Any car wire expert here who knows how to tap from wires?

[GrabThatBlue]

Okay so here we go to the next step. The step that I was afraid to be in, but unfortunately I have no choice.
My GT Premium with 401A package and Recaro seats do not have DDM and PDM and I can't get the turn signals to work on the side mirror.

Now the only option for me to get turn signals working on the side mirror, is to tap the turn signal wire from the front or from the back of the car.
Logically it seems easier and a shorter way to tap the turn signals from the front.
The front has turn signals in the headlights and also the small bulbs in the grill work as turn signals.

I'm 0% into wiring, but I'm open to learn a step by step guide on how to do it. Not to do it myself, but to advice the mechanic on how to do it.
It sounds maybe stupid, to advice a mechanic while I don't know nothing about tapping wires, but I'm in a different position as many of you guys.
I live on an island without a Ford dealership and also without many car garage choices.
I live on an island where people always tell you that they can do it, they will never turn a job down, just to make money and I can't blame them, because people are very poor here. But the risk to ruin my car is too high.
Because of this reason, I don't want to experiment with my brand new Mustang and give it to somebody who might burn my car down.

If anybody can make time and give me a step by step guide on how to do it on this Mustang, I might give it a chance and find a mechanic and show him the guide on how to do it.

I would like to tap the wire from the turn signals in the grill. You know, those small marker lights hidden in the grill. And if there is any possibility to tap a wire without removing the front bumper, that would help me a lot.

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[rbeyer]

You can buy wire tap connectors (also called splicers) that make this pretty easy, but I'd splurge and try to find some high quality water resistant ones or shrink wrap them as they have a tendency to cause the wire to corrode especially since the blades in them are a dissimilar metal.

 

[GrabThatBlue]

You can buy wire tap connectors (also called splicers) that make this pretty easy, but I'd splurge and try to find some high quality water resistant ones or shrink wrap them as they have a tendency to cause the wire to corrode especially since the blades in them are a dissimilar metal.

And do you know what panels, car parts I have to remove to get the wire hidden?

Tapping it from the rear lights or front lights? What's easier and what are the pros and cons?

Do I need to remove the whole door, rear bumper/front bumper to add the wire?

Do I have to splice the wire from the fuse box, or straight from the headlights or rear lights?

 

[smurfslayer]

A few words of caution.
modern car wiring harnesses use very, very thin conduit - think 22 or 24 gauge multi strand. It is very easy to cause damage to a harness if you don’t know what you’re doing or if you use the wrong things. Pinch connectors and vampire connectors are 2 that come to mind. They can work and be fine but they can also damage the strands in the conduit, creating more resistance, heat and some worst case scenarios lead to unusual behavior.

Electrical problems are among the worst to track down in a vehicle, as they can often lead to poor running conditions which we can mistake for mechanical issues.

Whatever you choose, get a clean trim of the wire insulation. Make sure you have a clean splice, no broken strands! The factory like connectors work really well at getting a good contact and securing it so the circuit doesn’t introduce more resistance. So do properly done twisted conduit and wire nuts in some cases but I wouldn’t do that with wiring this fragile.

Lastly, when you get into the factory harness be sure you know what you’re splicing into and what is on the circuit. When I wired in the reverse / chase lights on my Raptor, I first tried to get power from the bed lights. I figured, hey, they’re only 3.2a total, and I don’t see that much on this circuit.
They worked ! Yay me.
Then they went out, along with my revers lights, 3rd brake light and cabin lights. hmm...
15 minutes verifying no fuses were busted.
10 more minutes because there has to be a fuse busted.
10 minutes of internet searching to find that there’s probably a DTC on ( I think it was the BCM ).
15 more minutes to grab the Windoze laptop, renew my forscan license, and
Boom. DTC found, cleared and lights work again.

It took me half that time to make a battery home run to get relay power.

Remember: Only YOU can prevent Mustang fires.

 

[GrabThatBlue]

A few words of caution.
modern car wiring harnesses use very, very thin conduit - think 22 or 24 gauge multi strand. It is very easy to cause damage to a harness if you don’t know what you’re doing or if you use the wrong things. Pinch connectors and vampire connectors are 2 that come to mind. They can work and be fine but they can also damage the strands in the conduit, creating more resistance, heat and some worst case scenarios lead to unusual behavior.

Electrical problems are among the worst to track down in a vehicle, as they can often lead to poor running conditions which we can mistake for mechanical issues.

Whatever you choose, get a clean trim of the wire insulation. Make sure you have a clean splice, no broken strands! The factory like connectors work really well at getting a good contact and securing it so the circuit doesn’t introduce more resistance. So do properly done twisted conduit and wire nuts in some cases but I wouldn’t do that with wiring this fragile.

Lastly, when you get into the factory harness be sure you know what you’re splicing into and what is on the circuit. When I wired in the reverse / chase lights on my Raptor, I first tried to get power from the bed lights. I figured, hey, they’re only 3.2a total, and I don’t see that much on this circuit.
They worked ! Yay me.
Then they went out, along with my revers lights, 3rd brake light and cabin lights. hmm...
15 minutes verifying no fuses were busted.
10 more minutes because there has to be a fuse busted.
10 minutes of internet searching to find that there’s probably a DTC on ( I think it was the BCM ).
15 more minutes to grab the Windoze laptop, renew my forscan license, and
Boom. DTC found, cleared and lights work again.

It took me half that time to make a battery home run to get relay power.

Remember: Only YOU can prevent Mustang fires.

I'm totally dependent on garages here on the island. I just asked a garage that add lights to police vehicles. They just did wires for a Dodge Charger. I hope they follow all safety things. Don't want to mess up my cae just by adding turn signals. So that's why I'm going to use all information you guys advice me and pass it down to the garage so they will know what to do.

You scared me.

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