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DFB's Detailing Garage

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Subaru Forrester Refresh

This vehicle is owned by one of my gardening clients. I’ve detailed this car many times, but it's been quite a while since I’ve touched it. I’m currently house sitting for them, so I thought I’d treat the Subaru to a refresh. With 108,000 km on the clock, there is some wear and tear starting to appear, but it mostly just needed a dam good clean, especially the interior.

I ended up splitting this detail into two parts, the interior was first last week, and the exterior this week. And I’m glad I did because the interior required far more time than I had expected…………………………………………..

Interior Detail –

I hate doing interiors like this! And with two golden retrievers frequently riding in the back, I knew I was up for a fight!

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Vacuuming – I’m one of those people who likes to tackle the hardest task first, be that in detailing or for anything I do. On this Subaru, the carpet in the boot was clearly that task. I spent at least an hour attempting to remove the dog hair from the boot carpet and seat backs, I even removed the lift-up floor panel so that I could vac underneath. With cheap carpet throughout, this fought me all the way, and even then, I wasn’t happy with the result. I threw everything at it, including a Lily Brush, Fur-Eel vacuum attachment, the Tornador, even P&S Paint Gloss as a vacuum static aid. Eventually, I knew I had reached the limit of what I could achieve and decided to move on.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG_6316


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For the rest of the interior, I teamed the vacuum with the Tornador and Paint Gloss to address the carpets, seats, door trims and centre console. When using the Tornador, you always make more mess before it gets better. However, this tool is so handy to have, allowing you to dislodge debris from the carpet, console, door trims, air vents, and between the seats, in turn allowing easier removal via the vacuum.

The floor mats were given an initial blast with the Tornador, then misted with Pol Star and scrubbed with a carpet brush. From there, I used the Tornador and the vacuum turbo attachment in tandem to remove the Pol Star and remaining debris. To finish, I then misted with KCx Fresh Up before being put in the sun to dry. I also sprayed the carpets with Fresh Up, which is not just an interior scent, rather an odour neutralizer. And with being home to two dogs, and the little surprise I found later, there was some neutralizing to be done!

Cleaning – Following the vacuuming, I directed attention to the initial cleaning. First, the rubber cargo mat was pressure rinsed, then scrubbed with McKee’s and a tyre brush. It was then generously misted with P&S Swift and allowed to dry and self-level in the sun.

Apart from the dashboard, all interior plastics were cleaned using P&S Xpress and the Carpro InnerScrub Mitt, which is basically scrub ninja in glove format. The InnerScrub helps lather up Xpress, which is then followed with a towel to mop up the residue. The dashboard and console only needed a spray and wipe with Xpress. I even needed the Xpress for sections of the glass.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6321


The Little Surprise - Removing the rubber cup holder insert, I discovered a thick, sticky residue that was hidden underneath. Then the stench hit me................rotten milk from a spilled coffee. Yuk! To address this, I took the rubber insert over to the sink and cleaned it with Gtechniq Tri-Clean, which in addition to being a general interior cleaner, it contains anti-microbial agents. I then flooded the cup holder with Tri-Clean and sacrificed two TRC Rip-n-Rags.

At this point, I could still smell the milk on the rubber insert, so I sprayed with P&S Finisher, left it to soak for 5-minutes, then rinsed again in the sink. That sorted the smell. Finisher is the third step in their carpet cleaning trio, but it worked here as well.

Finisher completes the system by adding a final attack on odor causing molecules and organic stains. Finisher breaks down odor causing chemicals, eliminates any residual organic stains and slightly sterilizes the surface. Finisher assists in reducing water stains, mold and mildew odors as well as finalized stain removal. Finisher breaks down into oxygen and water, leaving no chemical residue left that requires further removal.
Leather – For the seats, console lid and steering wheel, I again used the InnerScrub, but teamed it with KCx Pol Star mixed at 6:1. A relatively strong ratio, at 6:1 it safely and effectively removes that shiny finish caused by a build-up of grime with NO need for a second pass. Again, a towel was used to remove the residue.

