Need solution to make the studs back to normal (Had to cut them in order to fit 20mm spacers)

[kinelisch]

Hey everyone,


Quick question: I have a 2024 Mustang GT Premium, and I installed 20mm spacers, which required cutting the stock studs to fit the OEM 19" wheels. Now that I'm planning to buy new wheels, I want them to sit properly on the hub with full-length, uncut studs.


What parts do I need to replace the cut studs and return to a normal setup?


Appreciate any help—thanks in advance!

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[8915GT]

5 lbs. hammer and new studs

 

[kinelisch]

5 lbs. hammer and new studs

it’s that easy? Just hammer them out? Do I need to remove the rotor or caliper?

 

[8915GT]

Yes I believe so. Tbh Have not done it on an S650.

 

[GrabberB]

I have not done this on a newer Mustang. Check out Murphy's Law Garage on YouTube. He made a video titled - S650 Mustang APR Wheel Stud Install - Fastest Method! The removal method still applies even though he is installing ARP studs.

This video applies to rear and he is installing ARP studs for extra strength for 1/4 mile runs. The removal method is not particularly hard but it's not as easy as removing the caliper & rotor. This alone does not allow enough room to fish the old studs out i.e., clearance. Since yours are shortened they may come out but you will not get the new studs back in without following the advice on the video I mentioned.

Good luck and I tried hard to not say the following. Cutting the OEM studs is never a good idea. I know you're having remorse now. We've all been there and done that and regretted it later.

 

[n_123]

I just did this job (installed extended ARP Studs). On the front, you don’t have to take anything off. Just pound the stud out and it will be able to be removed when it is across from the caliper. Very easy.

The back?…. Not so easy. You will essentially be doing a wheel bearing job. Pound the studs loose when they’re still on the car if you don’t have a press. You will not have enough clearance to remove the studs completely with the wheel bearing still secure. You will then remove the brake calipers and rotor, remove the large axle nut, and then remove the 4 bolts securing the wheel bearing to the knuckle. At this point you will be able to take a rubber mallet (not hammer) and give it some thuds to remove it. It can be stubborn so don’t be afraid to go at it. You will then be able to install the new studs and install in reverse order. Be prepared to get a ton of torque on the axle nut when reinstalling (98 lb ft and then 45 degrees I think). It is very important to torque that correctly along with the 4 bolts on the back. Specific torque specs on everything are easy to find online so double check. Clearance is tough but at long as you have an assortment of extensions and swivels you will be fine.

 

[kinelisch]

Thank you for the information guys.

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