Aussie S650 Paint protection and detailing thread

[DFB5.0]

Well, so much for the self imposed spending freeze!

Have fallen way behind with detailing both cars and still have plenty of products on hand.

And..... this arrived today from both Waxit and CCP, taking advantage of EOFY sales.

Except for NV Purge, the rest is new to me.

I plan to use the 4 x TRC Creature towels and TRC Pearl Puck applicator to apply the Collinite 845 wax. I hope these were a good choice.

Security camera screen grab, I did actually wash the RAV4 today.

I'm liking the Reload 2.0 already!
And I'll be glad to finish up this GSF, I doubt I'll be buying this again.

Mustang wash day tomorrow!

I think you chose well..............................

With the Creature, you have two sides. The short side is better at the initial wipe as it cuts through the wax residue a little easier. The plush side is good for that final pass. I use the Creature for polish removal, as well as wax/sealant removal.

I can't remember if you have used Collinite before, but for those who haven't -

- Less is more. Apply it sparingly, that bottle will last you 10 years.

- Applying thicker doesn't mean you have more protection, all of that extra wax just ends up in your towels and is harder to plough through on the initial wipe.

- Seeing as its winter, you may want to heat the bottle under running hot water to liquify the wax.

- This applies to any sealant or wax, but wash your towels ASAP. If you can't, throw them into a bucket of water with APC, high-pH soap or microfiber detergent until you can. Hydrophobic towels are a pain.

- You won't notice this as much on white or silver, but 845 can cause a hazy finish after 24-hours. This is normal and is removed at the next wash. This is the solvents within the wax rising to the surface and evaporating during the full curing process.

- You can also top 845 with a modern spray sealant such as NV Jet or Carpro Reload to extend the durability and boost the hydrophobics.

That probably sounds like it's all too much phaff to bother with. Actually, it's not, just a few points to consider. In my opinion, this is the best wax on the market for its combination of value, the slickness, the durability and............................that warm glow it creates.

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[5.0ALM]

I think you chose well..............................

With the Creature, you have two sides. The short side is better at the initial wipe as it cuts through the wax residue a little easier. The plush side is good for that final pass. I use the Creature for polish removal, as well as wax/sealant removal.

I can't remember if you have used Collinite before, but for those who haven't -

- Less is more. Apply it sparingly, that bottle will last you 10 years.

- Applying thicker doesn't mean you have more protection, all of that extra wax just ends up in your towels and is harder to plough through on the initial wipe.

- Seeing as its winter, you may want to heat the bottle under running hot water to liquify the wax.

- This applies to any sealant or wax, but wash your towels ASAP. If you can't, throw them into a bucket of water with APC, high-pH soap or microfiber detergent until you can. Hydrophobic towels are a pain.

- You won't notice this as much on white or silver, but 845 can cause a hazy finish after 24-hours. This is normal and is removed at the next wash. This is the solvents within the wax rising to the surface and evaporating during the full curing process.

- You can also top 845 with a modern spray sealant such as NV Jet or Carpro Reload to extend the durability and boost the hydrophobics.

That probably sounds like it's all too much phaff to bother with. Actually, it's not, just a few points to consider. In my opinion, this is the best wax on the market for its combination of value, the slickness, the durability and............................that warm glow it creates.

Noted!

It will be the first time using the 845 for me.

I did stumble across this, this morning.
Youtube was reading my mind!

Same suggestion of hot water, or leaving it out in the sun.




My first use of Reload 2.0 on the RAV4 today was limited to the exterior plastic trim pieces.
I was blissfully unaware it could be used on the paint as well.

I was originally planning on topping the 845 with Bead Maker, something I have always liked since the first use.
Another dilemma.

Which of those two would you suggest for gloss?

 

[DFB5.0]

My first use of Reload 2.0 on the RAV4 today was limited to the exterior plastic trim pieces.
I was blissfully unaware it could be used on the paint as well.

Reload was primarily designed to protect a freshly applied ceramic coating within the first 14-days as it fully cures. After that, it can then be used periodically to maintain the coating. You can also use Reload as a standalone sealant. My use of Reload on black plastic trim is somewhat off label, but it works so well. This is the response I got when I mentioned this in the Carpro Facebook group -

"Reload has a solvent that contains oil. Thus the darkening effect. Then you get 5% sio2 to help protect it. Most trim restorers are simply solvent and oil with some form of UV protection. So yes, Reload is very much like a lighter-weight trim coating with much less risk if the coating portion fails or produces undesirable results."

I was originally planning on topping the 845 with Bead Maker, something I have always liked since the first use.
Another dilemma.

Which of those two would you suggest for gloss?

Bead Maker all day long, not much can beat it for that warm glossy glow and supreme slickness. I've found that 845 and Bead Maker play well together as both are considered polymer sealants. Some people complain that it attracts dust, but on white paint, you aren't going to notice that. Like Reload, it can be used across every surface, from paint to trim, wheels to glass.