For protection and enhancement, I followed with Geist Leather Conditioner, applied using a microfiber brick and levelled with another interior towel. I’m liking this product more and more, in this case providing a subtle enhancement without being looking tacky.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6330


Glass – Both the windscreen and cargo area glass were nasty. Whenever presented with this sort of thing, it's too much to expect a single once over to deliver an acceptable result. In fact, it gets worse as you move from window to window as the towels become more and more loaded with funk. For the initial mow down, I went with the lethal smelling Angelwax Vision and two waffle weave towels. Even with all of the doors wide open, this stuff gets up your nose in an unpleasant way, a byproduct of the ammonia content. And yet, it's supposed to be tint safe.

Following that initial cleaning, I went back in with two FRESH towels and Invisible Glass.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6324


Dressing – I very rarely apply a dedicated interior dressing, mainly because I find its not needed on my garage queens, and partly because interior detailers have just the right amount of “enhancement” and UV inhibitors. However, this car sits outside 24/7, so it probably needs that extra UV protection. The interior plastics were looking a little dry too.

I went to grab an old favourite, 303 Protectant, but couldn’t find it in the cabinet. Remembering I let someone “borrow” it, I instead reached for KCx Top Star. Both products are similar in look and feel, producing a nicely balanced finish that’s not overloaded with gloss, but with enough sheen to see where you’ve been. Unlike 303, Top Star has a subtle, pleasant scent. This went on all plastic surfaces, as well as the vinyl door trim sections.

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Exterior Detail -

Last week, I actually started on the exterior before tackling the interior. This involved a rather quick foam and rinse using Bilt Hamber Touch-less, basically mowing down the bulk of the road film and bugs. So, the following is the more involved exterior cleaning session that followed.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG_6305


Wheels & Tyres – The Touch-less from last week did a sterling job on these wheels, so basically, today I’m finishing them off. As always, I like to pre-soak wheels with an iron-remover, Carpro WheelX the weapon of choice today. OMG, this stuff is totally revolting. I’m pretty used to iron removers now, but this is THE worst I have encountered. Now, apparently after the first batch, Carpro changed something within the formula to address the stench, but not this bottle! Regardless, I won’t be buying it again.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6420


From here, I then foam with Touch-less over the top and leave the wheels to continue soaking. After that, I then rinse to deliver a nearly clean wheel. Next, the tyres are scrubbed with Wise Guy, then foamed with Brake Buster for the contact wash of the wheel and wheel arch. After another rinse, I then apply Hydr02. While addressing the wheels, I like to scrub the black plastic cladding as I move around the vehicle, likewise the exhaust tip.

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Decontamination – Now technically, I’m just washing the car. But I also knew it would be heavily contaminated. So, extra time spent removing some of that without going overboard seemed like the right thing to do. To start, I applied Gyeon Iron to the whole vehicle from dry. And yep, pretty much instantly, the purple started to bleed through.

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Next, I foamed the whole car with Touch-less and allowed to continue soaking.

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After a very thorough rinse, I moved onto the next step.

Door Jambs – I hate neglected door jambs! They are tedious and messy to address. Normally, a careful quick blast with the pressure washer and a wipe down post wash is all you need to do. But these were feral! KCx Green Star and a brush was needed, followed by flushing with water. After the rest of the vehicle was washed and dried, I went back with some waterless wash and a towel to finish them off.

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Contact Wash – For this step, I used Carpro Descale. I like to use this as follow up to my iron remover and alkaline pre-soak process because not only does it target mineral deposits, but it also CLEANS very well. As always, the car is foamed with the soap and a little added to the bucket, then washed with the foam on the vehicle.

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Sqeeeeeeaky clean!

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Protection – After washing and while the car was still wet, I decided to make use of some Capro Hydr02 Foam that I already had mixed up. This was foamed, allowed to dwell, then rinsed. This provided a base layer of protection, gloss and slickness, which in turn helps with hydrophobic properties, which then helps with air drying.

