DFB's Detailing Garage

[xrs]

i didn't get a chance to compare the XR8 SC vs Mustang 2024 GT. I don't have the space with my girls still living at home. I advertised the XR8 one time at cars and coffee and sold within 2hrs for 44K. I agree the suspension on the XR8 was harsh, but I got used to it, the wifey didn't as soon as she got into the Mustang GT that was the first thing she said I love the suspension much better in this car lol. DFB your detail work on your XR8 is awesome makes me miss mine.

Sponsored

 

[DFB5.0]

I do have a set of metal trim removal tools, but I must admit, I always reach for the plastic tools instead. The metal tools remain unused.

If you don't have a set of the plastic tools, worth having, not expensive, and easily obtainable with a visit to your local Autobarn store.

https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-&-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Other-Tools/Garage-Tough-5-Pcs-Trim-Removal-Set-with-Canvas-Pouch---GT1005C/p/TO31572

I'm always paranoid about the metal tools marking the surface (even plastic) as the clip is being removed! Unless it's under the car, then who cares.

I have these, but they weren't strong enough for these particular clips -
Pick Set – Detail Factory
Detail Factory - Detailing Pick Set : Amazon.com.au: Automotive

The pry spot for those clips was hidden under the trim panel, so no risk in this situation.

Oh dear.

My next vehicle will be a 4WD.
Having eliminated the recent and disappointing all-new Toyota Prado off the list, the next contender is a Ford Everest, with the new Tremor variant getting my attention.

Like the HiLux, these are assembled in Thailand, and I was hoping for decent build quality and durability.

Every make and model have their faults. Toyota's have issues with diesel particulate filters, Mitsubishi and Isuzu have chassis rigidity problems, the Isuzu's are known to prematurely rust, the Nissan's have issues with the diff and injectors,

Compared to the MUX, Pajero Sport, Prado and Fortuner, the Ranger and Everest are best in class, and I'd still happily buy either for the following reasons -

- They have the best engines, the V6 diesel is THE one to buy, it's so smooth and quiet, important if you are going to do long distance travel. No competitor can match that engine. Same 10-speed used in the Mustang, F-150 ect.

- Best interiors, especially the layout and tech integration. The others are just passing off their old stuff.

- Best chassis tuning. With the Ranger and Everest being designed and engineered in Australia, it kinda makes sense that they would deal with our roads better than the competition. Having been in the competition, they just don't ride very well and have terrible steering. The Hilux is very truck like to drive, the Rangers drive as if they are smaller than they are.

- The main ladder frame is considerably beefer than the competition. Check it out next time you are looking at a Hilux or Triton, the chassis legs are skinny, the Ranger's convincingly stout.

I'd still buy another Ranger, and if it wasn't for the fact they dropped the low-ride model, I would have traded up by now. (I need/want the low ride height to load heavy tools into and out of. They drive better too)

 

[DFB5.0]

i didn't get a chance to compare the XR8 SC vs Mustang 2024 GT. I don't have the space with my girls still living at home. I advertised the XR8 one time at cars and coffee and sold within 2hrs for 44K. I agree the suspension on the XR8 was harsh, but I got used to it, the wifey didn't as soon as she got into the Mustang GT that was the first thing she said I love the suspension much better in this car lol. DBF your detail work on your XR8 is awesome makes me miss mine.

That R-Spec suspension tune is much better at speed, be that cruising on the highway, or in higher speed cornering. It's the low-speed ride that takes getting used to. They did slacken the ride for the Sprint, renaming it S-spec and making the car "breath" with the road rather than smashing into it. But yeah, they are pretty one-dimensional in their ability, a point and shoot type of car.

 

[DFB5.0]

Twenty-five years ago, I was enjoying the freedom that came from a driver's license and my first car.

My parents helped me with my first car. After searching far and wide looking at various Falcon's, eventually this 2001 AU III Fairmont sedan popped up at the local Ford dealer. After a test drive, along the same roads I shot the videos of my Mustang and XR6, it all went quiet. A few days later, I noticed the car had disappeared from the lot, which was kinda the clue. On my birthday, the 28th of December, this 3-year-old Fairmont was sitting in the driveway. A few days later, I passed my driving test in the same vehicle. Funnily, one of my friends got to drive my first car before I did, he worked at the Ford dealer as an apprentice mechanic, where he did the pre-sale inspection.

