JediMindTrix’s Black S650 Mustang GT (delivered)

[jboogie1289]

Love the oxford white with nite pony on this generation! Congrats on your S650. My only regret is I wish I went with the red interior like you- other than that love it so far.

The Red Interior was part of my Spec for a new S650 but I didn’t want to do a Special Order. Was to the point of giving up on just “finding” one with the Red Interior and Red Calipers. My S550 had that but no AE or MR. Still loved it so as I do The S650 aka Relámpago Blanco!!

Almost committed to a DH but wasn’t going for that Silly Markup as no one in South Texas was budging on price. Blue Ember was almost my “New Color” but glad that I could find the 2.0 that I have now.

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[JediMindTrix]

Hello everyone,
Now that spring has sprung here in Michigan, and I have a track event around the corner I am getting around to installing and trying more parts. Yesterday, I installed the following:

1. Dark Horse/Mach-1 adjustable front strut mounts which allow for camber adjustment (M-18183-MDH 2015-2024 MUSTANG FRONT STRUT MOUNT - ADJ CAMBER| Part Details for M-18183-MDH | Ford Performance Parts).
2. Steeda rear subframe alignment spacers (555-4438 Steeda 555 4438 Mustang IRS Subframe Alignment Kit (15-24)).

both changes we're fairly straight forward, but I can see how some can get hung up on getting the subframe spacers put in since Steeda's directions miss some pretty vital information. When doing the front strut mounts, I pulled up the service instructions and referenced the illustration to assure I had it in the correct position. The easiest way to remember is the guide pin always goes outboard (circled in red):

When doing the Steeda Frame alignment spacers you're probably like me and don't have a pit or ample amount of space in your garage to use a pole jack:
- I went one side at a time removing both front and rear main sub frame bolts 'with the rear end set on jack stands.
- As you remove the main subframe bolts you can use an appropriate sized bottle jack positioned nearby the bolt you're currently removing. There's multiple locations you can do this at so just pick one that has a good solid surface on the subframe itself.

- You'll lower the subframe enough (about half way) with the bottle jack to take the tension off the bolt but still high enough to where you can put the spacer and subframe bolt back in to catch and get the threads started in the chassis (about 2-3 threads hand started before using a torque wrench or impact).
- You'll hand start both front and rear main subframe bolts before torquing. If you have an issue with the subframe bolts aligning to the chassis you can get the subframe easily aligned by pumping up the bottle jack as needed until it is aligned to torque the subframe bolts.

It was about 3 hours worth of work to do all of it, and the subframe alignment spacers really helped with removing the unwanted slop out of the rear end and keeps it planted. The front strut mounts we're primarily for camber adjustment, but it does seem to provide better handling characteristics than the stock PP strut mounts.

 

[JediMindTrix]

Updated the original post to show what the vehicle looks like on S550 PP2 wheels lowered on Steeda Magneride Sport Springs with Ford Performance Track Sway Bars (last picture).

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