Following that, a heavy application of P&S Defender, one of the longer lasting spray sealants on the market. Not a favourite of mine, but its simple to use and decently slick.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6475


Glass – The exterior glass needed to be given a quick hand polish with P&S Clarity Crème to remove some mild oxidation and etching that wasn’t removed during the cleaning process. Following this, I wiped down with Eraser, then the excellent Stoner’s Ceramic Glass Cleaner to add some hydrophobic properties to the surface.

Black Trim – Realistically, the black plastic cladding would look amazing with a Solution Finish treatment, but would the customer notice? Probably not. So, I went over it with a Carpro Reload, which quickly freshens the trim without turning into a streaky mess the next time it rains.

Tyre Dressing – Prior to dressing the tyres, I went over them with Mineral Spirits. I ended up following with a layer of Carpro Perl at 1:1.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6478


Finishing Touches -

Returning to the interior, I gave it a quick wipe over with P&S Swift, a final vacuum and a misting of interior scent (Angelwax Bliss). Returning to the exterior, I removed and cleaned the licence plate protectors, wiped the tyres down to level off the Perl, then a final wipe down of the paint with Bead Maker to make it POP.

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I spent over 7 hours on this vehicle, working non-stop over two sessions. Will I make money out of this detail? No, not even close. Chemicals are expensive, especially the iron removers. I don’t charge by the hour for detailing like I do for garden maintenance. Also, all the little extra’s that I do soak up time and product. However, the owners have looked after me for decades now, be that in terms of business, but also from an advisory perspective. So, when they arrive home tomorrow, there will be a little surprise sitting in the driveway.
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A fellow Autogeek member has been raving about this product for a while now, so I thought I'd better see what the fuss is about.......................

https://au.feynlab.com/product/feynlab-hybrid-ceramic-detailer/?attribute_pa_quantity=1-bottle-500ml

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FEYNLAB are mostly known for the stout ceramic coatings, so I've never really looked to far into the range. But, this product is supposed to offer a very easy user experience and rewards with extreme gloss and slickness. So, I keen to try this out.
 
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I've known about the FEYNLAB brand for a quite a while now. However, because they are heavily focused on ceramic coatings, I never really looked into the brand other than to see what they offer. What I didn't realize until now was how FEYNLAB were a pioneer in the ceramic coating industry, producing a range of coatings for automotive, marine, and aerospace, as well as the supporting maintenance products. Originally for professional use only, the brand has moved beyond that and now sells into the enthusiast market.

Global Pioneers in Automotive Ceramic Coating | FEYNLAB®

FEYNLAB AUSTRALIA – The Leader in Paint Protection

Researching this post, I came the following quotes -

FEYNLAB pioneered nano resin systems and continues to push the boundaries of this technology. One of our founders, John Suerth, first coined the term “Ceramic Coating” over 15 years ago, and no one better understands this topic.
Take note of the bolded part in the next quote. I'm led to believe FEYNLAB is where Pan sources his coatings and/or some of the other products that sells under the CLEAN by Pan The Organizer brand.

FEYNLAB first distributed its revolutionary coating products as a private label for well-known coating brands, quickly establishing an outstanding reputation for durability, appearance, and protection.
With the amount of trash-talk that is going on in the detailing circle at the moment regarding who makes their own products, and who simply white labels someone else's, I think this says a lot..................

Almost all of our materials arrive as raw commodities in simple 55-gallon drums. Unlike other producers, who outsource manufacturing, and nearly every FEYNLAB product is produced in-house.

Utilizing over 100 carefully-selected raw materials, FEYNLAB formulates our lineup of products. Controlling the manufacturing of chemicals and compounds allows the highest possible quality control for each product.
FEYNLAB complete control over all aspects of the manufacturing process puts us ahead of competitors in the nano coating and vehicle care industry. This strategy allows us to quickly release newly developed products while ensuring the highest quality standards.

We utilize automated filling machines for efficient, accurate, and controlled product bottling. Every bottle is manually inspected before tamper-proof sealing.

