DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
Traditionally, people would wash and dry the car, then begin claying. Thing is, considering the car effectively gets wet again via the clay lube, you end up drying the car twice by doing it that way. It took me many years to figure that out.Polisher training wheel about to go on, and dumb questions follow....
Q) After claying, do I rinse the car with the pressure washer and dry before the next step of polishing?
Q) Or just wipe off with MF towels as I clay around the car?
I use the 3-pH method for the decon process. You can pick up or substitute wherever you see fit -
1. Apply iron remover to dry paint, allow to dwell. (this is the pH neutral part)
2. Foam an alkaline soap over the top, allow further time to dwell (this is the high pH part)
3. Rinse
4. Contact wash with an acid leaning soap (this is the low pH part)
5. Rinse
6. While the vehicle is still wet, go ahead with your clay step. I apply clay lube to each panel as I go.
7. Rinse (this removes the clay lube)
8. Dry using a prep spray as your "drying aid" (Gyeon Prep, Carpro Eraser ect). Doing this removes any lingering chemical residue, helps flash away moisture, and helps you to properly see the paint without anything masking imperfections
Because you will be polishing, don't micro-manage the clay step, especially since you are using the TRC clay scrubber. Just get in and get it done, then move onto the taping and polishing step.
Couple of other pointers -
- You can never use too much clay lube. I put it into a pump action or battery-operated sprayer such an iK Multi or Solo 260Li.
- That Gyeon Clay Lube is dilutable. While you can use it neat, Gyeon suggest it can be diluted up to 1:25, but I do it at 1:10 (91ml of product to 909ml of water, and because you will likely use it all or more in one session, you can use tap water).
- Be generous with the prep spray after polishing/before applying your protection (wax, sealant, ceramic coating).
Hope that helps.
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