DarkHorseTT
Well-Known Member
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Cobra Jet Manifold (for S650)
Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
Well, in the video in post #41, they show changes. Components were not swapped and dynoed one at a time, but you can see the difference before and after, as they posted an earlier dyno run.
DarkHorseTT
Well-Known Member
I think I will go to Lund
callmond
New Member
I should underline that our "R" series cams are the best fit for modified cars. These will frequently perform best with driveline mods (rear end ratio changes, higher stall converters) and high flowing induction systems.
If you're concerned about daily drivability, be aware we also have a shorter duration cam set - the S1 - that may be a better fit. The best cam is frequently the shortest duration cam that will perform in the RPM range you want to drive in. Cams are not the place where "if some is good, more is better, and too much is just right"
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Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
But is the S1 the best fit for his combination with the Cobra Jet manifold and looking to decrease the time spent on his 100-200km acceleration (62 mph -124mph)? He is going to be above 6000 rpm for that entire run even if the tuner does not raise the shift rpm (and the tuner probably will raise the shift rpm). This is like the Russian version of 60-130 Dragy rolls here in the US. Most start out at a lower speed (like 40 mph) so that they are full throttle and at high rpm by the time they cross the starting speed (62 mph = 100 kph).I should underline that our "R" series cams are the best fit for modified cars. These will frequently perform best with driveline mods (rear end ratio changes, higher stall converters) and high flowing induction systems.
If you're concerned about daily drivability, be aware we also have a shorter duration cam set - the S1 - that may be a better fit. The best cam is frequently the shortest duration cam that will perform in the RPM range you want to drive in. Cams are not the place where "if some is good, more is better, and too much is just right"
I am not a camshaft designer or an engine builder, and I admit to thinking bigger is better in my youth, which resulted in a lot of rowdy, unstreetable commuter cars, lol, but it seems incontrovertible that the R series of camshafts are going to deliver better 100kph to 200kph acceleration.
And how rowdy is the R2 at idle if you keep VCT and let the ECU control the advance and retard of all four camshafts?
DarkHorseTT
Well-Known Member
sir, please let know, if Install themI should underline that our "R" series cams are the best fit for modified cars. These will frequently perform best with driveline mods (rear end ratio changes, higher stall converters) and high flowing induction systems.
If you're concerned about daily drivability, be aware we also have a shorter duration cam set - the S1 - that may be a better fit. The best cam is frequently the shortest duration cam that will perform in the RPM range you want to drive in. Cams are not the place where "if some is good, more is better, and too much is just right"
1. Shall I gain some power? How much? I have cobra jet and Steeda CAI + LTH
2. Will it be comfortable for daily use?
3. Do I need additional spare parts for this? Spring or smth?
Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
I am not the rep, and I do not even have an R2 camshaft, but, yes, you need springs and titanium retainers (both springs and retainers are available for less than 800 American dollars), and, of course, a tuner who is familiar with the camshafts and the VCT system and how to use VCT to gain a smooth idle and the most power in the rpm range you are going to be using when accelerating. They recommend:
- RPM (active VCT): 5,800-8,500 (~8,100 peak)
ZXMustang
Well-Known Member
These are not the cars to install cams on. Just go boost. Job done. Time and time again folks come to this realization that its just not worth it on a small V8 like the 5.0. You end up needing to run them to 9k rpm to make use of that extra power, and you really lose the bottom end where 90% of your driving will be. And it sucks, and it makes the car feel slow but you also gain all the quirks of having cams. drivability issues. Just not worth the cost. Unless you are absolutely no nonsense MAX EFFORT every horse penny no expense spared. Then you would need them to make say 1500hp. Actually probably not even with the right boost/fuel set up.
DarkHorseTT
Well-Known Member
I had boosted car,
Dark horse is my atmo project, we made great numbers, but looking to make more power without nitrous
Junkyard Dog
Well-Known Member
Steeda is now running 9s with no boost. They are running GSC camshafts (and sell them).
Their dyno sheet does not show 9,000 rpm.
The rpm at the horsepower peak is at 6,557 rpm. The dyno chart does not look like anything I would want to run to 9000 rpm. You?
You can see their dyno chart about five and a half minutes into this YouTube video:
robvas
Well-Known Member
It holds almost all of that to 8,000 rpm though.
It's all about average HP anyway. I'm sure they could have found a peakier cam profile.
Their S550 car had comp cams stage 3 bumps ticks in it, 570-something on the dyno, with a cobrajet.
DarkHorseTT
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DarkHorseTT
Well-Known Member
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