All products are carefully inspected again by our efficient in-house packaging and shipping department.
Which leads me to a product that a fellow Autogeek forum member urged me to try, FEYNLAB Hybrid Ceramic Detailer. Considering how much of a pioneer the brand has been, it's rather odd that this new product should be given such an unimaginative name..................how many other brands use the term "hybrid ceramic", in fact it makes me think of a whole range of products from Turtle Wax and Meguiar's and not of a high-end professional brand.

FEYNLAB® Hybrid Ceramic Detailer | Quick Shine Enhancement

FEYNLAB® HYBRID CERAMIC DETAILER – FEYNLAB AUSTRALIA

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As with any of these detail sprays, I'm generally using these as a post wash drying aid topper. While the brand claims 3-months durability, I really have no interest in that when it comes to drying aids and toppers. Instead, I'm looking for ease of use, slickness and gloss..............in that order. And this product delivers!

First, the ease of use is off the scale. FEYNLAB put an emphasis on reducing the possibility of streaking, and in that regard, they nailed it. Applied heavy or light, it doesn't really matter, the product simply flashes away with the wipe of a towel. The only other product that flashes away so easily would be ADS Amplify, but this is even better. That means less towel work.

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The gloss and slickness are there too, but probably not as class leading as the ease-of-use factor. I'd say Amplify has a slight advantage here, and products such as Bead Maker, Megs HCD or one of the Slipstream derivatives are slicker and glossier again. So, what do you prefer? Ease of use, or the highest possible gloss and slickness? I'll let you decide.

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Despite appearances, the XR6 needs to be polished at some point in the near future. I last corrected the vehicle at the end of December 2020, so I guess its time for a refresh. I probably need to invest in a paint thickness gauge at some point as well, especially for the XR6 as it's been polished many times over its 17-year life and I'm worrying about how much grace I have left.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage dec297
 
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Last week, Sean from Waxit asked if I would be willing to try out a few of the latest Koch Chemie products that have recently been released. Is the Pope catholic? Of course I would!

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All but the Perfect Finish Sealant were used today on the Ranger.

After cleaning the wheels and tyres, the first of these products I grabbed was WG Wet Gloss. This is a water activated spray and rinse touch-less sealant, basically Koch Chemie's take on Carpro Hydr02, Gyeon Wet Coat and ADS Beads. Unlike those competitors, Wet Gloss has a slight fragrance to it.

Koch Chemie WG Wet Gloss | Quick Detailer – Waxit Car Care

Application is the same, apply to a clean but still wet surface, then rinse immediately. Now, these wheels are coated so the before and after wasn't dramatic, in this case it's about maintaining that coating. For un-coated wheels, this product improves gloss and slickness, while also adding hydrophobic properties to help with drying. A quick and easy way to add protection and enhance your wheels without having to do an intensive wheels off detail. I also like to use these products for plastic wheel arch liners.

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Next, SCF Spotless Ceramic Finish, which is a different take on a water-spot and limescale remover. Where most products in this category are acidic to dissolve mineral deposits that cause water-spots, SCF is actually pH neutral. Now, results from water-spot removers can be hit and miss, but from what I had been told, SCF is one of the most effective yet.

Koch Chemie SCF | Water Spot Remover for Ceramic Coatings – Waxit Car Care

In this case, I used SCF to remove a few light water-spots on the roof, probably created when I had parked the car outdoors for a week. When sprayed onto a clean surface, you then allow SCF to briefly dwell, then wipe with a towel. From here, KCx suggest rinsing with water to remove any residue. Pleasingly, SCF did the trick on those water-spots. Amazingly, it also removed some stubborn water spots from my stainless-steel sink and chromed tap.

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After cleaning the interior, the finishing touch was a spritz of Fruit Fusion scent. Nothing revolutionary here, although I've found these last a little longer than some, as in not just an hour. Fruity Fusion joins the Cozy Cotton I got last week.

Koch Chemie Colourlock Interior Fragrance | Air Freshener Spray – Waxit Car Care

Lucky I didn't have those bottles around the other way! I wonder if the Germans realize what they are putting on some of their product labels?

