OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #152
Tool Cleaning Day………………………………
Surprise, surprise, I like clean tools. Considering my line of work, that isn’t always possible, so it ends up being an occasional attempt. It doesn’t help when someone returns a borrowed tool in dirty condition……………………
Kranzle K1152 –
This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology. That same person also borrowed my new MS271 chainsaw, then returned it filthy and covered in sap. Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later! My neighbour once told me that “you can lend your wife, but not your chainsaw”. Not a very PC thing to say these days, but the notion of not lending good tools I can certainly appreciate, thus I don’t recommend lending your $2000 pressure washer or near-new chainsaw.
Ironically, the best way to clean a pressure washer is..............with another pressure washer. But first, the hose was dragged all the way out, then Brake Buster applied to it and the machine itself. A little light agitation with a soft brush, then everything was rinsed. Following that, some Hydr02 to assist with drying, then Shine Supply Decked Out to add some lustre to the plastics.
I feel so much better now!
Husqvarna 522L -
I bought this trimmer back in November 2018, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most reliable pieces of machinery I’ve ever owned. At the time, it was the first non-Stihl branded tool I had bought, so a leap of faith on my part. And it was a leap that’s paid off.
And over the 6.5-years it’s been in service, I’ve done very little to it. Service items include 1 air filter, 1 fuel filter, and 1 spark plug. The OE-fit cutting head was replaced by a Speed feed head, which had its bump cap replaced last year. The muffler spark arrestor has been removed and inspected probably three times, but this thing burns so clean that I’ve never needed to clean it. And finally, regular greasing of the gearbox. Other than that, I’ve not had it break down or require repair.
Out of curiosity, I recently yanked the muffler off to inspect the bore and piston, both look almost new. Other than the initial fill from the dealer when I bought it, this unit has been run exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra. Just a word of warning, when shopping, there are two "HP" oils. The regular red HP is mineral based, and despite claims otherwise, I've found this stuff plugs up exhaust screens and exhaust ports in no time. The HP Ultra is fully synthetic and a murky green/brown colour.
Being a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil, it's said to burn cleaner, which means less carbon deposits both inside and out of the engine. The lack of carbon keeps the muffler screen and exhaust port cleaner for longer, which means less maintenance and more performance. Stihl also suggests HP Ultra can clean the piston, crankcase and cylinder of engines ran on mineral based oil and fuel mixes. I have seen where it did indeed lightly remove carbon from an older engine, but it's probably better to start using it from the beginning of the engine's life. It's expensive, but that is balanced by reduced maintenance and longer machine life. There is a certain subset who don't like this oil, some even calling it muddy-water-fuel. But as far as I'm concerned, the proof is in the pudding.
I'm very much a numbers man, so this is a basic run down of what the 522L has cost me over the years, excluding fuel.
Purchase Price 2018 - $424.00 (in 2025, these retail for $679!!)
Air Filter – $19.50 (Filter and pre-filter)
Fuel Filter – $17.95 (OEM)
NGK BPMR8Y Spark Plug – $7.95
Speed Feed Head – $59.95
Head Bump Cap - $25.00
Grease - $3.00 (approx.)
TOTAL: $557.35 (AUD)
Considering the number of lawns it has been used on over the last 7 years, that total is miniscule. In addition to its reliability, I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market, just 4.2 kg where most start at 5.0 kg. The 522L also has an excellent anti-vibration system that cured the jitters I would get from previous trimmers. In both cases, I'd happily pay a premium for those benefits.
Anyway, I was looking at the 522 the other day and thought it was about time to remove the years' worth of grime that had accumulated.
Another thing to admire with the 522L is how the majority of the exterior components can be removed independently. This is especially noticed on the starter, which can be removed for service via three T27's and without other pieces needing to come off the machine.
Each piece was pre-soaked with Surfex HD at 1:1, then scrubbed in the parts washer, which has Surfex mixed at 4:1. The exception being the starter, which in an attempt to avoid oversaturating the recoil parts, I used compressed air first to remove the bulk of the grime. After each piece was scrubbed, I rinsed using clean water and applied Meg's Hyper Dressing.
From there, I used compressed air, Surfex and the pressure washer to clean the engine assembly, shaft, gearbox and debris guard. The air filer on a trimmer never really need attention due to how the engine operates above the dust zone, so I just gave them a quick blow out.
