be fine the next year or two. After that I’ll probably do the same.
My dyno man said stage 1 should be fine unless I do back to back full throttle blasts repeatedly. Stage 2 will definitely want high flow cats, which I have ready to install along with my LT headers.
 

smurfslayer

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My dyno man said stage 1 should be fine unless I do back to back full throttle blasts repeatedly. Stage 2 will definitely want high flow cats, which I have ready to install along with my LT headers.
If you go stage 2, what kind of headers? I ask because the Kooks give you more power, but, the stainless works have removable cats and they sell a bypass kit.

The only downside: Noise. At idle, or below 1500 rpms, it's ok, but if you stab the throttle and it goes over 1500, it is LOUD AF. You aren't hiding that you're coming from anyone.
Seriously, even the partially deaf dude with 2 big ol' hearing aids was like "what on earth was that?"

Quiet mode does help a lot.

My shop warned me even the high flow cats, factory or aftermarket are going to melt, it's only a matter of time.

So going stage 2 from the jump, headers and cat delete probably safest.
 

robvas

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If you go stage 2, what kind of headers? I ask because the Kooks give you more power, but, the stainless works have removable cats and they sell a bypass kit.

The only downside: Noise. At idle, or below 1500 rpms, it's ok, but if you stab the throttle and it goes over 1500, it is LOUD AF. You aren't hiding that you're coming from anyone.
Seriously, even the partially deaf dude with 2 big ol' hearing aids was like "what on earth was that"
Kooks has off road pipes you can buy as well
 

REV745DH24

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Here in a week my car will be going to have the whipple stage 1 installed along with a stop the hop kit. Everything else will remain oem. I’m not trying to break records or anything. Never redline or do hard launches. Just wanted some extra power under the hood for my weekend driver. Going by what I’ve read am I safe to assume stock crank sprocket, oil pump gears, and cats would be ok?
I live in Ohio. You wouldn’t have any problems using Kooks headers and any mufflers, mine was AWE mufflers which no problem using that in Ohio! But I don’t know whether these two is good with Whipple or not. I don’t have Whipple, otherwise ask others who live in Ohio if they have all three options would give you the advice! Have fun upcoming Spring 2026!
 

tktrain

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My dyno man has a heavily modded S550 with long tubes and huge cats. He runs a Stage 3 Whipple and drag races with no problems with cats melting.
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