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I also continued using FEYNLAB Hybrid Ceramic Detailer, which was called on for drying aid duties.

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Finishing things off, I grabbed an old favorite for the tyres, NV Onyx.
 
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One of the key reasons why I like Koch Chemie Pol Star is how it lathers up under agitation. This lather helps display where you've been and gives a visual impression that you are actually achieving something. To be fair, most interior cleaners do this, but Pol Star differs in that it's pH neutral. Now, some will argue that Pol Star is less capable for that reason...................but that's just not true. I've used it on filthy neglected leather and had it do a splendid job.

Koch Chemie (PO) Pol Star | Textile, Leather and Alcantara Cleaner – Waxit Car Care
Koch-Chemie - Pol Star | The Rag Company

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So, with that in mind, why are we using harsh alkaline APC's to clean interiors? And it's not a cost issue either, Pol Star is now incredibly affordable, especially when diluted as directed -

Light Cleaning - 20:1
Medium Duty - 10:1
Heavy Duty - 5:1

That lathering ability mentioned at the beginning also means Pol Star can foam. Not in a foam cannon, although that could be an interesting experiment. 🤔 No, in this case I'm talking about those pump action soap dispensers. In fact, Koch Chemie sell one for use with Pol Star, which mimics the same setup used by ColourLock for their leather cleaners and includes a handy dilution scale printed on the bottle.

Koch Chemie Foamer Bottle 150ml: High-Quality Foam Generation - Detailing Shed
Koch-Chemie - Foamer Bottle | The Rag Company

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage KCXBOTTLE


So why would you want a foaming interior cleaner? There are situations where spraying product ends up being quite messy, especially on vertical surfaces as it ends up running down and away from what you are trying to clean. However, foam allows that cleaner to stay in place. For this, you would be applying Pol Star into the bristles of your brush rather than directly onto a surface.

For example, a foaming cleaner is ideal for steering wheels, gear shifters and handbrake levers. Being vertical surfaces, foam allows you to control its application much better without making a mess.

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Foam is also ideal for spot cleaning fabrics. Why? Because in foam format, the product is less likely to oversaturate the area, which in turn makes removing the cleaning chemical afterwards much easier. Yes, the key to cleaning fabrics and carpet is the actual removal of the cleaner/dirt emulsion afterwards. Go heavy with the cleaner, well, you have more to take out. This also makes Pol Star in foam format ideal for Alcantara and suede, again, you are less likely to oversaturate the material.

Only one retailer in Australia carries the KCx branded pump foam bottles. But unbranded versions in a variety of sizes are available on Amazon and eBay. In my case, I went with 200ml versions, but I wouldn't go any smaller than 150ml for efficiency.

Clear Empty Foam Pump Bottle, Travel Soap & Shampoo Dispenser (4 Pack, 6.8oz/200ml) : Amazon.com.au

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I also tried the excellent P&S Xpress in one of these bottles and it worked just as well. Just be mindful that Xpress isn't pH neutral.

For larger surface areas like a leather seat, you would probably stick to a spray bottle and use your brush to lather up the product. However, as explained, a foaming cleaner has its place and advantages.
 


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Despite feeling off colour today, I forced myself to go outside and make the most of the lovely late winter sunshine. The plan was to wash the XR6 before swapping places with the Mustang and it cover going on.

The wheels were given a quick once over with OG Decon Soap, the tyres scrubbed with Brake Buster, Atom Mac on the rotors. I then rinsed the whole car and drove back into the garage for a rinse-less wash with ADS Hero, then dried using ADS Adapt.

Adapt is termed a water-less wash, which I think tends to limit its appeal. In reality, Adapt is just so versatile and has the potential to be used on just about every vehicle surface, inside and out. On paint, its super forgiving to use with little to no streaking and a lovely slick finish. Oh, and the scent is a real treat as well.

Armour Detail - ADAPT - Waterless Wash | The Rag Company
ARMOUR Detail Supply ADAPT Waterless Wash - Detailing Shed

In addition to drying aid duties, I also used Adapt for the door jambs and engine bay.

