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I guess I should have asked rather than assuming based on the photos in your opening post. Did the bolt go in hard and break before going in all the way, or was it in all the way and just over tightened? Based on the photos, it appears that it broke before it was all the way in.

Unfortunately, the threads in the hole are probably already damaged to the point of not being salvageable. If they weren't already damaged, the bolt should not have broke. Start with something like 1/4" and go all the way through the bolt, then you can go up to the final size. A 3/8's drill...

Walk away lock is kind of hit or miss I think. It seems to work for some, but not for others. I was going to try it, but Forscan wouldn't show all of the required addresses when connected to my car. A few others that might not be listed but have been discussed on the forum: Welcome and...

Since the bolt is metric, it is actually going to be 10.9 or better. The number should be stamped right into the head of the bolt. Comparatively speaking however, 10.9 is generally considered the metric equivalent to SAE grade 8. As far as recommendations for an EZ-out, sorry, I don't have...

Personally I’ve never had very good luck with ez-outs. Sometimes they will work fairly well for a bolt that broke after being correctly installed, but for something that is most likely cross threaded and broke because it was over torqued trying to put it in or get it out; an ez-out is probably...

Nah. Ask your mom what I’m like when I’m worked up. Cute picture though. Did you draw it in art class today?

Guess I need to re-check mine... Last I looked, I was right at 4" on the Sport Progressives.

🎆Spectatorialy!🎆

When they're going in hard, it's the backing out that usually ends up breaking them. So, when they say to try an EZ-Out, don't! The bolt itself, is hard enough. You do not want to drill through tool hardening.

Who's worked up? You do realize that, TECHNICALLY, everything from 5.0 to 5.099999999999 is 5.0, right? So exactly which fake badges are you referring to? Oh! Must be the ones where Ford called the 302 a 5.0 when it's really just a 4.948. But, if you round the 8 up, the 4 becomes a 5, and if...

Judging by the placement of your jack stand there, I would wager that the hole was not misaligned from the factory. Rather it was the jack stand causing things to shift with the weight of the front end on it once the bolts were removed. Regardless, you're in a bit of a pickle there. Warranty...

Just trying to sort out where the 'technicalities' regarding engine displacement actually begin and end. I figure I'm gonna hold off on asking about the technicalities of gear ratio's until I have my head completely wrapped around displacement. 👍 Right? How dare I have an opinion that...

Hmm...not sure what to tell you there. I didn't even bother trying to contact them. The item showed in stock so I just ordered it. Got a confirmation email and they shipped within a couple of days.

I went out, grabbed a handful, and am chewing on it now. But since we've devolved into attacking each others opinions already.. Just because they've always done something doesn't mean I can't think that it is stupid or appalling when they insist on labeling it as something it isn't. You're...

Well, to each his own I guess. If we had been saying '307' for 60yrs, '302' would seem strange. The reason they were called 302's is because that was the actual engine displacement. To me, slapping '302' on the side of this thing (because of lineage), is just as stupid and appalling as...

So, does their 302 series have nothing to do with the actual engine size? Having something like a Boss 302 was cool when the 5.0L it came with was in fact a 302 c.i.d. engine. Labeling a 7th gen car, with a 4th gen Coyote, as a '302', not so much IMO. Aside from that, it's pretty good looking.

I should have gotten back to this after I received and installed the Kenny Brown rails... Side by side comparison with the Steeda full length rails. Steeda on the left, KB on the right. Steeda's rails are just simple square tubing and despite being capped off on the ends and having rubber...

5k miles and no issues despite being lowered with the Dark Horse Handling pack splitter. I have a whopping 4" of clearance!

Ah okay. That's the part I was missing. So the PAAK box is coming 'blank' and has to be told how to talk to the vehicle before it is able to be added as a key; and the programmer is taking care of that step when it's being added to the PATS on the vehicle it seems. It's starting to sound like...

Thanks for all the info! I read through the f150 thread about it as well and saw that you weren't able to get it programmed through the normal (Ford) process of adding a new fob, but then looking at a few of the videos on programming it really seems like that should have worked. I'm curious if...