The car was made on the 11th of November 2001, making it one of the first AU III's off the line. So early that this example actually had the AU II's diamond pattern seat and door trim material. This didn't bother me, actually I only discovered it a few years later, at least it had the Warm Charcoal instead of the cheap looking Dark Graphite grey colour tone.

With only 54,000 km on the clock and painted in the majestic Barossa Red, it had the standard 157 kW 4.0 SOHC engine and 4-speed auto. Apart from the massive tow bar, which was clearly used going by the scraped up rear mud flaps, the car was standard. Although that would change, my uncle was the spare parts manager at the same Ford dealer, so I had access to various genuine Ford parts.

The first thing I did was to fit a rear spoiler. With various spoilers offered on the AU, I wanted it to look like it was originally ordered with it, so I went with the curvier item with the triangular central brake light. That spoiler was originally used on the series one XR's, but for AU II and AU III, it then became the factory option spoiler and was standard on the SR SVP. I had it painted and fitted at a local panel shop......................who lost my keys and ended up having to replace the whole ignition system with two brand new keys/fobs installed at their cost. Thinking back, this was when my phobia of leaving my cars in the "care" of someone else began.

Next, I replaced the ugly 16-inch wheels that were fitted with horrible no-name tyres fitted. Actually, I nearly wrote the car off due to those tyres, the rear snapping into full opposite lock oversteers on a cold, wet morning WITHOUT provocation. The AU III Fairmont used the previous AU II Fairmont Ghia wheels, they were a nightmare to clean and really made the car look like the grandpa's express it was originally meant to be.

Again, I wanted OEM, which back then was relatively simple. They don't exist anymore, but Wheel King used to buy up OE wheels from Holden and Ford and offered them at a good price, with or without tyres. I decided I wanted the 17-inch wheels offered as an option on AU series one XR's, but was also the optional Tickford wheels on all other models. They had a machined face, which made them shimmer on the move. I also liked how easy they were to clean and the beautiful set of Tickford wings on the center caps.

On the inside, I fitted a Momo leather shifter. I also fitted the Fairmont Ghia woodgrain surround, which involved removal of the 1-piece center console. I remember it being mid-summer, so I was working inside the car with the fan running....................then flattened the battery. You live, you learn. At some point, I also had a Metallic Blue Momo steering wheel fitted, the best steering wheel I have ever used. This wheel was optional across the range and was a different to the Wild Blue used on the T-Series.

I also got my uncle to order a Fairlane exhaust tip. I remember paying $120 trade for it. I could have bought something generic from Repco or Supercheap, but no, I wanted the Ford part, I just loved the size and angle of it. It didn't change the sound, which was fine by me. They also used this tip on XR6 VCT.

Mechanically, the car served me well. I put 30,000 km on the car over the 3.5 years I owned it, I even loaded my mower in the back to go do lawns. At one point, it needed the front ball joints addressed as it had a weird clunk in the front end when letting off the brakes from rest. I also had to replace the rear muffler as it was rotted out towards the end of my ownership. And the 6-stack CD head unit needed to be repaired, as did the climate control display.

Driving wise, it was a superb long-distance cruiser with stunning highway fuel economy. The brakes were weak though, and I suspect it had done a LOT of towing, the transmission was occasionally thump back to second. Ride comfort was as expected for a car heavily skewed to an older driver, but she did like to roll around a bit. The engine was super smooth up to about 3000 rpm, at which point the intake manifold would switch to the short runners for the final 2750 rpm. Those engines really didn't like to spend much time over 3000 rpm, they were noisy and rough as guts up top. The noise was pretty nasty as well, too much wheezing and whining. But.................she would pull a mean single ped burnout pulling out of rural TAFE campus at 3.30pm home time. (Hey, we all did it)

In the end, I sold the car to a family friend in June 2008, but haven't seen it since. It's hard to know if I miss the car itself, or the time in my life when things weren't so complicated. Probably both.

Most of the images above were taken in the same locations as the below images, 20 years later......................