 

[DFB5.0]

Now that several of us have had their Mustang for nearly a year now, it's probably a good time for some leather care refreshment. Considering the cheapness of the materials Ford uses, keeping on top of the leather is probably a smart move.

The Good, Better, and Best of Leather Care –

A topic I’ve covered many times, leather care is a subject that I get quite “passionate” about. Why? Because most people do this all wrong. Without getting too in depth, the majority of detailing brands that sell a leather care product have no business providing such a product. Again, why? Because for the most part, these brands are simply selling products that do absolutely nothing at all for automotive leather, and in most cases, delivering a slick, greasy look and feel. Wrong. Wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong………………………..

When it comes to leather care, there are basically two components you need, a cleaner and a protectant. When choosing the right leather products, I prioritize companies that specifically account for the PU coated leather materials used in cars. Products that do this can penetrate that top coating, in turn actually providing a benefit rather than simply dressing the surface of the material, which just covers up the dirt they didn’t remove.

A couple of key things to consider when it comes to automotive leather –

- Usually, the part of the seat you sit on and the steering wheel are what they call split grain or PU coated leather.

- The remaining part of the seat, gear knob, handbrake cover, console lid and door trims are typically vinyl.

- This combination of coated leather and vinyl provides a blend of durability and longevity. True, natural grain leather is actually a poor choice for cars due to the extremes of heat and cold a vehicle interior is subjected to, not to mention it becoming brittle and wrinkled over time. True leather will not tolerate neglect, which will end up looking unsightly far quicker than the PU coated/vinyl combo.

- This blend of materials is common to all but the likes of Rolls Royce.

- Shiny leather is actually dirty leather.

- Please DON'T use all-purpose cleaner, it’s too alkaline for leather cleaning.

- I tend to recommend not applying a ceramic coating to leather, it's not needed or ideal.

- Avoid leather creams and balms, these are a pain to use and end up clogging up perforated sections of leather.

With that out of the way, the following products are what I consider to be the best available. All provide a smooth, clean, non-greasy matte finish. I’ve divided this into a good, better, best format to cater to all budgets and buying preferences. And while there are countless products on the market, I’ve included the following for simplicity, ease of use and the quality of the final result.

Good – Bowden’s Own

Bowden's offer two leather care products, which are easily their best offerings. I’ve included these here because they are freely available from most auto stores, including Repco and Supercheap, and offer a simplified approach.

Leather Love – A combined pH neutral leather cleaner and conditioner. I’ve been using this for years and like that it can be dialled up or down depending on the cleaning ability required. Used in a spray and wipe manner, Leather Love is a quick and easy way to maintain your leather surfaces. However, team it with a leather brush and you can ramp up the cleaning power. I also love the foaming spray head and natural finish it leaves behind. The following is key though -

“No harmful silicones, solvents, waxes or natural oils that can prevent top coated leather from being able to breathe and rehydrate.”

Leather Love V2

Leather Guard – While Leather Love is a 2-in-1 cleaner/protector product, Leather Guard can be used afterwards to boost the protection factor. This product provides UV blockers, contains no solvents or silicones, and will help reduce wear and tear caused by friction and abrasion. But this tag line is the key -

“It’s made to specifically look after all modern polyurethane, top coated leather. If your car is made after 1984, it will have this leather.”

Leather Guard would be applied after cleaning with Leather Love, just make sure the surface has fully dried. I spray the product into a foam or microfiber applicator and work it across the surfaces to be treated. A follow up wipe after a minute or two will level it off nicely. Bowden’s suggest using Leather Guard after every 2nd application of the Leather Love.

Leather Guard - Proper leather protection for modern leathers.

Better – NV Car Care

Like Bowdens, NV provide a two-pronged approach to leather. Actually, they also have a leather coating, but I recommend sticking with Cleanse and Nourish.

Cleanse – Not to be confused with Carpro Cleanse, which is a terrible product, NV Cleanse is a safe and effective foaming leather cleaner that also has some hydrating properties. Teamed with a brush, Cleanse lathers up beautifully and I like that its scent free.

Get NV Cleanse | Leather Cleaner Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

Nourish – Just like Bowdens Leather Guard, Nourish is a simple spray and wipe application that delivers a matte finish with a very mild artificial leather aroma. No massaging a sticky lotion, no slickness, no greasy look and feel. I’ve found leather treated with Nourish to possess a lovely smooth, soft feel.

Get NV Nourish | Leather QD | Online | Waxit – Waxit Car Care

(Note – My bottles of Cleanse and Nourish are from when they were labelled Concours Car Care, the precursor to NV.)