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With the wheels wiped over and the tyres dressed, the old girl was moved into position and covered up for a few weeks. It's the Mustang's turn!

And I'm calling it, spring is on the way, I can smell it in the air! And not just the air, but several fragrant late winter flowering plants have begun doing their thing, think Wattles, Early Cheer, Osmanthus and the delightfully intoxicating Daphne. Scent is probably my most alert sense, so I tend to be ruled by it. So, when I comment on a product scent, it's not because of hype or marketing, it's purely me following true to type.
 
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After I detailed this 2012 Toyota Landcruiser back in April, I noted that the headlights were needing attention due to heavy oxidation and crazing. The owners have been using the vehicle more and more for caravan towing, doing some big distances in the process. I mentioned the headlights weren't very roadworthy in that condition and would probably need to be addressed at some point.

This image from April doesn't fully depict just how bad they were..............

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Initially, I suggested the headlights could be polished out to buy some time, but the results would be short lived. Oxidation like this returns within a few months due to the degradation of the UV coating that is baked into the plastic at the factory. In the end, rather than investing time and money into something that would only yield short-term results, they decided to have the headlights replaced.

So, two brand new genuine Toyota headlights were installed yesterday. This was not a quick replacement, the job also involved removing that huge steel bull bar. With the bar out of the way, they could then remove the grill and truncated plastic bumper, which then gave access the headlight mounting hardware. So, two brand new genuine headlights, plus all of the labour to remove and re-install the bull bar, there wasn't much change out of $2000.

Before they took the vehicle in for this work, I asked if they could keep the old headlights so that I could have a go at re-finishing them. But when I went to pick them up this morning, I discovered just how truly massive these things are! When fitted to the vehicle, the headlight size is disguised by the sheer massiveness of the Landcruiser itself.

First off, I taped up the bulb locators to prevent getting moisture inside the lens. I then took some Green Star and a brush to clean off 13-years worth of dirt and grime from behind the unit and around the edges. For reference, this vehicle has been parked outdoors its whole life.

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Again, the camera hides how bad they are. While the oxidation covered the entire lens, the top edge facing toward the sky had become yellowed and crazed. Now, I knew I wouldn't get all of that out, not unless I disassembled the entire headlight unit, and that wasn't happening.

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I normally just polish headlights like this. In most cases a set of passes with a wool pad and a heavy compound knocks down the oxidation, then a pass with a finishing polish on a foam pad cleans them up. You won't get perfection, but considering how quick and simple this method is, the results are hardly disappointing.

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S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage jan21256


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage jan21257


As a general rule of thumb, you should never polish headlights unless needed. Just like paint, the more you polish, the more UV clear coating you remove, which in turn speeds up the decline. The thing is, if your headlights are showing signs yellowing or have a cloudy finish, that means the UV coating has already began to fail. In which case, polish away...............or replace them.

Just know that because the coating is compromised, the damage will continue to return, and return faster and faster after each polishing. The only way to stop this would be to lock in the finish with a clear coat or PPF. However, achieving a flat/uniform finish with clear coat is virtually impossible on headlights, and PPF is not always a readily available option for many. Also, ceramic coatings and dedicated headlight sealants only delay the inevitable, I know because I've tried them all.

On this occasion, I wanted to use these headlights as a learning platform, in particular wet sanding. This method requires considerably more time and effort, but is often required when the oxidation has progressed beyond what polishing alone can achieve. Also, if the UV clear coat has begun peeling or the headlight has a patchy look, wet sanding is your only option. In this situation, wet sanding will remove the remainder of the UV coating, in turn leveling the finish down to bare, smooth plastic.

First step, I stared with 400 grit. For lubrication during the whole sanding process, I used P&S Absolute at 128:1.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6831


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6830


From there, I worked my way through 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit. In hindsight, I would probably start with 600 or 800 grit in the future.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6836


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6838


The image directly above was taken after the 4000 grit. It was then time for polishing. I started with Sonax Cutmax on a Rupes blue wool, the most aggressive combo I have. From here, I switched to Sonax Perfect Finish on a ShineMate orange foam pad. This was my first time using the EB212, and wow, this thing is brilliant! Pad stall? What pad stall?

