Your problem is most likely due to the cord. Cheap replacement cords don't have the same capacity for data and charging as the factory cords or "fast charge" cords.
Non PP is a limited slip diff. PP is a Torsen diff. I mentioned this to you in another thread. Visually im not sure of the distinction underneath. But it's easy enough to tell the difference between a PP car and a non-PP car based on the wheels spoiler, and front lower grille inlet. Not to...
Well, update completed. I learned something new today. Thanks @Starship Enterprise for your help.
...now i just need to get this damn instrument cluster memory issue solved. Is no one else experiencing this?
Well I know from wrenching that a fully charged battery should be 12.6v or more. When running you should be above 13.5v.
I googled 12.3v, and it says that is about a 70% charge. 🤷‍♂️
Ok. Voltage check of the battery shows 12.3v at rest. It started at 14v on startup, then dropped to 13.5v for the duration of my drive. Obviously those are too low, so that seems to confirm a low battery condition as mentioned.
I broke out my battery tender that I use on my classic. Is it safe...