 

[DFB5.0]

Kranzle KHD10/122 Oil Change

I’ve previously documented the oil change process on the mobile K1152 (K1122), but in this instance, I’m featuring the KHD10 that I wall mounted back in June 2023. After 18-months of solid use, this will be its first oil change.

The owner’s manual instructs to change the oil at 50 hours, then at 250 hours or yearly from there on. The oil change is also a general guide to the health of the machine. If oil coming out of the machine is grey or white, that indicates water is getting past the seals and into the oil chamber, meaning more extensive work will be needed in the future.

It’s not recommended turn these machines upside down, so the oil should be drained from the bottom drain plug rather than out of the dipstick. To gain access to the drain plug, the machine needs to be taken off the shelf. That means removal of the rubber saddle clamps that secure the unit to the shelf, then the inlet water hose, followed by disconnecting the jumper hose which transfers pressurized water to the hose reel. Finally, unplug the power and lift the machine off the shelf.

With the machine on the bench and before going further, I took the time to go over it with Bilt Hamber Trace-less. Not that it was especially dirty, but I like to work on clean machines.

It can be tricky to drain the oil due to where the drain plug is located and the lack of clearance under it. As such you need to rig up something to hold the unit above the oil drain pan, although this is much easier on the KHD series rather than the bulkier cart models like the 1122/1152. In this case, I used two small buckets.

Once suspended, you can then loosen the drain plug with a 13mm socket or wrench, then backing it out by hand. The oil used in these machines is thick, so remove the dip stick to speed up the process. I also recommend gloves, this stuff is basically diff oil, which means the corresponding acrid stench.

The oil that came out of the machine was darker than I was expecting, so I probably should have changed it sooner. Because of that, I decided to flush
the case with some 15W-40 motor oil I had on hand. Once fully drained, the plug was cleaned and reinstalled, ready for the fresh oil.

Consulting the owner's manual, it asks for 0.25L of the OE-spec Kranzle Gear Oil, which seems to be a bit thin on the ground at the moment. The manual also suggests the use of 15W-40 motor oil as a substitute. Measure out and then add the oil, reinstall the dipstick and check the level, adding more if needed.

Kranzle Pressure Washer Pump Oil 1L - High-Quality Lubricant - Detailing Shed
Kranzle Pressure Washer High Performance Pump Gear Oil

Kranzle Pressure Washer Gear Oil Change Guide and Maintenance Tips – Obsessed Garage

At this point I'll point out that these Kranzle pumps always take more than 0.25L of oil. Each and every time I have changed oil on these, I've always had to add at least another 50ml of oil to even register on the dipstick. For a German company, I find this puzzling.

It's then time to re-install the machine on the wall. I connected the inlet and jumper hoses first, then shuffled the machine to line up the saddle clamps with the holes in the shelf. Everything tight, I fired it up for a test run.

Serviced and ready for another year of washing.

 

[DFB5.0]

A few years ago, I bought a small selection of AMMO NYC products to try, this being before AMMO Australia was set up. With Hydrate being one of his signature products, I ordered two bottles of it to try.

Hydrate is very different to all other drying aids on the market, Larry terming it as a "paint moisturizer". It's considerably thicker in consistency, much like moisturizing lotion, as such it doesn't atomize. My bottles are the earlier v1 formula, the latest PRO version is even thicker again. You also don't spray it directly onto the paint, rather one or two sprays onto a damp towel, spread it over a section, then wipe with a second dry towel.

I wanted to love this product but found the unconventional application a challenge. After being reminded of this product recently, I decided to give Hydrate another try on the XR8 today.

I haven't used Hydrate on a ceramic coated surface, but on the XR8 with Wolfgang DGPS, it worked very well. In this case, I used a damp TRC Platinum Pluffle for the initial wipe, followed by another for the final buff. For each section, I found a single spray into the damp towel was sufficient, less is more.

Hydrate certainly has a very lubricated feel to it, although it doesn't quite leave the surface as slick as ADS Amplify, Bead Maker or Meg's HCD. Where Amplify and HCD can be used with a single towel, you really need that extra towel for Hydrate. In some ways, it's like a spray wax in that it needs a slight flash period before leveling any high spots with the second towel. I think that's where I struggle with Hydrate, those initial wipes produce a smeary finish that looks like it will be a nightmare to deal with but then transforms with the second wipe...................you just need to keep the faith and be patient with it. And lastly, I've always thought that this product smells a little odd, very distinctive though.