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6844


The side-by-side comparison is night and day!

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6848


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6850


Some crazing remains, which is locked inside the lens.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6856


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6865


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6858


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6861


The process was then repeated for the second headlight. At some point, I'll ceramic coat them to provide at least some UV protection. Having said that, they won't be going back on the car anyway.

This was my first attempt at wet sanding headlights, so the finished result is far from perfect. In the future, having another grade or two of sand paper would likely produce a better finish. But as I said, I was using these as a learning tool, the owners knew this as well.

But, clearly I did a good enough job because the owners were impressed with the night and day before result. I was then told I could keep or sell them.
 

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hey DBF5.0 if you like a challenge, I have two RTR Duckbill spoilers that will be going to the tip. If you're in Vic and you can't do anything with them you can dump them on Mustang Motorsports doorstep, maybe they could use them for Motorsport? I have sent an email today to Angus at Mustang Motorsport see if he can use them waiting on a response.
 
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hey DBF5.0 if you like a challenge, I have two RTR Duckbill spoilers that will be going to the tip. If you're in Vic and you can't do anything with them you can dump them on Mustang Motorsports doorstep, maybe they could use them for Motorsport? I have sent an email today to Angus at Mustang Motorsport see if he can use them waiting on a response.
Good luck getting a response from them, I emailed an enquiry months ago and never heard a word. Useless company.
 
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Cleaning carpet floor mats can be very tedious.

Normally, if I find carpet mats need more than a simple vacuum, I'll start by blasting them with compressed air first. This helps dislodge stubborn sand and debris, which in turn makes vacuuming easier.

If the mats are stained, I'll usually blast with compressed air, then lightly apply some carpet cleaner, agitate with a brush, then vacuum. I'll then put them in the sun to dry while I continue working on the vehicle. This method limits the amount of moisture introduced, which means not handing a car back with wet carpets.

Considering this car is not currently being used by the owner, I decided to try another method, basically the next step in carpet cleaning.....................

In the past, I've seen carpet mats being blasted by a pressure washer to properly flush out the dirt from the fibres. So, I'm going from "minimal" moisture to "fully" saturated! No turning back on this one.................

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6881


It's surprising how heavy these mats are when fully saturated.

You would never do this and leave it that way, not unless you have days for the carpet to dry. Otherwise, you need an extractor. Something I've always wondered while watching certain Youtube detailers go all-in ripping out seats, then fully saturating carpet with cleaning chemicals and extractors. Do they then keep the car until all of this dries out, or hand it back that way? This is rarely, if ever, addressed.

Anyway, I bought this Bissell a few years ago when they were on sale. At the time, I didn't necessarily need it, but the price was too good to ignore. It's sat in my cabinet ever since, again, the idea of handing cars back with wet carpet didn't appeal

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG_7445


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG_7449


After the blast with the pressure washer, the mats looked much cleaner, the high-pressure water removing that ingrained dirt that wouldn't lift with the vacuum. Even so, I then applied some KCx Pol Star, allowed it to soak, then went in with the extractor.

These extractors have two reservoirs, one for a cleaning chemical or clean water, the other holds the liquid extracted from the carpet. The chemical or clean water can then be sprayed onto the carpet as you work. This method would be used for fabric seats and carpet in situe. In my case, I used the Bissell simply for extraction purposes as the carpet was already wet and already had cleaning chemical applied.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6885


This was my first time using an extractor. Even after using the pressure washer, it was surprising how much extra funk the Bissell drew out of the carpet. And I have to say, it was deeply satisfying seeing all that water and dirt being sucked into the extractor head and into the tank.

The end result is by far the best finish I've ever achieved cleaning carpet mats. Once dried, I'm going to apply some 303 Fabric Guard, then follow with some KCx Fresh Up to kill off any odours.
 

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Damn dude, you have to give tips on your photos!!! LOL I'm still working on my online store while my inventory is on the water (t minus 30 days until arrival... maybe).... and product shots have been the most challenging to do so far.
 