It was then time to reassemble.........................
Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it.
Surprise, surprise, I like clean tools. Considering my line of work, that isn’t always possible, so it ends up being an occasional attempt. It doesn’t help when someone returns a borrowed tool in dirty condition……………………
Kranzle K1152 –
This was actually on the to-do list waaaay back in September last year. Someone borrowed my beloved pressure washer without asking, then returned it covered in mud…………..and no apology. That same person also borrowed my new MS271 chainsaw, then returned it filthy and covered in sap. Anyway, the day I was going to return the pressure washer to DFB-spec, my Dad decided he would borrow it as well……………………………. I only got it back on Monday, 9-months later! My neighbour once told me that “you can lend your wife, but not your chainsaw”. Not a very PC thing to say these days, but the notion of not lending good tools I can certainly appreciate, thus I don’t recommend lending your $2000 pressure washer or near-new chainsaw.
Ironically, the best way to clean a pressure washer is..............with another pressure washer. But first, the hose was dragged all the way out, then Brake Buster applied to it and the machine itself. A little light agitation with a soft brush, then everything was rinsed. Following that, some Hydr02 to assist with drying, then Shine Supply Decked Out to add some lustre to the plastics.
I feel so much better now!
Husqvarna 522L -
I bought this trimmer back in November 2018, and I have to say, it’s been one of the most reliable pieces of machinery I’ve ever owned. At the time, it was the first non-Stihl branded tool I had bought, so a leap of faith on my part. And it was a leap that’s paid off.
And over the 6.5-years it’s been in service, I’ve done very little to it. Service items include 1 air filter, 1 fuel filter, and 1 spark plug. The OE-fit cutting head was replaced by a Speed feed head, which had its bump cap replaced last year. The muffler spark arrestor has been removed and inspected probably three times, but this thing burns so clean that I’ve never needed to clean it. And finally, regular greasing of the gearbox. Other than that, I’ve not had it break down or require repair.
Out of curiosity, I recently yanked the muffler off to inspect the bore and piston, both look almost new. Other than the initial fill from the dealer when I bought it, this unit has been run exclusively on Stihl HP Ultra. Just a word of warning, when shopping, there are two "HP" oils. The regular red HP is mineral based, and despite claims otherwise, I've found this stuff plugs up exhaust screens and exhaust ports in no time. The HP Ultra is fully synthetic and a murky green/brown colour.
Being a fully synthetic 2-stroke oil, it's said to burn cleaner, which means less carbon deposits both inside and out of the engine. The lack of carbon keeps the muffler screen and exhaust port cleaner for longer, which means less maintenance and more performance. Stihl also suggests HP Ultra can clean the piston, crankcase and cylinder of engines ran on mineral based oil and fuel mixes. I have seen where it did indeed lightly remove carbon from an older engine, but it's probably better to start using it from the beginning of the engine's life. It's expensive, but that is balanced by reduced maintenance and longer machine life. There is a certain subset who don't like this oil, some even calling it muddy-water-fuel. But as far as I'm concerned, the proof is in the pudding.
I'm very much a numbers man, so this is a basic run down of what the 522L has cost me over the years, excluding fuel.
Purchase Price 2018 - $424.00 (in 2025, these retail for $679!!)
Air Filter – $19.50 (Filter and pre-filter)
Fuel Filter – $17.95 (OEM)
NGK BPMR8Y Spark Plug – $7.95
Speed Feed Head – $59.95
Head Bump Cap - $25.00
Grease - $3.00 (approx.)
TOTAL: $557.35 (AUD)
Considering the number of lawns it has been used on over the last 7 years, that total is miniscule. In addition to its reliability, I specifically love how light this machine is compared to every other straight-shaft trimmer on the market, just 4.2 kg where most start at 5.0 kg. The 522L also has an excellent anti-vibration system that cured the jitters I would get from previous trimmers. In both cases, I'd happily pay a premium for those benefits.
Anyway, I was looking at the 522 the other day and thought it was about time to remove the years' worth of grime that had accumulated.
Another thing to admire with the 522L is how the majority of the exterior components can be removed independently. This is especially noticed on the starter, which can be removed for service via three T27's and without other pieces needing to come off the machine.
