Recall 24S36 - Leaking Hydraulic Clutch Pressure Line

[infinitemberstang]

As per the service procedure posted earlier by RiksDH - as long as hand pressure is unable to dislodge it from the stud in the firewall - it should be good.
in other words / no wiggle/play should be noticeable on the retaining clip.

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[DCS]

Those pics are pretty bad. I hope they are better when I can get to my computer!

 

[infinitemberstang]

@jesuschristsupercar - could you please edit your initial post of this thread and add the service procedure @RiksDH has posted here, thanks. It will save all of us a lot of time and effort for this recall.

thank you all again for the support and sense of community. This is the power of being in a collective.

 

[RiksDH]

Those pics are pretty bad. I hope they are better when I can get to my computer!

Trust me, the best i could do. Lol. Even this i had to jump a few hoops to get.

 

[infinitemberstang]

Good thing that you guys have been able to work out what the recall is, but really bad the number that have been found wrong, the design itself looks pretty naff to be just a push fit on something that important.

+1 to the design being questionable tbh. If you look at it closely, the clip is held to the tubes by plastic - even though the tube is insulated / the plastic is not. Excessive temperatures could cause the plastic to melt and eventually get dislodged from the clip and voila - we have the same problem of the tubes hanging out from the studs and causing the same issue. The recall service is actually half baked I reckon. They should have told all of us to replace those plastic bands with metal. That would have made more sense and also future proof.

 

[RiksDH]

As per the service procedure posted earlier by RiksDH - as long as hand pressure is unable to dislodge it from the stud in the firewall - it should be good.
in other words / no wiggle/play should be noticeable on the retaining clip.

Yes. Absolutely!! The person i got this from made exactly the same points..

 

[RiksDH]

+1 to the design being questionable tbh. If you look at it closely, the clip is held to the tubes by plastic - even though the tube is insulated / the plastic is not. Excessive temperatures could cause the plastic to melt and eventually get dislodged from the clip and voila - we have the same problem of the tubes hanging out from the studs and causing the same issue. The recall service is actually half baked I reckon. They should have told all of us to replace those plastic bands with metal. That would have made more sense and also future proof.

100%. Gonna be dealing with it all morning tomorrow. I hope to get em as insulated as possible. But, for others that want to just nit bother with it, i would definitely keep an eye on it like a hawk.

 

[infinitemberstang]

100%. Gonna be dealing with it all morning tomorrow. I hope to get em as insulated as possible. But, for others that want to just nit bother with it, i would definitely keep an eye on it like a hawk.

Nice! I’m thinking about sticking some heat barrier tape around the plastic sleeve and the clip and cover them up. Just to be on the safer side. Close to headers and plastic clips is just scary tbh.
One track session of 20 min and the headers will be cooking.

 

[Karguy]

Using Mickey Mouse stuff like this makes you wonder if they actually test the stuff they design before they ok it for production/general consumption or if in this case (maybe) a fire initiated a maintenance bulletin / one of the various recalls…Or in this case a plastic clip attached correctly or not was cheap but probably not the best solution looking at the potential consequences !

 

[Zig]

Nice! I’m thinking about sticking some heat barrier tape around the plastic sleeve and the clip and cover them up. Just to be on the safer side. Close to headers and plastic clips is just scary tbh.
One track session of 20 min and the headers will be cooking.

Jet hot

 

[DCS]

Trust me, the best i could do. Lol. Even this i had to jump a few hoops to get.

Understand.

 

[DCS]

Finally got to a computer to get a better look at the pics.
If I'm reading this correctly, even if I get a "Pass" with the tube attached to the stud with a plastic Zip retainer, there is still more work to be done beginning with step 2. Am I correct?
Update: No, I am incorrect. If I get a "Pass", I'm done. @RiksDH was only showing what needed to be done in the case of a "Fail".

 

[Zig]

Finally got to a computer to get a better look at the pics.
If I'm reading this correctly, even if I get a "Pass" with the tube attached to the stud with a plastic Zip retainer, there is still more work to be done beginning with step 2. Am I correct?

Yes, if it’s able to be dislodged with hand pressure the line gets replaced and the system bled

 

[RiksDH]

Yes, if it’s able to be dislodged with hand pressure the line gets replaced and the system bled

Correct! That was my understanding. At the dealership currently… They just came back and told me yours is “Solid”. Nothing to worry about. I will still work on getting all the lines anywhere near the headers secured and insulated. Better safe than sorry.

 

[Marty1000]

Correct! That was my understanding. At the dealership currently… They just came back and told me yours is “Solid”. Nothing to worry about. I will still work on getting all the lines anywhere near the headers secured and insulated. Better safe than sorry.

This item is not metal to metal screw connect. What does "SOLID" mean?? How much hand pressure did they apply? I am sure with enough force you can pull that plastic of the stud. I am thinking that maybe some dealers may want to pull it off just to keep the car for the day and make the full repair to get more money from Ford for the work?

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