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Damn dude, you have to give tips on your photos!!! LOL I'm still working on my online store while my inventory is on the water (t minus 30 days until arrival... maybe).... and product shots have been the most challenging to do so far.
I wish I was in a position to do something similar, I could sell this stuff in my sleep.
 
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Woke this morning to a frosty -4 degrees outside. For 20 years, I had to endure those early morning winter temperatures, be that in my own business or at the nursery. I got quite good at layering up with thermal clothing, but those layers didn’t prevent painful frozen fingers and toes, made worse by my diabetes. In the later years, I was using those thermal toe warmer packs, which I’d also put inside my garden gloves. These worked very well to get you through the first few hours until the sun took the edge off. If nothing else, a frosty morning at least meant a lovely sunny day would follow. It’s funny, when you pursue a career in Horticulture, you end up becoming a meteorologist as well.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6887


These days, I’m not expected to be outside while the rest stay indoors with the heater on, you know, just in case a customer decided to buy a plant in -4 temperatures (which they never did, I know I wouldn’t). I also have flexibility to start my working day whenever I feel like it. No more frozen fingers and toes. And that makes me happy.

So, after things had thawed out a little, I made a start on the Wildtrak. I’m so glad I got this car coated before the cold months set in, it’s made cleaning off winter road grime so much easier. That coating also means I can use more effective pre-treatment chemicals without stripping protection.

To start with today, I removed the rubber floor mats and popped the hood. I then applied Bilt Hamber Touch-less to the lower body, wheels, floor mats and engine bay. While the Touch-less did its thing on the paint, I scrubbed the floor mats, followed by a little agitation of the engine bay with Detail Factory and EZ-Detail brushes. From here, the whole car including the floor mats and engine bay was rinsed. With the floor mats drying in the sun, a healthy dose of Meguiar’s Hyper Dressing (mixed at 4:1) went onto the engine bay, followed by a quick blast with the EGO to removed excess water and distribute the dressing.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6889


With this method of engine bay detailing, you will end up with some Hyper Dressing on the exterior surfaces, which is why you do this step prior to washing. With the hood closed, you can then rinse any overspray and continued with the rest of the job.

After cleaning the wheels and tyres with Brake Buster and Carpro ReTyre, I then attacked the rest of the car with Carpro Reset. Following that, I foamed with Hydr02 Foam, which is proving quite useful as a foam & rinse coating topper. After a hit with the EGO, Megs HCD was the drying aid.

The interior wasn’t too bad this time around, so a quick vacuum and wipe down with ADS Pilot, leather included. Glass was via P&S True Vue, which is good at this time of the year as you can richen the mix to help with evaporation in colder conditions (4:1 in winter, 10:1 for summer). A quick spritz of KCx Cozy Cotton and the floor mats reinstalled, the interior was done.

Finally, I prepped the tyres with Stoner’s Tarminator, then followed with a fresh application of ADS Ghost. On these tyres, I’ve found they need two layers. I then popped the hood and mopped up any remaining water/Hyper Dressing.

S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6891


S650 Mustang DFB's Detailing Garage IMG-6898f


With a car booked tomorrow, I then went ahead and started refilling bottles and mixing up dilutions, ready for action in the morning. This is one of my favourite detailing activities, a cliché I know, but I find it strangely satisfying. Today I also finished off a few bottles of product, which is also extremely satisfying as it either means getting rid of a dud product or justifies a shopping spree for more! :rockon:
 

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That hyperdressing is no joke! The last time I did my engine bay I started with an NV Snow+ foaming and then when I rinse that, I applied the hyper dressing dilution and walked away. Came back a few hours later, and I did not recognize my engine bay!!!
 
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That hyperdressing is no joke! The last time I did my engine bay I started with an NV Snow+ foaming and then when I rinse that, I applied the hyper dressing dilution and walked away. Came back a few hours later, and I did not recognize my engine bay!!!
It's one of their best products. Ironically, its one of their oldest too.
Sponsored

 
 








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