Each piece was pre-soaked with Surfex HD at 1:1, then scrubbed in the parts washer, which has Surfex mixed at 4:1. The exception being the starter, which in an attempt to avoid oversaturating the recoil parts, I used compressed air first to remove the bulk of the grime. After each piece was scrubbed, I rinsed using clean water and applied Meg's Hyper Dressing.
From there, I used compressed air, Surfex and the pressure washer to clean the engine assembly, shaft, gearbox and debris guard. The air filer on a trimmer never really need attention due to how the engine operates above the dust zone, so I just gave them a quick blow out.
It was then time to reassemble.........................
Back to spec! Here's hoping I get another 7-years out of it.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #154
The XR8 was let out of captivity on the weekend, and boy did she love the crisp winter air! In such conditions, this is a car that you need to hand on for dear life, especially when you have full traction and the torque limiting is unleased from third gear onward.
Of course, the side benefit of having the car out…………………………. I get to wash it!
The wheels were cleaned with Reset, tyres with Brake Buster. I then rinsed the whole car thoroughly before moving back into the garage for a rinse-less wash. Product of choice, Opti-Coat No Rinse. I keep forgetting how good this product is, if you like a slick feel during and after, look no further.
Optimum Opti-Coat No Rinse Wash (473ml) - Detailing Shed
Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company
Originally, this product was only available from Opti-Coat installers as part of an exclusive maintenance range. In addition to the lack of availability, it carries a premium price tag and only comes in 473ml / 16-oz bottles. So, its clearly not for everyone, but its pure joy to use.
As you can see, I carried the Optimum/Opti-Coat theme going. The Gloss Enhancer was lightly used as a drying aid, less is more with that product. While Opti-No-Rinse is brilliantly slick on its own, I wanted to see how the two products played together. The excellent Glass Clean and Protect finished off the exterior glass.
Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer Concentrate - Detailing Shed
Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer | The Rag Company
Optimum Opti Glass Clean & Protect - 504ml - Glass Coating - Detailing Shed
Opti-Coat - Opti-Glass Clean & Protect | The Rag Company
Some Clean Maker went on the wheels, the tyres got a layer of OG Tire Dressing. Back to DFB spec, the XR8 was moved back into its spot and covered up for another day.
Of course, the side benefit of having the car out…………………………. I get to wash it!
The wheels were cleaned with Reset, tyres with Brake Buster. I then rinsed the whole car thoroughly before moving back into the garage for a rinse-less wash. Product of choice, Opti-Coat No Rinse. I keep forgetting how good this product is, if you like a slick feel during and after, look no further.
Optimum Opti-Coat No Rinse Wash (473ml) - Detailing Shed
Opti-Coat - No Rinse | The Rag Company
Originally, this product was only available from Opti-Coat installers as part of an exclusive maintenance range. In addition to the lack of availability, it carries a premium price tag and only comes in 473ml / 16-oz bottles. So, its clearly not for everyone, but its pure joy to use.
As you can see, I carried the Optimum/Opti-Coat theme going. The Gloss Enhancer was lightly used as a drying aid, less is more with that product. While Opti-No-Rinse is brilliantly slick on its own, I wanted to see how the two products played together. The excellent Glass Clean and Protect finished off the exterior glass.
Optimum Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer Concentrate - Detailing Shed
Instant Detailer & Gloss Enhancer | The Rag Company
Optimum Opti Glass Clean & Protect - 504ml - Glass Coating - Detailing Shed
Opti-Coat - Opti-Glass Clean & Protect | The Rag Company
Some Clean Maker went on the wheels, the tyres got a layer of OG Tire Dressing. Back to DFB spec, the XR8 was moved back into its spot and covered up for another day.
OP
OP
DFB5.0
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #155
I think its pretty safe to say that I’m fairly anal when it comes to detailing towels and microfiber. Be that the buying of towels, having the right towel for each task, selecting a weave type that will suit my methods, how many towels I need per car, even what colour they should be. But most importantly, how they are cleaned, dried and stored.
A products performance and ultimately the end result will only be as good as the towel paired with said product. And that not only applies to poor quality towels, but also good quality towels improperly maintained. You can buy the most expensive premium blend Korean towels, but they will only deliver that premium feel for so long without proper care. Now, I have covered microfiber selection and care multiple times, so feel free to follow the below links.
