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It’s called a Femtocell. It’s a mini cell antenna that uses the your internet for a backhaul to the provider.

Normally, I only lose a few custom settings with updates. This time, I lost nearly everything. Primary Dash Brightness Quiet Start Alarm / Motion Gauges

For a daily driver, it's likely moot, but some of us do auto-cross and other events where your oil temps can get pretty high.

You’re welcome.

PP cars also have a much thicker radiator and fans that push 500 CFM more … helping to lower coolant and head temps.

I don’t know what “used properly” means. Historically, synthetics were group IV (PAO). Then Castrol had to screw it up. Now you have something starting out as a group I or II being modified … now being a III and is classified as synthetic. It’s just too general of a word to make blanket...

But, there’s no actual temp sensor, it’s calculated. So, I don’t think the display will notice it. The PCM doens’t know if you have conventional/semi-syn/full-syn, even though those terms are a lot of marketing fluff anyway.

I got it from Motorcraft Services, as-built downloads: PP 7E0-162-02 0100 FE00 003C NonPP 7E0-162-02 0200 FE00 004C

Head temp definitely factors in to the oil temp algorithm. I'd guess that head temps are naturally lower when the AC is on because the radiator fan is on high? I don't know the algorithm details, but I do know it matters. It's pretty repatable for me.

Non PP car; no oil cooler in the algorithm. AC off my oil temps are 230. AC on, I'm 190-210.

Can someone with a Performance Pack GT tell me what your ForScan values are for (PCM): 7E0-02-02 7E0-162-02 Thanks

Seriously ... if you're going to compare oil temps, you need to also mention AC status. It matters.

It's an algorithm.

You need to pay attention to the AC status when looking at oil temps. It makes a big difference in our cars when it on vs off. It's higher when it's off. The general rule of thumb is that for every 10C increase in oil temp, the oxidation rate doubles.

Mine is a daily driver. It's about 15 miles one-way for me. I put it on a charger ever 3 months, when I hook it up it says I'm at a 50% charge. There's a noticable uptink in use of auto-start/stop when the battery is fully charged.

I'm in Virginia, which is far tamer than Michigan, and I run dedicated winter and summer tires. For an all season, you may have overlooked the Conti DWS06, it's a solid option. I'd go X-Ice snow if I were you.

Over the years, I've been burned too many times by Ford (and many other's) white peeling paint that I can't try it again. But I agree, it looks nice is and practical in high sunshine/heat states.

The Mustang Mach E also has 4 doors.

It's not just about the pads and shoes rusting to the braking surface, it's about things like the brake cable rusting / being wedged, making it not release. And, in super cold temps, water in items can freeze making it stick too.

And this is how I know you're not from the rust belt.