I'm going to try and keep using it on this car and see if I acclimatize to it because I really like the concept of this product. I like how Larry thinks out of the box with his products rather than just being another Youtuber with a bunch of white-labeled generic products with a premium price tag.

One last note, considering Hydrate pre-dated Larry's foray into ceramic coatings, I suspect the latest PRO version was designed to work better with coatings. The price is up there, however, considering how little you use per vehicle, that bottle will last you a VERY long time.

For those who want to give the AMMO range a try, the products are now available in Australia via the STASH group -

AMMONYC AU
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC AU

US Link -
AMMO Hydrate Paint Moisturizer – AMMONYC
AMMO NYC – AMMONYC

 

[DFB5.0]

A little re-stock and something new, Ghost Tire Sealant by ADS.

 

[xrs]

I can confirm sealants are the go, I did the daughters 2015 Focus with Chemical Guys sealant Jet Seal, and it has been really holding up nicely, just pressured washed the car down with the rain over the last week with brown dirt spots all over it from the wind and it all come up good. Now I gota get me some Ghost. I have not found anything that I like on my tires so far.

 

[DFB5.0]

I can confirm sealants are the go, I did the daughters 2015 Focus with Chemical Guys sealant Jet Seal, and it has been really holding up nicely, just pressured washed the car down with the rain over the last week with brown dirt spots all over it from the wind and it all come up good. Now I gota get me some Ghost.

Just so I'm clear, Ghost is a tire dressing/sealant and shouldn't go on paint. It's supposed to last longer than a typical water-based tire dressing, ADS suggesting "up to 3-months". Longevity doesn't really bother me in this case, I just like what I was seeing in regard to the finished look after application.

 

[xrs]

yep got it, just reading what it does on the web now, matt to glossy depending on applications, niiiiiiiiiiiiice

 

[DFB5.0]

yep got it, just reading what it does on the web now, matt to glossy depending on applications, niiiiiiiiiiiiice

Yep, enhanced but not over the top.....................................

I've used tire sealants before, namely Carpro Darkside and Gyeon Q2 Tire. Both of those are sticky gel-like products that can end up being messy if not applied properly. With Q2 Tire, I had a lot of sling issues so I stopped using it, and Darkside requires quite a bit of work to get a nice finish. Both looked great though...........................

Gyeon Q2 Tire -

Carpro Darkside -

So, with its runnier consistency, I'm hoping Ghost is easier to apply, dries properly and offers that similar look.

 

[DFB5.0]

Ok, back to some detailing content!

In line for treatment today was the Ranger after it trip to pick up the Victa 18. With my latest Detailing Shed order, I decided to try ADS Shampoo+ again. And what a nice soap it is; easy to pour, nicely slick, great foaming ability, a pleasant scent and cleaning ability that easily removed a layer of light road film from yesterday's rain. I used this to clean the wheels and body.

Also included in my order, two additional Pressol bottles. You can tell a good product when I transition it from the manufacturers bottle and sprayer to one these Pressol or Kwazar's. On this occasion, ADS Pilot and Amplify, teamed with the appropriate label.

The main reason for this order was to finally sample Armour Detail Supply Ghost, which has been on sale in the US since last year. Ghost moves beyond a typical water-based tyre dressing, being classified as a tyre "sealant" instead. That means longer durability, which is not the reason why I was interested in it, rather the lovely finish I was seeing from US reviewers.

Prior to application, I made sure to clean the tyres as best I could. Starting by scrubbing with Wise Guy, then followed by Stoner Tarminator after the wash to strip and reset the sidewalls.

Ghost is surprisingly sprayable compared to the gel-like tyre sealants I have used in the past. It also has a blue tracer in it to show where you have applied, something I have never experienced with a tyre dressing before.

WOW, what a product!!!! I like most of the tyre dressing products I try, but this stuff has leap frogged above almost all of them. It works in easily, the tracer a handy feature. But it's the completely dry/residue free finish with just the right amount of enhancement that gets me excited! I can see why this is getting so much attention.

A more detailed review will follow.