Microfiber 101 with DFB | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
Microfiber Towel Care | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
However, I’ve recently changed my process for laundering microfiber towels. For the most part, each step remains, but with one key alteration…………………….
- Place used towels in a clean bucket with sealable lid to prevent the products from drying within the fibres while I continue to work.
- Where possible, never leave used towels sitting for more than a few hours, wash them ASAP! I know the temptation is to wait until you have a full load to launder, but you significantly risk ruining your towels by doing this. The sealable bucket helps here as it prevents the products setting up in the fibres.
- Using Rag’s To Riches as the detergent, I run towels through the washing using the lowest heated setting. If they are excessively dirty, I will use an the “intensive” or extended cycle. The heated water is something I’ve been doing for a while now, which in theory helps purge grime from the towels better.
- Air dry towels indoors, then fold and store in airtight containers, inspecting each as you go for foreign material not removed from the wash (this can happen to the best of us).
For the longest time, I have air-dried towels indoors. Excessive heat can damage (read: melt) the fibres, while indoor drying helps prevent contamination from dust and debris carried by the wind.
However, on several occasions now, I’ve noted comments saying that running towels through the dryer will produce softer towels with less chance of linting. I’d previously dismissed the use of a dryer due to always being of the belief that heat was an enemy to microfiber. But in the last month or so, I’ve switched to using the dryer. And WOW, what a difference!!
To clarify, you should NOT be putting microfiber towels into a dryer and running the machine on the highest setting. You WILL ruin your towels by doing that. Instead, choose the lowest heat setting and run them over a longer period. Also, clean the lint trap before starting. Regardless of material, you should be doing that every time you use a dryer anyway, but on microfiber, its especially important.
The combination of warmth and airflow helps fluff the fibres and draws any potential lint into the trap. The result is a considerably smoother, softer towel. This is especially noticeable on plusher towels such as the Eagle Edgeless, Bowden’s BGS, Gauntlet and wash media. Below are two plush 500 gsm Eagle Edgeless towels. The one of the left was air dried, the one of the right went through the dryer. If you look closely, the towel on the right is fluffier and its fibres are finely separated. The air dried towel on the left has its fibres laying flat and almost matted together. In the second photo, this explains why you can see the imprint of my hand on the machine dried towel, but less so on the air dried version.
So, if you feel like your towels have lost some of their softness, even with appropriate care, then I’d highly suggest trying the use of a drier. Likewise if you are having problems with linting. It might just save you having to buy new towels.
A products performance and ultimately the end result will only be as good as the towel paired with said product. And that not only applies to poor quality towels, but also good quality towels improperly maintained. You can buy the most expensive premium blend Korean towels, but they will only deliver that premium feel for so long without proper care. Now, I have covered microfiber selection and care multiple times, so feel free to follow the below links.
Microfiber 101 with DFB | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
Microfiber Towel Care | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com
However, I’ve recently changed my process for laundering microfiber towels. For the most part, each step remains, but with one key alteration…………………….
- Place used towels in a clean bucket with sealable lid to prevent the products from drying within the fibres while I continue to work.
- Where possible, never leave used towels sitting for more than a few hours, wash them ASAP! I know the temptation is to wait until you have a full load to launder, but you significantly risk ruining your towels by doing this. The sealable bucket helps here as it prevents the products setting up in the fibres.
- Using Rag’s To Riches as the detergent, I run towels through the washing using the lowest heated setting. If they are excessively dirty, I will use an the “intensive” or extended cycle. The heated water is something I’ve been doing for a while now, which in theory helps purge grime from the towels better.
- Air dry towels indoors, then fold and store in airtight containers, inspecting each as you go for foreign material not removed from the wash (this can happen to the best of us).
For the longest time, I have air-dried towels indoors. Excessive heat can damage (read: melt) the fibres, while indoor drying helps prevent contamination from dust and debris carried by the wind.
However, on several occasions now, I’ve noted comments saying that running towels through the dryer will produce softer towels with less chance of linting. I’d previously dismissed the use of a dryer due to always being of the belief that heat was an enemy to microfiber. But in the last month or so, I’ve switched to using the dryer. And WOW, what a difference!!
