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Gregs24

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You should still use your battery tender to maintain and keep the battery in top condition. Even if you don't think it needs it....but it does.
Actually it can be a bad thing. Keeping a battery at 100% charge leaves no headroom for the battery and risks over-charging which is a bad thing. The BMS maintains the battery at 80% SOC normally although this can be changed using Forscan for example to 85% or a little more.
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glenng6

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Using a battery tender on a DD isnt normal or needed. If your's does, then the battery is likely on its way out.
I agree! After 20 years of maintaining batteries, up to six at a time, you should not need to be on a tender/charger routinely. If you store for the winter, then it is definitely a good idea. If modern batteries are allowed to drain, they may never work properly again. Having said that, if I have a battery that doesn't charge the first time, I will often give it a boost charge multiple times and, in between, keep it on a trickle charge. I have had batteries take 4-5 days to complete a charge, and after that, they work fine. Another observation I have made is that problem batteries may only charge to 95% and not 100%. Glenn
 

Gregs24

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I agree! After 20 years of maintaining batteries, up to six at a time, you should not need to be on a tender/charger routinely. If you store for the winter, then it is definitely a good idea. If modern batteries are allowed to drain, they may never work properly again. Having said that, if I have a battery that doesn't charge the first time, I will often give it a boost charge multiple times and, in between, keep it on a trickle charge. I have had batteries take 4-5 days to complete a charge, and after that, they work fine. Another observation I have made is that problem batteries may only charge to 95% and not 100%. Glenn
Yes, a trickle charger (good one) will never maintain at 100% for the same reason the car doesn't. It will reach a 'float' stage where it allows the SOC to drop a little.
 

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I used my battery tender on my Optima Red top on my last Mustang. That battery lasted over 10 years, and the only reason I had to swap it out was because the neg terminal corroded loose.

There is no harm in keeping a battery in top condition.

Now, does a daily driven need a tender? On paper, no, but the way this software is, there is no guarantee of a parasitic drain or update failure due to a battery not having enough charge.

Just some thoughts....I'm going to keep doing what I do.
 

glenng6

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I used my battery tender on my Optima Red top on my last Mustang. That battery lasted over 10 years, and the only reason I had to swap it out was because the neg terminal corroded loose.

There is no harm in keeping a battery in top condition.

Now, does a daily driven need a tender? On paper, no, but the way this software is, there is no guarantee of a parasitic drain or update failure due to a battery not having enough charge.

Just some thoughts....I'm going to keep doing what I do.
There is nothing wrong with doing what you do, but how do you know you have a parasitic drain if the battery is always charged? I am retired, so my Mustang isn't a daily driver and, because of the weather, often sits for a week or longer. I haven't as yet had any messages about the battery being low, but the Mustang has gone to sleep occasionally. Last week, I had it out and noticed the charge was at 13 volts. I called my wife and said I had to drive it to recharge it. She has no clue that 13 volts is fine, and I could have just put it on a trickle charge! I got to drive for another hour. Lucky me. Glenn
 


Gregs24

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There is nothing wrong with doing what you do, but how do you know you have a parasitic drain if the battery is always charged? I am retired, so my Mustang isn't a daily driver and, because of the weather, often sits for a week or longer. I haven't as yet had any messages about the battery being low, but the Mustang has gone to sleep occasionally. Last week, I had it out and noticed the charge was at 13 volts. I called my wife and said I had to drive it to recharge it. She has no clue that 13 volts is fine, and I could have just put it on a trickle charge! I got to drive for another hour. Lucky me. Glenn
The smart alternator / BMS will charge at anything between 14.5v and 13v depending on the state of charge. Once it approaches 80% SOC you will see the voltage drop. In addition it tends to charge more on the over-run and less when accelerating for efficiency.

When the vehicle is off the voltage should be between 12.3v and 12.6v. Below 12.3v and you will start getting the car going to sleep more quickly. Going to sleep however is completely normal after a week or so whatever the SOC when you switch off.

There can be occasions when a tender does mask a problem. I have had cars on tenders for years and on one occasion the battery had completely failed but looked OK on the tender. It started, I drove down the road to get fuel and then it wouldn't start again.
 

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I don't keep it on the Tender 100% of the time, but on average I only get out maybe twice a week. After a drive I wait about 3 days before hooking it up. I don't even have to check voltage, because I know how long the tender takes to top it off to a float if all is well.
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