 

[DFB5.0]

Yesterday I said goodby to a friend and colleague of 20-years. After a 15-year battle with cancer, she fought it to the very end, I would expect nothing less. She was one of those people who would give to her own detriment, a totally selfless soul that was loved by many. She worked for the company for nearly 35-years, only 'retiring' in late November last year at age 82, and only because her body wouldn't let her anymore.

I already miss our regular text messages and working the Saturday shift together. And while I'm sad to no longer have her in my life, I'm also content knowing she lived life to the very end, not a second wasted. She battled for so long, both for own and her late husbands health, she is now at peace. Perhaps she's dancing on the tables of heaven, she once famously jumped up and started dancing on the table at a company Christmas party a few years before I joined. As she would often ask if I was freeeeee, she is now freeeee.

Considering the above, and the projected temperatures below, I really couldn't be bothered working today......................

So, I followed my heart and did what makes me happy.......................

In the foam cannon today, ADS Shampoo+ used on the wheels and body, drying aid ADS Amplify, Invisible Glass for the windows and touchscreen, OG Tire Dressing for the rubber and Amplify on the wheels and exhaust tips.

 

[DFB5.0]

I've been a little lax on the detailing front over the last few weeks, I've been a little pre-occupied with restoring a vintage lawn mower.

Having said that, there has been a little detailing on that lawn mower................................

This little Victa was made between 1958 and 1961 and hadn't ran in 30-years. After a fair bit of learning on the fly, I've rebuilt the carb and got the thing running again.

So, that's what I've been doing over the last couple of weeks.

After finishing up on the Victa this morning, I was feeling super pumped and felt like indulging in a little detail therapy. In line today, the blue rocket.

In the cannon today, the thoroughly delightful Shine Supply Shift. Out of all the soaps in my collection, I regard this one to be the mildest. As we know, Reset can be a little aggressive, likewise Megs Hyper Wash and NV Snow. Shift on the other hand is a great for light maintenance washing, providing great lubrication, plenty sudsy foam and just enough cleaning ability. I also love the coconut lime fragrance. Shift was used on the wheels and paint, and a little Brake Buster for the tyres.

Wash media today was the TRC Cyclone Mini......................

Drying aid was, you guessed it, ADS Amplify, which I also used on the door jambs. Next, the engine bay was wiped down with ECH20, followed by the wheels with Amplify. Tyres coat a coat of Swissxax Pneu. For the interior, a very quick once over with ADS Pilot. For the exterior glass, I went with Opti-Coat Glass Clean & Protect, which is on another page when compared to Carpro ClarifyPhobic, not streaking or special treatment required.

Back to spec and ready for its cover.

 

[DFB5.0]

Despite the heat today, which as I type is sitting on 41-degrees on its way to 42, I still managed to get in some detailing.

With it being quite dry and windy over the week, the Ranger's white paint was looking quite dull from a layer of dust. A trip to the green waste facility didn't help things.

For the wheels, tyres and paint, I decided to use P&S Wide Open.

Drying Aid was a product I keep forgetting to use, Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer. This is a product that doesn't shout about itself via a fancy bottle or label, an enticing colour or fruity scent, it just makes paint slick and glossy. Considering the heat out there today, I was surprised how easily it worked.

https://detailingshed.com.au/produc...1&_sid=6f4c902d4&_ss=r&variant=39264423936159

The tray and door jambs were wiped down with DIY Waterless Wash, glass via KCx, interior got the InnerQD treatment.

At the previous wash 12 days ago, I used ADS Ghost for the first time. As a recap, this was the result...............

The tyres on this occasion had a layer of dust on the very outer rim of the sidewall from the trip to the tip, most of which was removed by a simple rinse. It was also interesting to see the hydrophobics created by Ghost. Instead of hitting the rubber with a tyre cleaner, I decided to just give them a scrub with the Wide Open shampoo mentioned earlier. Dried, this is what they looked like.....................

There was some degradation around the outer rim, which is understandable given it makes contact with the road, but hopefully you can see the rest of the sidewall has hung on very well. While I certainly didn't need to, I gave the tyres a very light brush over with ADS Tire+ to top them off.

Contrary to what some people seem to think, this post was NOT sponsored or paid for by a detailing company.

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