2024 GT premium not starting

[Rubys650]

Providing an update on my vehicle being taken in for service today. The dealer tested the battery in my car, and confirmed a bad battery. New battery is installed, and all appears well.

Thanks for the update! Glad to hear they confirmed.

Did you have any other electrical issues? Prior to the starting issue last night I’ve noticed the Apple CarPlay flickering and occasionally a short/screech/interference through the sounds system. For example, when I turn the volume up/down or click a button while the radio is on an electrical screech comes through the speakers. This happens at least once on every drive. Alternatively, when I switch the exhaust from normal to track, I sometimes get the same sound.

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[Luckybob2485]

Thanks for the update! Glad to hear they confirmed.

Did you have any other electrical issues? Prior to the starting issue last night I’ve noticed the Apple CarPlay flickering and occasionally a short/screech/interference through the sounds system. For example, when I turn the volume up/down or click a button while the radio is on an electrical screech comes through the speakers. This happens at least once on every drive. Alternatively, when I switch the exhaust from normal to track, I sometimes get the same sound.

I haven’t experienced any of the issues you have, but yes, I started having other weird electrical behaviors. My driver side window/lock controls weren’t consistently working. Also, whenever I raised the driver window up, it would then automatically come back down.

 

[Dena]

Thanks for your post dusman59. I had no idea that my 20+ yr old charger was damaging the battery. I'll buy the correct charger today! I've charged twice so far for a few hours @ 10 A.

"...voltage greater than 15 volts can overheat an AGM and generate enough pressure to pop its safety valve. That one-way valve is supposed to relieve excess pressure from the harmless gases that come when a battery’s charging. Too much voltage becomes too much pressure, and pop. Without an airtight seal, an AGM will dry out in hours. Then you’re in the market for a new AGM battery." - Interstate Batteries

If you charged for a few hours at 10 amp, that isn't enough to damage a battery. Granted for maximum batter life you should use the correct charge cycle but 10s amp isn't enough power to overheat the battery. It's about the same amount of heat an old style 100 watt bulb generates. That's why I suggest the 10 amp setting as a higher setting generates more heat and may not do quite as good of job reversing sulfating.
What is probably happening is your battery was near the end because it needed a charge. There are times when you leave something turned on but most of the time if a battery needs a charge the battery isn't long for this world.

 

[Decio]

If you charged for a few hours at 10 amp, that isn't enough to damage a battery. Granted for maximum batter life you should use the correct charge cycle but 10s amp isn't enough power to overheat the battery. It's about the same amount of heat an old style 100 watt bulb generates. That's why I suggest the 10 amp setting as a higher setting generates more heat and may not do quite as good of job reversing sulfating.
What is probably happening is your battery was near the end because it needed a charge. There are times when you leave something turned on but most of the time if a battery needs a charge the battery isn't long for this world.

Thanks Dena. I threw the cover over my convertible about 10 weeks ago and disabled as many vampire features as I could find to turn off. I won't start it up again until April unless March in New England is above average nice.

I have charged the battery at the end of Nov. & Dec. and my Schumacher analog needle had the battery at 50% both times. All the car did was sit in the driveway.

I got a deal (maybe) at Walmart on a NOCO GENIUS10 for $79.99 this morning, so I'll be using that at the end of the month. Hopefully it lasts as long as my Schumacher from the '90s or my Sears DieHard from the '80's.

 

[Dena]

All I know is my wifes Explorer kills batteries about once every 13-14 months- driven daily
I have had it into the dealer like 6 times trying to figure out why batteries dont last

No one can give me an answer- I know different car but I get the same symptoms when the battery gets low- warning lights exc. I have given up and now just look at replacing the battery every 12 months for $300 is normal maintenance

My wife loves the car - and I have been a Ford person all my life- but Im not happy

