Extreme Road Racing Track Build?

[CT22]

What’s the chassis and suspension setup with parts to upgrade our Dark Horses to be a track star?

Seems as though Ford saw an opportunity to make the DH suspension and chassis a lot better on the SC after 2yrs of in production.

I have a DH with the Handling Package. I’ve also already upgraded to a Steeda rear subframe brace, their “stop the hop” kit, their 4 point K-member brace, and a BMR front K-member brace.

What else have y’all put on that made a positive difference in the handling?

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[robvas]

What’s the chassis and suspension setup with parts to upgrade our Dark Horses to be a track star?

Seems as though Ford saw an opportunity to make the DH suspension and chassis a lot better on the SC after 2yrs of in production.

I have a DH with the Handling Package. I’ve also already upgraded to a Steeda rear subframe brace, their “stop the hop” kit, their 4 point K-member brace, and a BMR front K-member brace.

What else have y’all put on that made a positive difference in the handling?

There are a bunch of build threads on TMO and Vorshlag forums and those extra braces aren't that popular

https://www.s197forum.com/threads/vorshlag-2018-mustang-gt-s550-development-thread.134389/

 

[fvinazdesert]

Max out the negative front camber plates, that will make the car handle even better. You'll get around 2.2-2.5 degrees from the factory camber plates the Dark Horse's with the Handling Package come with.

 

[RLE55]

Most folks road racing for the first time, mostly leave things alone on the car till they find needs for change. I ran a stock Roush 427R for many years in HPDE before making changes, of which the first change was tires. Didn't do any suspension changes till i moved into HPDE4 and had made the decision to eventually move into racing class or Time Trials. The DH's are setup pretty good for road racing as they sit, so maybe wait till you see where improvements are needed?

 

[Garcia172]

Start by putting it on a major diet... Major Diet. 4000lbs never be competitive in GT1, 2 and 3 (The serious race classes) The competitive cars (not just mustang) are <3000lbs w driver wet. Even that's on the heavy side.

Low horsepower light cars always beat high horsepower heavy cars... Assuming the same power-to-weight ratio.

You might as well start with a base GT is the whole thing's going to be ripped apart in the name of saving weight..

I know that sounds harsh... but if you want "Extreme Road Racing"... that means the car with the driver needs to be under 2800lbs.... That's what "extreme" and racing with the big boys means.

The entire interior (carbon OMP halo seat or equiv), a/c, gonna need a proper cage (not more than you need), no glass windows, glass or carbon as much as possible body panels, light 3 piece wheels and aluminum hat rotors (or carbon), the dash gutted or better yet a carbon light replica of a dash with an AIM or Motec display, fuel cell, on and on. Weight is your enemy! Once you get the car way way down in weight... then you can focus on suspension setup. Anything steel under the car... fabricate in aluminum. Get the car under 3000lbs. In racing... if you don't need it.. .it goes in the trash.

 

[tj@steeda]

You can take a look at what we did with our Dark Horse for the Track, that translates to the street!

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