Well, I had the local dealership change the oil with my oil and filter purchased on RockAuto. There is a checklist when they deliver the car back to you, fluids, brake pad life, tread depth. I was surprised when reviewing the checklist to learn that my Trofeo RS tires, which have 4700 miles...
Oil temperatures are definitely different in different modes. Normal is the lowest temperature. Track is higher. I have not driven for any significant length of time in Drag Mode, those violent shifts are annoying.
Track mode is a lot more rpm = higher engine oil temperature.
I was...
That one was a 4 speed - Lesson 102 in Torque Capacity Ratings and how there ain't never been no 1960s/70s GM transmission built to handle what this dorky 80s kid was building to install in front of it. But, yeah, having a manual transmission made the camshaft and rpm range easier to live with...
I was a bit of an idiot when I was young, always pushing the boundaries on compression and camshaft lobe size.
Oh, this camshaft says it does not start until 3500 rpm? Perfect for my one car daily driver! :crackup:
3.73 gears with no overdrive is also just perfect for a drive all the way...
LOL, yeah, I do not know whether I will ever make it to 5000 miles on the dashboard prior to an oil change. I do baby mine a lot, but I also go to the track and I sometimes let it rip on the street (I know, I know, save it for the track).
My second oil change was today, at 4700 miles or so.
I...
I'll add that the old "let it idle for 30 seconds to a minute to let oil circulate" has nothing to do with modern oil pressure and flow in an engine like the Coyote.
I was watching my hot oil pressure at 74 psi or so while driving at 2000 rpm or a little more and thinking, "Back in the old days...
I pause only long enough to put on my seat belt and start up the podcast to which I am going to listen. It does no good at all to leave a cold engine idling. Plus, if it is very early in the morning, even on "Quiet" exhaust mode, the sound goes right through the house, and I figure if I drive...
I don't know how I would lower mine and not be constantly damaging something. You can probably tell in my avatar there is not a lot of ground clearance.
It looks like the 20s in the original post raise the car up just a little bit in comparison.
First things first - I am not a tire expert or some super fast track hero. So it could be that you are a better driver or drive harder than me and found the limits, whereas I am poking along in comparison.
Mine are slippery when I start out, especially lately as we have had a cold snap here...
I tried this out yesterday several times and could not notice the difference when switching exhaust mode only between Sport and Track
Sorry.
It did change the sound, but not throttle responsiveness or power or anything else I could discern.
Yes, understood. I was asking about the reference mode numbers, in the third chart down at the bottom. The chart that says all 4 for Track (which appears to be an instruction to stay open all the time).
Any idea what 4 means or 3 or 5 or 6 or 7? 1 is Quiet Mode in all gears. But normal...
:shock: Patience, ZXMustang, :punch: it was not readily apparent what we are looking at.
Thank you, this explanation helps translate what I am looking at to make (a little) more sense. :idea:
So question: The Active Exhaust Table selection, what you called "reference for the modes,"...
By "upward," I think he means that the front is lower, and the rear is higher, so that air striking the top of the splitter travels "upward." 0-3° - probably less is better for most.
It will "fit." It will probably look good, too, if you are over 50 and remember stuffing big fat tires on your 8 inch Centerline Autodrag wheels . . . oh, where was I?
Oh, yeah.
Anyway, for the reasons given above, the 305 would fit the rear wheel of your Dark Horse better. It is a lot...
Summary, he added 30% of his tank on a Stage 1 Whipple with E85, so an attempt at E30. Subjective impression after driving is that it pulls harder in the midrange.