SVC vs DVC B&O sub replacement

[ChillinDylan]

Okay so I’m pretty new to car audio so I might be missing something simple, but I’ve been trying to figure out why everybody says to replace the stock B&O sub with a 4 ohm DVC sub not a SVC. I just watched Car audio fabrications video on the differences between the two types of subs hoping that it would all make sense, but honestly I’m even more confused now. I will probably just try it when I get home from work in a couple weeks, (I work out of state) since I already have a SVC Kicker Comp 10” 4ohm in my truck. Is the stock amp seeing 4ohms from the stock sub or are the 2 voice coils wired in series to make it only see 2ohms? Hopefully I worded that right. The video I watched says that really the only benefit with DVC is that additional option of giving the amp a lower resistance signal from the sub. If the stock subs coils are in parallel, why not just use a SVC sub of the same ohm rating, and if they’re in series, why not just use a SVC sub of the lower rating? Again I apologize if this seems like a stupid question and I’m missing something that’s normally obvious to people, I’m just trying to understand. Thanks

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[Gregs24]

Okay so I’m pretty new to car audio so I might be missing something simple, but I’ve been trying to figure out why everybody says to replace the stock B&O sub with a 4 ohm DVC sub not a SVC. I just watched Car audio fabrications video on the differences between the two types of subs hoping that it would all make sense, but honestly I’m even more confused now. I will probably just try it when I get home from work in a couple weeks, (I work out of state) since I already have a SVC Kicker Comp 10” 4ohm in my truck. Is the stock amp seeing 4ohms from the stock sub or are the 2 voice coils wired in series to make it only see 2ohms? Hopefully I worded that right. The video I watched says that really the only benefit with DVC is that additional option of giving the amp a lower resistance signal from the sub. If the stock subs coils are in parallel, why not just use a SVC sub of the same ohm rating, and if they’re in series, why not just use a SVC sub of the lower rating? Again I apologize if this seems like a stupid question and I’m missing something that’s normally obvious to people, I’m just trying to understand. Thanks

The OEM sub is DVC so it is a straight swap

 

[ChillinDylan]

The OEM sub is DVC so it is a straight swap

From what I understand, again I'm new to car audio, but it seems that a SVC could be hooked straight up too. Just hook up the negative from the one lead and the positive from the other right? That would be the same as bridging two channels on an amp if I'm not mistaken

 

[Gregs24]

From what I understand, again I'm new to car audio, but it seems that a SVC could be hooked straight up too. Just hook up the negative from the one lead and the positive from the other right? That would be the same as bridging two channels on an amp if I'm not mistaken

You could but the price difference between a SVC speaker and DVC speaker is nothing so you may as well just use a DVC

 

[ChillinDylan]

You could but the price difference between a SVC speaker and DVC speaker is nothing so you may as well just use a DVC

So I guess everybody uses a DVC just cause? Yeah I've noticed the prices as well. I don't care to spend the money but to satisfy my curiosity I'm gonna try hooking up the kicker I already have. And because I'm selling the truck that the kicker is in and it'll literally just be sitting around at that point so why not move my investment into the vehicle I'm keeping

 

[rbuike]

DVC because it matches the existing characteristics, no just because. If they don't match you will get less power, more clipping and it could sound worse. That said you have it, try it, you can always switch back

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