To clarify, you should NOT be putting microfiber towels into a dryer and running the machine on the highest setting. You WILL ruin your towels by doing that. Instead, choose the lowest heat setting and run them over a longer period. Also, clean the lint trap before starting. Regardless of material, you should be doing that every time you use a dryer anyway, but on microfiber, its especially important.
The combination of warmth and airflow helps fluff the fibres and draws any potential lint into the trap. The result is a considerably smoother, softer towel. This is especially noticeable on plusher towels such as the Eagle Edgeless, Bowden’s BGS, Gauntlet and wash media. Below are two plush 500 gsm Eagle Edgeless towels. The one of the left was air dried, the one of the right went through the dryer. If you look closely, the towel on the right is fluffier and its fibres are finely separated. The air dried towel on the left has its fibres laying flat and almost matted together. In the second photo, this explains why you can see the imprint of my hand on the machine dried towel, but less so on the air dried version.
So, if you feel like your towels have lost some of their softness, even with appropriate care, then I’d highly suggest trying the use of a drier. Likewise if you are having problems with linting. It might just save you having to buy new towels.
Frogdog1
Well-Known Member
The population of Austrailia is only 26 million. If you draw a half circle from Los Angeles to San Diego, that's about how many people live there. Manufacturing vehicles for a population of only 26 million (plus a few exports) isn't a profitable venture. I know that to be true as I was over a company that designed and built over the road vehicles in Australia as well as one in the states.To kick things off, here is a recent detail.
Sanity detailing today, the XR8 was next in line. Tires were cleaned with Shine Supply Wise Guy, wheels and body washed with Carpro Reset. After drying, I went over the tires with Tarminator to give them a reset, then dressed with ADS Tire+.
But it's the Amplify I want to focus on. Not sure why, but I have struggled with streaking on this car for a quite a while now, especially on the hood. And that covers a wide range of products including polymer spray sealants, ceramic spray detailer/sealants, simple quick detailers, even a rinse-less wash.
In recent times, I've had nothing but good things to say about ADS Amplify, especially in relation to its ability to wipe on and flash away to a streak-free finish. Using it on the XR8 was going to be its biggest challenge though. So, you can imagine how pleased I am knowing that Amplify passed this test and delivered a streak free finish on the XR8 for first time in ages. So, I used it on the paint, glass, door jambs, engine bay, wheels and exhaust tips.
AMPLIFY - Detail Spray – Armour Detail Supply
This car doesn't get driven very often, but when it does, it's always a special occasion. It also turns 10-years old in November. Of all my cars, this is the one I'm most protective of, they simply don't make them anymore and are virtually irreplaceable. I bought this car as a keepsake, it marks a moment in time when Australian's built their own cars. These high-performance Falcons were "our" Mustang, the powerful V8's and turbo-charged inline 6's were what made them a weapon.
When Ford announced the closure of their Australian factories and the retirement of the Falcon nameplate, I was gutted. Think of it this way, how would you feel if Ford decided to close Flat-Rock and discontinue the Mustang after 60 years? It would be like a punch to the gut. That's how Aussie Ford fans felt, and still do to this day. I'm lucky to have owned and driven a number of them over the years, the very first car I ever drove was a Falcon! At the moment, I have two that will never leave me, both factory ordered by me to my spec. They may be just a humble "tarted up taxi", but they represent so much more to me.
And if you wondering what these cars have to do with a Mustang, well the XR8 uses the gen-1 Coyote block and heads as the starting point, Ford then hand built them in Australia using a variety of locally sourced parts, the signature touch being a Harrop Supercharger. This was the first factory supercharged Coyote in the world! To protect the driveline, these engines only rev to 6250rpm and not the 6800 to 7500 used on Mustang Coyote's. Not that it needs those extra revs, the supercharger makes it pull from idle to rev limit.
Each engine has the initials of the tech who assembled it engraved below the supercharger snout, mine made by Mr. Stevie Voice.
Thanks for reading!
We decided to sell or close the Australian company as the profit was very hard to come by. We couldn't sell it for the sames reasons we had problems, so we shut down operations. So, that's what's going on in the cessation of automobile manufacturing there. Australians are very innovation and they have other good qualities but being in business always requires profit and some people believe that to be a "dirty" word. It's just a fact of being in business. FWIW.
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