Problems like that shouldn't be that difficult to find. A volt meter is all you need but a digital volt meter is easer for somebody starting. Auto part stores have some cheap ones that are good to start with. You need a 15 volt range to look for the problem.
After driving for a while, don't shut the vehicle off but open the hood and check the voltage while the engine is running. You should see about 13.5 to 14 volts. A higher number means the battery is being over charged and you're boiling the acid out of the batteries. A lower voltage indicates the battery is undercharged and the battery will sulfate. Both indicate a charging problem and you probably need the voltage regulator replaced.
If that doesn't show a problem, leave the vehicle off for a few days but check the voltage a couple of times a day. Use the table to determine if the battery charge is dropping.
100% - 12.7 volts or more
95% - 12.6 volts
90% - 12.5 volts.
80% - 12.42 volts
70% - 12.32 volts
60% - 12.2 volts
50% - 12.06 volts
40% - 11.9 volts
If you see the voltage dropping, there is drain that's running the battery down. Lead Acid batteries have a limited number of cycles so the more they cycle, the shorter the life. It should take close to a month for half the charge to drain so if the battery drops much over a few days, something is clearly running it down. Hint, if you have cell pone charger, GPS or something else plugged in, that could cause a problem. Make sure when you put the car away, everything is unplugged.
Last which you probably can't do anything about, I just saw a Dodge Pickup with a dead battery and that battery was 7 years old, well beyond normal battery life. I noticed that it was encased in a blanket which would insulate it from the engine heat. Batteries last longer when they are kept under 100 degrees and unfortunately most batteries aren't placed in the best location.

 

[MIZStang]

I have about 2400 miles on my gt premium. Just went outside to start it and it wouldn’t even crank. All the exterior and interior lights come on. The dash and infotainment system come on and are littered with warning and service lights. Tried starting it with the fob, then FordPass, and it partially cranks. I have seen other posts about this but am wondering if anyone has been able to fix it? Any ideas of what to do in the short term to get it running?

Happened to me too with less than 200 miles on the car and within the first week of ownership. Was built in September and purchased in December. Dealer replaced the battery. Fine so far.

 

[Ishyne22]

Problems like that shouldn't be that difficult to find. A volt meter is all you need but a digital volt meter is easer for somebody starting. Auto part stores have some cheap ones that are good to start with. You need a 15 volt range to look for the problem.
After driving for a while, don't shut the vehicle off but open the hood and check the voltage while the engine is running. You should see about 13.5 to 14 volts. A higher number means the battery is being over charged and you're boiling the acid out of the batteries. A lower voltage indicates the battery is undercharged and the battery will sulfate. Both indicate a charging problem and you probably need the voltage regulator replaced.
If that doesn't show a problem, leave the vehicle off for a few days but check the voltage a couple of times a day. Use the table to determine if the battery charge is dropping.
100% - 12.7 volts or more
95% - 12.6 volts
90% - 12.5 volts.
80% - 12.42 volts
70% - 12.32 volts
60% - 12.2 volts
50% - 12.06 volts
40% - 11.9 volts
If you see the voltage dropping, there is drain that's running the battery down. Lead Acid batteries have a limited number of cycles so the more they cycle, the shorter the life. It should take close to a month for half the charge to drain so if the battery drops much over a few days, something is clearly running it down. Hint, if you have cell pone charger, GPS or something else plugged in, that could cause a problem. Make sure when you put the car away, everything is unplugged.
Last which you probably can't do anything about, I just saw a Dodge Pickup with a dead battery and that battery was 7 years old, well beyond normal battery life. I noticed that it was encased in a blanket which would insulate it from the engine heat. Batteries last longer when they are kept under 100 degrees and unfortunately most batteries aren't placed in the best location.

Has anyone tested for parasitic draw on these problem vehicles and compared them to the manufacturers acceptable numbers? If its not a bad batch of batteries there may be a bug in one of the computers not shutting down a component in the system.

 

[steveo1960]

Has anyone tested for parasitic draw on these problem vehicles and compared them to the manufacturers acceptable numbers? If its not a bad batch of batteries there may be a bug in one of the computers not shutting down a component in the system.

Aside from bad batteries, that was my thought as well. New cars have modules everywhere and while most of them are designed to go to sleep after a certain amount of time, maybe some are not causing a parasitic drain. Just a theory.

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