If it was leaded you may have fouled the sensors, hopefully the cats are OK, but don't run it until the system is fully drained. Might be an expensive experiment.
Water is wet, fire is hot, ice is cold.... I was hoping for something like discovering the 2026 have an under body panel with a filter access hole, guess I'll keep dreaming...
Here's my take...
Yes, we share a lot with the 550's, and they've been around a while, but there are some differences in our cars that are worth talking about. Take the BBQ tick for example, we have a 4th Gen Coyote, and while it's the same issue, we didn't know until people started sharing...
The dealer will fix it for free, but certainly will start looking into something better. DSS are a little overkill for what I need at the moment, but the 350 axles are an option if this happens again, or isn't covered under warranty.
Put the car up on blocks to do the suspension mods and when I took off the driver's side rear wheel I noticed a lot of grease flung around. Now have to put it back on the ground and drop it off at the dealer, hopefully a quick fix. 5500 miles on the clock, don't do burn outs or track time.
Luckily my garage door is 20' wide (another screw up, I wanted a double door but they put in 2 8' doors, I had them cut the center out but it required an extra wide door).
My F-150 extended cab absolutely will not fit, my Explorer ST will fit it I put the bumper right up against the steps.
Unfortunately when I built the house I was preoccupied with all the other details that I didn't pay attention to the depth of the garage. It'll fit the long way if I take everything out of the back right part in the picture and park right up against the wall...
Live and learn I guess. Also some...
Lock status LED, to me that sounds like the little LED light that they put in the door where the manual lock pin would have been (the post you pulled up on in older cars to unlock). There's an LED (faint) in it's place, check if the one in your driver's side door is working.
Thanks, solved that problem but I've been trying to contact @Form Lighting for two weeks and haven't gotten any reply. I'd at least like to get on the list for the new connector...
I bought the @Form Lighting reverse light from Steeda which didn't mention compatibility issues, but apparently Ford uses two different connector sets for the taillights and of course mine are the "type B" style. The harness that Form sends with the light is TypeA only.
I tried contacting Form...
You can buy wire tap connectors (also called splicers) that make this pretty easy, but I'd splurge and try to find some high quality water resistant ones or shrink wrap them as they have a tendency to cause the wire to corrode especially since the blades in them are a dissimilar metal.