Best - ColourLock

Where the two brands above sell leather care products as part of a wider detailing range, ColourLock are purely focused on leather and leather-like materials. And that counts for a lot in my book. Being dedicated to leather care, you do trade off some of the simplicity for a more tailored approach to cleaning and protecting. But once you know the system, its super easy and rewarding to use.

Mild and Strong Leather Cleaner – I think you want a bottle of both, the Mild is great for maintaining, while the Strong with its slightly higher pH is great for resetting slick/neglected leather. Both are foaming products, again helping it stay active for longer. I would team it with the dedicated ColourLock brush for best results.

Leather Shield – This is a friction, abrasion and dye transfer blocker designed to be used within the first 3 years of life, meaning this is the product for our new Mustangs. As the product goes down, you may note it being quite shiny, however once levelled with a towel, you are left with a smooth matte finish that is completely dry to touch.

Leather Protector – This product is used after the first three years, designed to penetrate and feed leather as it ages. Like Shield, Protector will go down quite wet and glossy, but that dissipates as it dries. Again, I really like the soft, matte finish and the lack of scent. If desired, you can also apply Shield over the top of Protector, just make sure you’ve allowed Protector enough time to fully absorb and dry.

ColourLock is available from The Detail Store, or direct –

Colourlock – The Detail Store
Colourlock leather repair, cleaning & conditioning products | COLOURLOCK Australia

Wildcards -

Koch Chemie Pol Star and Leather Star are two excellent products for leather. Because of their formulation and bottle size, these would be a more economical option for those doing a lot of leather and interior cleaning.

Pol Star - This a dilutable interior cleaner with a focus on fabric, Alcantara and leather. I like this because its pH neutral, which is unlike most interior cleaners. Pol Star lathers up nicely, and will also foam if used with the appropriate bottle. Scent free.

Koch Chemie (PO) Pol Star | Textile, Leather and Alcantara Cleaner – Waxit Car Care

Leather Star - This is a leather conditioner that can actually penetrate the top layer and benefit the natural leather underneath. A runny liquid, its easily applied and offers excellent coverage. For me, I find it too glossy, however, if you like that pronounced before and after look, this is the conditioner to use.

Koch Chemie (LS) Leather Star | Deep Care for Leather 1L – Waxit Car Care

Tools & Acessories -

There is a huge variety of cleaning tools, applicators and towels on the market that can be used for leather care. For simplicity, I’ve saved you the trial and error and can recommend the following, which can be teamed with any of the above products -

Brushes – For leather, you want a soft to medium stiffness brush. I use either the Maxshine or ColourLock versions.

Towels – For interior work in general, I use the TRC Car Wash Towel, which I find a nice size for this area of the car. The Edgeless 365 or Creature would be good choices too.

Applicators – For leather, I really like the medium sized finger mitts from Carpro, mainly because they offer a nice blend of size and ergonomics. You could also use a foam or microfiber wax applicator.

How To Use –

The following process is universal to all the above products –

1A - Working in manageable sections, apply the cleaning product into your brush and begin lightly agitating the surface. The foaming type products are nice here because the cleaner will stay suspended in the bristles for extended working time.

1B - If the leather isn’t too dirty, you can apply the product into your towel and use it in a spray and wipe manner.

2 – Using a clean towel, wipe away the product residue. Inspect and repeat if needed.

3 - Continue until you have cleaned each section of the car (seats, door trims, console, steering wheel ect). I clean leather and vinyl using the same process and product.

4 - With the surfaces completely dry, apply the chosen conditioner into an applicator, then work it over the surface. You can work larger sections here.

5 - Allow the conditioner some time to dwell, then level down with a clean, dry towel.

Final Thoughts -

How often you clean and protect leather will come down to vehicle usage. For garage queens, you would do this every 9 - 12 months. For regularly driven or daily drivers, you would drop that down to about every 3 - 6 months. The key is to not leave it until the leather has a sheen or greasy feel, which means you can use less aggression during the cleaning phase.

 

[xrs]

I just ordered Colourlock Leathershield last week, they phoned me up and told me I need to clean it first, as Leathshield is expensive with postage, I paused for a moment then though ok before I Leathershield, they have informed my I need to clean it, ok I said to myself, I have Leather Love which I use, my problem is I have never protected just cleaned it, so now I will, so I told them I am ok for a cleaner I don't need to purchase one thanks. So i am going with DFB5.0's Good Cleaner with the Best Protection, now I need a brush lol.

 

[5.0ALM]

Coincidentally, I ordered some NV Nourish recently to take advantage of EOFY sales.
Glad to see that's in the "better" category!

For the initial cleaning stage I went with P&S Xpress, because it was more universal, and suggested in D's "Little Black Book" on 6G as being suitable for leather as well.
This document has become my bible reference. (Which was last updated November 2024 - hint hint!)

I did look at the ColourLock brand items, but TBH, In didn't understand their "system", so I moved on.

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